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Just bought an '09....maintenance tips?

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Old 04-15-2012, 05:08 AM   #1
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Just bought an '09....maintenance tips?

hello all!

I have done some searching but cannot really find what I am looking for.

I just bought a 2009 Tacoma Double cab, 4x4 SR5 4.0 V6 with 34k on it.

With my previous vehicles there have been typical things to keep an eye on, or maintain to keep the vehicle in top shape.

(For example, I used to have a BMW and the cooling system was the weak link so once it hit a certain mileage I just replaced everything before anything bad happened)

Are there any specifics I should keep an eye on in these trucks once it gets some miles?

Any tips or advice would be great!

PS: I love the truck so far!
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Old 04-15-2012, 05:34 AM   #2
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Hey Ben.

Change the rear end oil and the transmission with synthetic oil asap.
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Old 04-15-2012, 05:43 AM   #3
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Download the toyota maintenance manual and see if the work has been done. The 30k interval is a fair amount of work. See if the former owner has done the work. Also, go to mytoyota.com, create an account and enter the VIN. With this info you'll be able to see any recorded maintenance that's been done on the truck.
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Old 04-15-2012, 05:48 AM   #4
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here is a great link that will answer most if not all your questions:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/
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Old 04-15-2012, 06:31 AM   #5
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Thanks so much, great info guys!
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Old 04-15-2012, 06:47 AM   #6
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awesome! the dealer i bought the truck from had no maintenance history, i was able to pull everything up and save it on my computer from the toyota website!

also, are there issues with the tranny and rear diff? why does these trucks need synthetic?
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Old 04-15-2012, 07:08 AM   #8
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Follow the manual.

As an immediate item, check the spark plugs. They're supposed to be changed every 30k, and people often get lazy about them, especially if they're selling the truck. If the previous owner doesn't have record of them being serviced, you may want to change them out to be safe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sevencities View Post
also, are there issues with the tranny and rear diff? why does these trucks need synthetic?
They don't. As a matter of fact, the differentials tend to do better with dino fluids (Lucas Oil is probably best). Synthetic won't hurt anything, but offers little benefit and costs more.

Rear diff issues are only present on the TRD Offroad models, and only when you're pushing them. You'll be fine.
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Old 04-15-2012, 09:33 AM   #9
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Man, you guys bring great answers and quickly!

Thanks all!


I do not see anything on the service history about spark plugs being replaced. I will probably have that done next weekend.
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Old 04-15-2012, 09:39 AM   #10
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safe bet and insurance just do everything.

front diff, t-case (if applicable), rear diff , change the motor oil

look at the cabin filter as well as the engine filter, do a transmission fluid change, check/change the spark plugs
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Old 04-15-2012, 10:39 AM   #11
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gotcha, excellent advice.

i changed the oil this morning. I will have somebody change the front/rear axle fluid along with tranny.

i will do the spark plugs next weekend.

I read about the TSB for the tranny shifting. From what I understand...I should have until 87K miles to have this service done without having to pay correct?
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Old 04-15-2012, 10:47 AM   #12
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Cabin air filter, air filter, plugs. You can inspect your throttle body and clean if necessary, if it looks dirty, if you do clean it, may as well spray the MAF sensor.

Replace f/r diff fluid, and t-case fluid. You can do it all yourself, just get a hand pump, and some basic tools, 1/2 breaker bar and a 24mm socket and a 10mm hex socket IIRC.

Guess my post is a bit redundant but I'm telling you with the exception of the transmission, maybe, you can change everything on your own!
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Old 04-15-2012, 11:43 AM   #13
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OP has an auto tranny. Why a change at 34k?
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Old 04-15-2012, 11:50 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sevencities View Post
I will have somebody change the front/rear axle fluid along with tranny.
Please don't. Tranny servicing has a few extra steps, but changing the axles is LESS complex than changing the engine oil. There's no filter. Save some cash and handle that yourself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by iroh View Post
OP has an auto tranny. Why a change at 34k?

