The best way to describe this mod is that your fogs will come on with the lights the way the normally with (when your fog switch is left on) and when your brights are activated your fogs do NOT turn off. The fogs will NOT come on w/o your headlights and therefore you don't have to remember to turn them off like the other version of this mod that uses a jumper wire. So the difference is that mod will allow you to run your fog lights at ANY time but you also need to remember to turn it off when you don't want them on.
I did a search and couldn't find anything other than the 'Fogs on Anytime Mod' which isn't what I wanted. I wanted my fog lights to stay on when I turn my bright lights on because I have HIDs for the fogs and didn't want them turning on and off all the time. Be warned, with this mod you are hard-wiring the low-beam circuit to stay on all the time. This means when you turn on your brights you will also still have your low beams on as well as your fogs. The result: much more light when you need it (good) but it also means you will have somewhere around 180 watts on the circuit (bad). That being said, it should be able to handle it just fine but proceed at your own risk as neither I nor TW is responsible for your modifications to your truck. Now, let's proceed...
1) Locate your fuse box under your hood net to the battery (pic 1) and find the low beam relay (pic 2 & 3) which is clearly marked under the cover
2) Remove the relay carefully (I used plastic pry tools) as it's in there good
3) Connect the two tabs pictured somehow (soldering is ideal but you can use a small solid core wire so long as it doesn't make contact with any of the others)
That's it. Three simple steps. Pretty simple really. The hardest part is getting the relay out of the fuse box. The cover is somewhat fragile so gripping tools like pliers don't work real well and for most trucks you won't be able to just rock it back and forth while pulling up. You really need something to wedge under a bottom edge and pry upward and I recommend something non-conductive so you don't make contact with anything underneath. I used the leg off of a toasted capacitor because it was easiest to work with being rigid and made for soldering but you can use just about anything conductive you have laying around to keep the cost on this mod free. Just make sure that if you use a wire solid core is best or if you use braided wire you want to make sure you have no stray wires that can make contact with any of the other tabs or anything else.
Here's the pictures: