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Replacing brakes w/o removing brake line.

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by BeeRadd, Jun 6, 2012.

  1. Jun 10, 2012 at 11:58 PM
    #21
    BeeRadd

    BeeRadd [OP] Bought not built.

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    LOADING...
    This is the thread that I kept on finding for changing the brakes and didn't want to do because It involved draining:

    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/38025-diy-front-brake-pad-change.html

    He used tubing and managed to do it by himself.

    My advice, get a second person if you can... Even if you don't need them It's always nice to have a second set of eyes/hands and it makes things go faster. If you tape the bottom part of the tube to the inside of a bucket you can most likely do it yourself and that will prevent the tube from sliding out and getting fluid everywhere. Also if you read up a little, a few people mention you don't need to remove the caliper to push the brakes in (but you do if you are going to be turning your rotors.) :rolleyes:
     
  2. Jun 11, 2012 at 4:26 AM
    #22
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    I removed them when I did mine. I replaced pads and rotors at once and tok the calipers completely off to work on them on a bench. We cleaned them up good while they were off also but the main reason we didn't want to leave them on was we didn't want to risk cracking one of the 5 year old steel lines while trying to get the rotors off. Otherwise, the job could have been done with the brake lines connected.

    You can bleed the brakes on your own with a speed bleeder but otherwise you need a second person. It should only take you a couple minutes tops.
     
  3. Jun 11, 2012 at 5:08 AM
    #23
    hillbillynwv

    hillbillynwv Well-Known Member

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    I just changed the brakes on my wifes 4Runner a couple months ago and did it just as shown in OP's photos. The reason I had to take the calipers off was because I was replacing the rotors, they had 206K miles on them and were original. The only other thing that I did was add some anti-chatter goop in between the shims and the brake pads before installing.
     
  4. Jun 11, 2012 at 8:53 PM
    #24
    BeeRadd

    BeeRadd [OP] Bought not built.

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    Damn that's a lot of miles! I am down to the nitty gritty on my rotors (well, to the point where no one will turn them) and I only have 84K miles :eek:

    Bought it with 74 so I guess the last guy was a little hard on em.

    :thumbsup: to your brake change though
     
  5. Jun 11, 2012 at 8:58 PM
    #25
    Leggo

    Leggo slow is smooth, and smooth is fast.

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    You did it the hard way, but good job getting it done!:D
     
  6. Jun 11, 2012 at 9:17 PM
    #26
    BeeRadd

    BeeRadd [OP] Bought not built.

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    Balls. Oh well... I couldn't find a thread showing an easier way so I said phuck it.
     
  7. Jun 11, 2012 at 9:37 PM
    #27
    Leggo

    Leggo slow is smooth, and smooth is fast.

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    This is how we all learn. You should be proud for having the balls to try this without experience or guidance. Great job!, really!
     
  8. Jun 11, 2012 at 9:42 PM
    #28
    Leggo

    Leggo slow is smooth, and smooth is fast.

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    These days, you just replace the rotors they are so cheap. They usually are not thick enough from new to machine again.
     
  9. Jun 11, 2012 at 10:52 PM
    #29
    BeeRadd

    BeeRadd [OP] Bought not built.

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    Right on, I think I will just do that. After doing the brakes I now realize replacing the rotors won't be that hard and I'm pretty sure they are relatively cheap online. IICR I saw them once on autoanything.com for like 70 bones.
     
  10. Jun 11, 2012 at 11:09 PM
    #30
    Caddmannq

    Caddmannq MotoNerd

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    I use this hand pump to bleed brakes if I don't have an assistant.
    Any auto parts shop will have these.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Jun 12, 2012 at 6:11 PM
    #31
    Schwinn

    Schwinn Well-Known Member

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    I bought a one person bleeder kit somewhere. It was basically a bottle with a magnet attached to it, and some tubing. Don't remember where I got it from.

    And just to be clear, when I talk about not removing the calipers, I mean actually disconnecting them from the hoses. Whenever I buy pads, I automatically by rotors...until the Kia, anyway. Those ones are stupid expensive and incredibly thick. I have a micrometer, and last change the pads were worn down, and the rotors still had more meat on them than my cars rotors did brand new.
     
  12. Jun 12, 2012 at 6:14 PM
    #32
    Brianz1001

    Brianz1001 Well-Known Member

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    you can also use a wire hanger to hold the caliper and a channel lock plier to push the piston in, thats how we roll at the dealer
     
  13. Jun 12, 2012 at 11:08 PM
    #33
    BeeRadd

    BeeRadd [OP] Bought not built.

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    I don't like the method of using channel locks and would prefer this not to be done to my truck, glad to know this now though thank you!
     
  14. Jun 13, 2012 at 9:28 AM
    #34
    Schwinn

    Schwinn Well-Known Member

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    I always thought the shops have a special tool for backing off the caliper?

    For the home mechanic, $5 for a ginormous C-clamp, FTW.
     
  15. Jun 13, 2012 at 10:53 AM
    #35
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    Great, now I know not to let your dealership touch my brakes :cool:

    If I ever saw a professional mechanic doing that to my truck, I'd be furious! The wire hanger part is fine but the channel lock bit isn't. Crack the bleeder and the calipers will press in easily by hand. No need to marr the shit out of the caliper head with channel locks.
     
  16. Jun 14, 2012 at 3:28 PM
    #36
    Leggo

    Leggo slow is smooth, and smooth is fast.

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    people would be horrified by what dealer tech's do, but colapsing the piston with chanellocks is no big deal just press against an old brake pad. The critical part is a straight push on the piston so as to not kink or jam it in the caliper. Some calipers require rotation of the piston while compressing it, thas when special tools enter the picture. A C clamp presses in the center of the piston and reduces the chance of damage to the caliper but in the hands of a PRO, anything to get the job done is fine.
     
  17. Jun 14, 2012 at 4:34 PM
    #37
    jtgroce

    jtgroce Got R Did

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    I use a C clamp but keep the old pad on to put C clamp against....that way it pushes piston evenly. Been changing brakes for 16yrs and never had to bleed them.
     
  18. Jun 14, 2012 at 4:48 PM
    #38
    Brianz1001

    Brianz1001 Well-Known Member

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    Pugga 1st off dude you don't know what the hell your talking about, thats common practice at a dealer, put the old pad against the piston then the channel lock. does no damage. the piston goes in with no effort.
    I have been doing this for over 25 yrs. over 10yrs at the dealer and the rest at my own shop.

    Do this job for 25yrs then talk to me. I don't do damage to any car/truck I work on. I have plenty of friends at different dealerships now that still do that.
     
  19. Jun 14, 2012 at 5:11 PM
    #39
    03coma

    03coma Well-Known Member

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    Brianz is right, I worked in a garage for 4 years, seen that done by many mechanics channellocks and c clamp. it's not like your forcing it back. if it does not move then there's something wrong with the psiton/caliber.
    If the mechanic knows what he's doing you have nothing to worry about. Simple as that. If you don't like the place "GO SOME WHERE ELES" no one is twisting your arm.
     
  20. Jun 14, 2012 at 5:17 PM
    #40
    Brianz1001

    Brianz1001 Well-Known Member

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    Coma gets what I'm talking about!
     

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