Why wouldn't you? The most important thing to keep auto trannies alive is to keep the fluid pink. Toyota recommends every 60k. I'll be doing it every 30k myself. Less chance for something to go wrong.
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Old 04-15-2012, 11:54 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jandrews View Post


They don't. As a matter of fact, the differentials tend to do better with dino fluids (Lucas Oil is probably best). Synthetic won't hurt anything, but offers little benefit and costs more.
Only with rear mechanical LSD's. Every other kind of diff has no issue with synthetic.

He doesn't have that so I'd throw in Synthetic. Why not.
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Old 04-15-2012, 12:06 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jandrews View Post
Please don't. Tranny servicing has a few extra steps, but changing the axles is LESS complex than changing the engine oil. There's no filter. Save some cash and handle that yourself.

Sounds good.


Why wouldn't you? The most important thing to keep auto trannies alive is to keep the fluid pink. Toyota recommends every 60k. I'll be doing it every 30k myself. Less chance for something to go wrong.
My thoughts also. It cant hurt!
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Old 04-15-2012, 12:28 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krazie Sj View Post
Only with rear mechanical LSD's. Every other kind of diff has no issue with synthetic.

He doesn't have that so I'd throw in Synthetic. Why not.

Have a chat with the guys at Easy Coast Gear. They've cracked and re-geared hundreds of Tacoma diffs.

Royal Purple seems to cause excessive gear wear. Mobil 1 Synthetic seems to have no disadvantage, but it also has no advantage and costs more, so why use it?

Dino seems to stick to the gears a bit better, and Lucas is what they recommend. Being that they've got far more experience with Taco gears than anyone on here, I go with their word.
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Old 04-15-2012, 01:08 PM   #18
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I'd be curious as to what excessive wear looks like compared to regular wear. Seriously, not being a dick, I'm actually interested.
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Old 04-15-2012, 01:13 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krazie Sj View Post
I'd be curious as to what excessive wear looks like compared to regular wear. Seriously, not being a dick, I'm actually interested.
See the light colored groove where the patina has worn off:



That was just a quick google. The signs are the usual: Discoloration, deformation out of spec.

Synthetic is awesome shit for engines because engines need oil to flow, and to wiggle into tiny tolerances in bearings and such. It's not as big a deal in gears. All the hardware is half-immersed in the oil bath all the time, so spinning it lubes everything up with a dunk just fine. With gears, especially during hard use, you want the oil to *stick* to the gear surface, which is where dino's less-consistent flow characteristics may actually help.
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Old 04-15-2012, 04:13 PM   #20
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Most line-haul truck manufacturers will suggest synthetic lube now-a-days. Most fleets use syn lube as well. Though we're talking about much larger trucks, the principle is the same with gearing. They also see much more abuse and many more miles than most of our trucks ever will.

Typically with syn lube you're looking at higher range of temp tolerances, resistance to throw off, and better boundary lubrication (film between gears). Theres more advantages as well.

When you see wear on a diff, it could be abnormal or it could be just worn out.

Surface or case hardening of gear teeth surfaces can be used to maximize wear characteristics, provide good surface stability and reduce backlash. Surface hardening is a material processing technique for increasing the (Rockwell) hardness of gear teeth surface. Surface hardening normally involves introducing carbon (at high temperature) into a low carbon steel thereby increasing the hardness for a thin material layer around the part. The purpose is to improve the wear characteristics of the gear teeth. The process for hardening is usually done after heat treat. Surface (case) hardening processes should be examined closely as there is a potential to induce hydrogen embrittlement in the material. It is important that the surface hardening process does not affect the heat treat and material properties of the base metal. Two methods for gear teeth hardening are carburization (carbon is introduced into the material surface) and nitriding (nitrogen is introduced into the material surface). Other surface hardening methods exist.

Sometimes gear teeth will be worn through the hardness and then you know they need to be replaced. Contaminated and inadequate lube will also lead to other types of wear like spalling and pitting.

How many wear induced failures have we seen on this board? Most are stress failures, shock loading etc... I think really if you just keep your oil changed at regular intervals (and extended intervals for syn) you'll be fine. However, with more extreme use of your truck, towing and severe off-roading (especially the desert guys) you're probably better off with a good synthetic.

Just my .02

edit: here are some wear patterns
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/an...opic13882.html
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