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Replacing brakes w/o removing brake line.

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by BeeRadd, Jun 6, 2012.

  1. Jun 6, 2012 at 10:45 PM
    #1
    BeeRadd

    BeeRadd [OP] Bought not built.

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    LOADING...
    Hey Guys, First How-to thread here, hoping I can help anyone out that is looking to change their brakes WITHOUT disconnecting the brake line and losing fluids. I've been riding with my new brakes using this process for 2 weeks now and have had no problems since the change.

    I only spotted one how-to on removing your brakes but it involved disconnecting the lines and I didn't find it very helpful so I got the help from a buddy and documented it. I do apologize for the shitty iPhone pics, what few of them there are as well. Kind of hard to keep remembering to take pics as you're moving along.

    Note: In this version I do not shave the calipers because they were too thin to be shaved. It is not required but highly recommended! (would've cost 6 bucks each at the shop)

    Anyways, Let's get to it!


    What you'll need:
    A garage with basic tools like impact wrench, vehicle lift, sockets, wrenches, etc.
    550 cord, rope, whatever to hold up the caliper.
    Your new brake pads (I got the Gold CMAX set from AutoZone for $59, it came with new pins)
    C Clamp ( a bigger one will be better but any size is good)
    Some room to test them out where you won't hurt anybody or yourself
    EXTRA (good to have but not necessary):
    New cotter pins for the bolts holding the actual brake pads
    New anti-rattle pin (that funky weird looking springy thing in between the pads)
    Anti-sieze to make it easier the next time :thumbsup:

    (Im not responsible If you mess up your truck from this, but nothing happened to mine)

    We will be working on the right (passenger side), when you're done reverse the steps to rebuild and apply to the drivers side.

    STEP 1

    REMOVE THE WHEEL
    Loosen lug nuts while on the ground, Jack up your truck, remove lug nuts all together, remove the tire (remember when putting back on to tighten in a star pattern and double check when back on the ground)

    [​IMG]

    STEP 2
    REMOVE BRAKE LINE HARNESS:
    Loosen the single bolt attached to the spindle that's holding the brake line. Save the hardware.
    [​IMG]

    STEP 3
    REMOVE THE CALIPER:
    Remove the two bolts holding the caliper. If you've never used anti-sieze this may be pretty tough as the torque will be hard to break. I used two wrenches and some sorry of trick where you use the box ends of the wrenches to hold onto each other and apply more force.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    What it will look like when removed:
    [​IMG]

    STEP 4
    SECURE THE CALIPERS WITH CORD:
    Pull the caliper off the rotor. Use 550 or "Rigger's" cord or ANY cord to hold the caliper up from somewhere like the UCA with enough slack to work on WITHOUT hanging by the brake line. MAKE SURE once you have it supported it's not being held by the brake line. (I had mine supported but somehow the string came loose and it was held by the line, nothing broke thankfully but do be careful)
    [​IMG]

    STEP 5
    REMOVING THE BRAKE PADS:
    Remove the cotter pins, Bolts, and the Anti-rattle pin. If you do not have new cotter pins or anti-rattle pins be gentle when removing them since you will be re-using them. Some brake pad sets come with new ones. The top and bottom bolts holding the pads should slide right out.
    I had already removed the pins in these pics:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    STEP 6
    COMPRESS THE BRAKE PAD ACTUATORS
    Using a C clamp AND the old brake pad, compress the two extending cylinders behind each brake pad (2) until they get as small as possible. Use the brake pad since it's bad and you don't want to harm the cylinders. If you leave one side slightly extended it may be hard for you to put them calipers back on
    [​IMG]
    EXTREME CLOSEUP WOOAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHH
    [​IMG]
    Notice how far they are in. They may look like they can go further but If you've got them to here you're good.

