brake pedal goes to the floor

LOL!!!!

 

i dont bench bleed either.

but i go in knowing that it will be that much more effort. it takes more time and more fluid. i think you just need to revisit it more.

i use the Motive on my other car. it is like a fertilizer sprayer. i have not tried it for the tacoma..if they have a lid adapter..i am in!

 

It could be a very tiny leak just about anywhere in the system and may not even be visible via fluid coming out. Look closely at any and all areas that you've changed or replaced. Tighten down the fittings again.... Yours seem to go down faster - so you may see/find some oil seepage.

Did you check the resevoir before & after you pressed the brakes (while truck is off)? Are you actually loosing fluid or not?

Since you had the master cylinder off - there may be a method of bleeding the ABS.... but I'm not exactly sure what that is for the truck. My husbands Acura MDX bleeds can be bled simply by forcing the ABS to pulsate. ??

Since you had similar symptoms prior to the MC change - I would do a thorough inspection of the entire brake system/lines including calipers, pistons, all hard lines, etc. Look for any signs of fluid/wetness.

 

i just ordered a set of stainless brake lines for the front and the rear just in case. guess i will take the M/C back off and bech bleed when i recieve the lines.

i am also going to go back through the system and start over. i bought this truck with the brake problem and have been trying to fix ever since. i replaced the shoes but not the drums first and adjusted them. next i replaced the front pads but not the rotors while doing this i found a broken bleeder valve on pass. front caliper. got it out with an ease out and replaced with a bleeder i found local not the same as the others but the treads fit. lastly i replaced the M/C.

 

may end up having to replace that caliper?? not sure but it sounds like you would be pushing air from some other place though if it is coming out the rear lines. like others have said follow the hardlines all the way down. and if all else fails let me know and ill lend you my stock rear lines to test out while you wait on the SS lines to get here.

 

hey justin sent u a pm

 

u sure? i didnt get it...

 

Yup. I can resend

 

bake update
checked the system for leaks and found none. replaced all flex lines with s.s. lines. bled the whole system.
bake pedal still has to be pushed to the floor to get good brakes. if i jam on the pedal really fast the truck will brake and pull to the left and then brakes fade pedal goes all the way to the floor and the truck will stop. also noticed while doing this that the right front caliper makes a sound after the brakes have been released like it is not fully releasing.
What to do? try a new caliper or what?

 

Just had a similar problem. Brake pedal went to the floor. Brought the truck to a local mechanic who was reluctant to replace the master cylinder because he thought it might not fix the problem. I have less then 75K on my 06 and he said the MC shouldn't have gone already. Was afraid I would have to pay for the part and labor and still have a problem. Glad I had him do it as it works just fine now. Had to buy the MC from Toyota though because I didn't want a used one and I didn't trust an aftermarket. Total cost of repair with oil change (figured I might as well get it done while it was there) - $480. Not bad, considering this is the first time I have had anything done to the truck besides wear items.

 

Its been a while, so maybe you got to the bottom of this by now. I hadn't seen your update, but based on this latest info, I would check the front wheel bearings for play / movement. A bad bearing lets the rotor push the caliper pistons back much further than they should, and could cause the pulling and noise you describe. If you've resolved the issue, let us know the solution.

 

I have the SAME issue with my 05 DCSB. I've noticed in the last few months that the pedal has to go WAY down in order to brake properly or fully. The truck doesn't have any real bite.

Visual inspection tells me that it may be time to replace my pads/rotors. I've had the truck for 35k+ miles and not done any front brake work. During my last alignment, the shop adjusted my rear drums (15k ago).

With the truck off, I can push the pedal all the way down, release and bring it back up and push again. It goes about half way and is rock solid. I also see ZERO signs of fluid leak and have kept a close eye on my fluid level. Nothing has changed.

I'm thinking about doing front pads/rotors before looking into it further.

 

Holy 5 year old thread awakening!

Exess pedal travel has almost nothing to do with pad or shoe wear. It will most likely be an internal MC leak, not allowing it to hold pressure.

Very dangerous actually.

Bench bleeding and installing is not hard. Bleeding to the wheel calipers/cylinders is not hard. What can happen is the ABS module get air in it (via the new master) and it's almost impossible to manually bleed, because you don't have the tool to cycle the solenoids to let the air escape.

Just went through this mess with my '04 Highlander.

 

Sorry. I figured its better to re-awaken, than to start a whole new one.

So even with the truck off and potential MC leak, I can have a rock solid pedal?

Dangerous indeed.

 

Also, looks like a lot of people are saying to adjust the rear drums first, to see if the pedal travel changes.

 

No time like the present to revive an old thread!
my buddy is out of town for a few months and left me his 05’ to drive so it wasn’t just sitting. When I climbed in I immediately noticed the pedal was pretty spongy, but it was still drivable. I shot him a text to let him know it was an issue and he hit me with the old “Oh yeah man, I forgot to mention that!” He said when he took it to the shop they quoted him $480 for a new master cylinder. In an effort to tilt some sort of cosmic karma in my direction, I picked up a new one for him, checked the depth of the brake booster ram, bench bled the new MC, installed it, bled the brakes using the one man bleeder system (RR, RL, FR, FL) and had a relatively normal amount of air come out, turned the truck on and now it has zero brakes. Bled the brakes again With a buddy working the brakes while I opened and closed the bleeder screw and still no brakes. I was reading about a “fifth bleeder screw” for the brake positioning valve last night; could this be my problem? I’m really hung up on why the brakes would go from spongy to nada with a new MC and the only logical answer seems to be air in the lines as I have very thoroughly checked for a leak. The brakes are good and firm when the truck is off, but hit the deck when you turn it on. They’ll build up a little pressure if you work them, but lose it almost Immediately. Has anyone got any thoughts on this?

 

If you didn’t bench bleed the new mc or let the reservoir drain empty you’ll have issues. Not bench bleed, you can still get it done it’ll just take longer. The other requires the techstream at the dealership to get air out of the abs.

 

This is my bet.