Replacing brakes w/o removing brake line.

Not a bad job.. My husband and I tackled the job on Friday. We've done plenty of brakes before but never with pistons on both sides. Got the rotors turned locally for $50 (original rotors) and bought OEM pads.

Strange anti-squeal plates. Two plates sitting on top each other. One plate had slots in it with some sort of dimpled surface on it.

I almost lost one of the damn clips on the pins.

I accidentally ordered two sets of pads...so if anyone is interested, I can get you a part number and price. These are OEM pads.
New brake job fixed a 'clunk' I was getting when applying the brakes.
The old brakes had about 3/16" pad left and 51,000 miles on them.

 

If you remove the clip that holds the flexible line on there is a slot in the bracket that you can slide the metal line through and not have to bend it.

 

So old thread, but I'll throw it out there. My Rotors were warped, (175,000 miles and like a bucking Bronco in a Hard Stop) so I went with some slotted and drilled rotors as I have an ungodly 1.5 hour commute each day and wanted some cooling. (I know dirt and chit will build up but my boy has his own now some traffic is more the norm). I changed both sides of course and now I have an annoying rattle that goes away when I apply some Brake Pedal, worried that it's wearing the pins, the Calipers not Hot, so not worried about a lock up at this point. Any ideas?

 

I went and got OEM Anti Rattle Springs and then put the aftermarket one on the bottom and the rattle is gone.

 

I would open the bleeder before compressing the caliber. I never worried about until I did the brakes on my Sporttrac. I use to just loosen the cap on the master cyl.. Now maybe the caliber was weak anyway but while compressing it sprung a leak.

 

Thanks for the write up.