    STEP 7
    REPLACE BRAKE PADS, BOLTS, PINS, and ANTI-RATTLE PIN:
    Put in your new brake pads (you can't really install these things backwards, just look at what you're doing. Put 'em in, push in the anti-rattle pin THEN push in the top and bottom bolts. Now before attaching the cotter pins make sure the caliper will go back on and you don't have to compress the actuators anymore.

    Should look like this when you're done:

    [​IMG]

    FINAL STEPS:
    Reattach the Calipers (Use a little anti-sieze on the bolts), Remove your cord, small child, girlfriend, or whatever you used to support the caliper.
    Reinstall Wheel and tighten lug nuts in a STAR pattern.
    (remember to double check once you finish the other side and actually lower the truck)

    APPLY STEPS TO DRIVERS SIDE and you're done!

    CAUTION: Once you've got your wheels on with every thing installed and you're ready to move out, the first couple presses of the brakes will be weak. PUMP THE BRAKES until it gets tighter.
    Put it into reverse and test a few inches to make sure it stops.
    -
    Now head in a direction where you can't hurt yourself or anyone else and test out the brakes at different speed intervals. I did one at 10mph and one more at 30mph.
    -
    -
    -
    That's it friends, hope this helps any newbies out there like me trying to save a few bucks and change out their brakes on their own. Take Care, God Bless.
    ;)
     
  2. Jun 6, 2012 at 10:51 PM
    #2
    brutalguyracing

    brutalguyracing BIG DADDY

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    great write up but there is no need to remove the caliper
     
  3. Jun 6, 2012 at 10:54 PM
    #3
    BeeRadd

    BeeRadd [OP] Bought not built.

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    Thanks! I guess looking at it I could have managed to wedge that C clamp in without taking off the caliper but I feel that wouldve made it a lot harder to work with. I appreciate the feed back though, thank you.
     
  4. Jun 7, 2012 at 7:20 AM
    #4
    white toy taco

    white toy taco 505 Member

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    great write up though man, good details w/lots of good pics! :thumbsup:
     
  5. Jun 7, 2012 at 7:35 AM
    #5
    aficianado

    aficianado Well-Known Member

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    great pics!! tell me that is your garage!

    i grew up in El Paso. my moms says it is getting friggen hot!!
     
  6. Jun 7, 2012 at 8:45 AM
    #6
    06SR5canada

    06SR5canada Well-Known Member

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    i didnt need to use a c-clamp to push them in, i just used the handle of my pliers like a lever, very easy
     
  7. Jun 7, 2012 at 8:57 AM
    #7
    PB65stang

    PB65stang Well-Known Member

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    I'm confused...it's been awhile since I've done it, but don't our pads just come out with the caliper installed on the rotor, like a motorcycle? If I remember right it took me like 15 minutes to change pads...
     
  8. Jun 7, 2012 at 9:03 AM
    #8
    XXXX

    XXXX Well-Known Member

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    this

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    OP if your going to re-use the old pins, rattle pads, and clips they need to be cleaned and lubed. Also if your going to press the pistons in you risk contaminating them and could ruin them. I do it this way, but a word of caution needs to be said. This isn't technically the correct way to do it and the brakes should be bled to do it properly so contaminants aren't forced into the system.
     
  9. Jun 7, 2012 at 12:08 PM
    #9
    BeeRadd

    BeeRadd [OP] Bought not built.

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    Thanks for the feedback guys, I am rather new at this stuff and like I said I had a friend help me. My taco is the first truck I've ever owned and I did a lot of research/lurking on TW before I bought it.

    I was hoping this would just be a good guide for anyone doing the brakes, I didn't want to bleed the brakes because I didn't have any fluid on me and I was trying to keep the job as liquid free as possible.

    From what everyone has said you DON'T need to take off the calipers, I will attempt to do this next time I have a brake change but for now I'm glad I did just to make working with them easier and get to know a little more about the truck :thumbsup:

    Thank you all again for your feedback and support.
     
