About to lift..... Maybe.

I've done a few searches but either get lost in the lingo, or the thread changes directions after a page or two. I want to run 33s on my 12DC Sport 4X4. Consensus is that a 3" leveling kit up front and 1"+ AAL in the rear will accomplish this. That, and some BFG KM2s on MT Classic IIs and i'm set right? So I thought. The local lift shop had thrown in some warnings that concern me.
1) With the OEM wheels being lug centric, replacing them with hub centric after market wheels might create a steering vibration?
2) most after market wheels have a hard time clearing calipers without spacers?
My goal is to maintain factory ride as much as possible. I won't be flexing but do occasionally run light trails, nothing that factory won't run. I'm in it for the better more aggressive look of 33s, not necessarily the capability. Can't tolerate a steering wheel shake. I don't mind keeping the TRD wheels but would paint them black if I kept them. Any input, especially from experience with same would help. Thanks!

 

You're mechanic is right about the lug centric/hub centric. I got a nice death wobble at 45-60mph directly after installing my new wheels. I also had to get Spidertrax spacers to clear my front calipers, but that's only because I did not do my research on the wheels and didn't get the correct offset.

If you really want 33"s, you can put them on the stock wheels. They'll look fine, plus you wont have to worry about them hitting your calipers. However, you will need spacers. Stock TRD Sport offset with 33"s will rub against your UCA's.

3" lift will be perfect. but with only 1" AAL you may have a little "bro lean".

 

1. OEM wheels are hub centric. Aftermarket are lug centric.

2. lots of people on here running aftermarket wheels w/o spacers. It all depends on the back spacing and offset you get with the wheel that determines if they will hit.

 

16" + wheels generally won't hit, and a lot of people including myself run MT Classics

Do some searching on backspacing. Proper backspacing will alleviate the need for spacers

I believe the classic locks are 16x8 with 4.5 bs or so, which will clear

3" front and 1" rear sounda pretty nose high to me

 

285's with stock wheels. No spacers. I only rub at full lock to the left. Been driving it like this for a couple months. I have LR UCA's though.

 

So regardless of price, whats the best way to accomplish 33s without changing the factory ride and with no shake?

 

OME or Toytec 3" kit with some aftermarket UCA's.

 

Do you have any steering shake? What wheel size/BS?

 

Get wheel spacer, if you want to save some money on tires, treadwright are retreads and they are great i've had them for 40k miles with great tread wear, and cost a lot less. You can get the OME shocks, and an aal. But getting new UCA's would be good also. Also factory ride is really soft, when you add the new shocks it will be stiffer, you can try OME with 884 coils which are softer but you won't be able to add weight like a bull bar, or new front end.

 

If you're concerned about tire rubbing:

- go an 8" wide rim with 4.5" backspacing for best chance of fitting 285 width tires. You'll still have to trim a bunch of plastic inside the wheelwell - or rub - or avoid turning full lock.

If you're concerned about clearing the calipers:
- Most (not all) 17" wheels fit. Some 16" wheels fit.
- pick a wheel and google this site to see if anyone's mounted that particular rim on a tacoma successfully.

For example, to find my wheels, type the following into images.google.com

procomp 7005 tacoma site:tacomaworld.com

If you're concerned about wheel balance vibrations: go to a big shop that does LOTS of aftermarket tires and has a road force balancer. Make sure they install new centering lugnuts with extended threads.

 

I wouldn't preface the question with "regardless of price" because people will tell you Icon or King with Resi's. I would get a budget then shop around. If your budget is 1000, I'd go OME, if its 800 then 5100 with Ebichs, ifs its 600 I'd go 5100s and keep the stock springs. If its 300 then just go front spacers. Especially if your looking at just clearing 33's.


That's just my opinion

 

The main thing for a better riding truck - if you're willing to add a little money to your budget - is go full rear leaf pack replacement instead of "add-a-leaf."

Lots of folks like the OME Dakar leaf pack - assuming you haul stuff in your truck bed. If it's always empty all the time there are a couple other ones sprung very light that ride soft and have lots of droop for four-wheeling. But that's not consistent with how you say you use your truck.

 

3" lift kit with Bilstein 5100 Height adjustable Coilovers, LR UCAs, Konig Countersteer Off Road 16X8 w/4.5BS, and BFG KM2 with proper balancing and alignment. Sound about right?

 

Pretty much my setup, however I have 265 tires instead of 285's. Minor steering vibes once in awhile. Nothing constant or severe though.

 

Yeah, I was checking out your build. I like it a lot. I wish I could get the Konig in a 17", but otherwise almost perfect.

 

Konig does have a 17" that some have used, albeit it's a different style. I would have liked a 17" wheel as well, all my other options I was looking at were 17".

 

That'll do it.

OME would be the only thing I would do differently.

The 17" konigs are called type x. There's a thread on here with a guy selling them. Only real aesthetic difference is the spokes so to say are flat instead of curved out.

 

I was in your shoes at one point. Lifting my truck was the best thing. Ome's lift kit is great. It has dual disc technology and is pretty dam responsive for the off-roading I do. Toytec is my supplier when I am in need. Lift your truck, get aftermarket UCA's if you don't live where they dump a lot of salt and sand in the winter, and you'll be fine. Like many stated, add-a life is affordable, but a full lead replacement is better. I wish I could afford one, but I just don't do hardcore off-roading like many on this site.

 

OP keep in mind that a larger tire can also cause shake* in the steering if you don't adjust the caster further back.
In some cases, the shake is not a result of lug centric wheels but because of a poor alignment. It's not recommended to run a lift and larger tires with factory spec alignment as the larger tires needs to be further back to compensate.

A safe alignment for a truck with 285's and 2.5-3" lift:
Caster (3.5) to (3.8) degrees
Toe: (-0.1) to (-0.2) degrees facing slightly / \ allows for a centered feel
camber: (0) to (-0.5)

With the added caster you may rub on the rear frame by the firewall that can be compensated by cutting.

 

About to order my Ultimate Bilstein lift next week. Super stoked about it! Gonna keep the stock TRD 16x8 wheels (because I like them and no one around here has any that I have seen!). Going with 285/75/16 tires (just not sure which brand yet).

The wife wasn't too happy with me about it. Sometimes it is just easier to ask for forgiveness than it is for permission!