  10. Jun 7, 2012 at 12:11 PM
    #10
    BeeRadd

    BeeRadd [OP] Bought not built.

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    LOADING...
    Thanks very much!

    No that is not my Garage, It's a do-it yourself garage (or rental garage) on ft. bliss
    So funny that you grew up hear and now live in cali, I grew up in cali and now live here! :D

    Nice job man! They went in pretty easy I just used a c clamp because I guess that was my buddy's method. Seemed to work well but anything with a little force would've too. :eek:
     
  11. Jun 7, 2012 at 12:12 PM
    #11
    BTO

    BTO Well-Known Member

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    Actually, the correct way to do brakes is to remove the caliper so you can remove the rotors to have them either turned or replaced. Just slapping pads in can cause problems such as marginal braking or improper bedding.
     
  12. Jun 7, 2012 at 12:14 PM
    #12
    BeeRadd

    BeeRadd [OP] Bought not built.

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    LOL first person to agree with me doing that! :eek: I did take them off because originally I was going to get them turned but apparently they we're too thin.
    Thanks!
     
  13. Jun 7, 2012 at 12:16 PM
    #13
    white toy taco

    white toy taco 505 Member

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    but overall it was a great and very detailed write up. nice job :thumbsup:
     
  14. Jun 7, 2012 at 12:18 PM
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    BTO

    BTO Well-Known Member

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    Using the c-clamp is a better method because you can more easily backflow the brake fluid in a slower, more controlled manner. I've heard of problems such as fluid spills and sucking in air by using some other method.
     
  15. Jun 7, 2012 at 12:20 PM
    #15
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    No need to remove the calipers and no need for a c-clamp. Just loosen the bleeder and the pistons will press in fairly easily.

    Also, you were fine up until your last comment about the brake pedal being weak. ALWAYS bleed the brakes after a brake job and you'll have good, firm pedal from the moment it's off the jack stands. You bleed the brakes for a couple reasons, to flush through the old brake fluid that's been constantly getting hot/cold from being next to the brake and, most importantly, to flush air out of the system so you don't get that soft pedal feeling.
     
  16. Jun 7, 2012 at 8:40 PM
    #16
    Schwinn

    Schwinn Well-Known Member

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    Great write up, but I'm confused why anyone would remove the brake lines? Other than when I had to change my calipers on previous cars, I've never heard of such a thing.

    As for turning the rotors, there is no one who does them where I am. Pisses me off, too, because the rotors on my wife's sedona are stupid expensive, and thick as all get out. Last brake job I did, they were around 11mm beyond minimum thickness. Fortunately, the rotors wore completely smooth, no grooves or any contanimination, so I re-used them. 20k km later, still no issue. And thank gosh, because when I replaced the pads and rotors on the back, it was close to $400!
     
  17. Jun 7, 2012 at 10:55 PM
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    Cortland

    Cortland THIS IS AMERICA!!!

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    Great write up!
     
  18. Jun 8, 2012 at 9:31 AM
    #18
    XXXX

    XXXX Well-Known Member

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    No need to remove....just let the pressure out then bleed when done.

    When you compress the piston without relieving the pressure your forcing shit into the brake system. Doing it this way has caused brake failure for some people. For 18 years I have changed my brakes without letting the pressure out, but I could just be lucky.
     
  19. Jun 10, 2012 at 11:32 PM
    #19
    BeeRadd

    BeeRadd [OP] Bought not built.

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    Thanks!
     
  20. Jun 10, 2012 at 11:49 PM
    #20
    Country101

    Country101 Well-Known Member

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    Could be a stupid question, but I'll ask since I dont know. Can you bleed the brakes by yourself or do you need a second person? I usually change the brakes with the clamp method(havent done my taco yet, so not having to remove the caliper is new to me.) and have only opened up the brake lines on 1 vehicle, so I dont know much about it. Enlighten me on the procedure for bleeding lines, if you please, so I can do it right.
     

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