Thud thunk lunge lurch, stopping started, axle wrap SOLVED.

can you elaborate on your experience with the pro comp bar? I'm curious as to why more people don't use traction bars, they seem like one of the best solutions just by looking at the basic concept of how they work

 

Where and how much for the axel? Did you install yourself? Pics?

 

The pro comp bar looked cheesey and too light. also it didnt line up properly and I was told by the shop guys that because I have Dakars in the rear it wouldnt fit without modification. they ended up trying to mod it themselves and it was a disaster- still didnt fit. I would highly suggest to anyone wanting a traction bar to buy a budbuilt. not only do they have the best ratings on the forum, but bud himself knows his stuff, will talk to you personally and is super nice and helpful!

now the explanation I got from him was a traction bar will immediately fix the axle wrap but not fully prevent it from happening- only mask it.

a 1 piece shaft seems to be the only "perfect" cure

 

So did you measure your angles throughout the drivetrain or just toss the shims in at different degrees?

Did you ever grease the yoke yourself?

A one piece shaft is not curing any axle wrap it would be a part to mask it. A traction bar is the product to actually stop axle wrap.

As for the new driveshaft what joint setup does it have? Common u-joint, cardon/ double?

Glad to hear you solved your problem in the end. Need to elaborate a bit more.

 

well im not tech savy but heres what the shop tried first:

they tried shims beginning at 2 degress and ended at 4 degrees. there they said the angle was perfect. the acceleration shutter was somewhat better but still there.

greased the slip yolk and the thud was gone but thats what happened last time- it came back.

i spoke with bud at budbuilt about the traction bar and he suggested shimming the carrier lower as well as grease the slip yolk. he also said the one piece shaft would be the cure all.


the drive shaft they made for me is aluminum 1 piece std u joint. I had heard about the double cardon and spoke with the folks at tom woods first. they said double cardon usually suggested on shorter shafts like a jeep but aluminum on tacomas especially being mine is a 2wd.

so far the shudder is completely eliminated and I havent noticed a slip yolk problem since... fingers crossed

 

I tried to do this yesterday before I found this thread. I didn't know to take off the clamps. I just unbolted the four bolts on the rear diff and expected the shaft to drop down and come off. I tried to kick it loose with no result. I removed the 2 bolts on the carrier bearing to get some more play, but still didn't budge. I tried tapping the bracket with a hammer, but decided to do more research before I take a hammer to anything.

I thought the rear piece was supposed to slide forward and drop down is this not correct? Mine wasn't sliding forward.

When I removed the carrier bearing bolts I noticed the slip yolk flexing as I lowered the shaft.

If I remove the clamps on the rubber and remove the carrier bearing bolts, will the slip yolk come out when I lower it without dropping the rear end of the shaft?

I was hoping to find some pics that were specific to 05+ tacomas.

 

I am having a thud at start as well. I have a 2wd Pre-Runner and do no think I have a slip yoke. Am I overlooking it ??

 

yes

u still have a slip yolk...

 

Running a 1 piece and still have a shudder.

 

More of a thud but yes.

 

the shudder is known as " the shudder of death" lol

its a known problem when going 3+ INCHES. its the angle of pinion/driveshaft/ carrier drop........ a 4x4 easy fix is a traction bar. a 2x2 driveshaft is the only solution i have heard of

 

So the lunging and surge when coming to a stop and starting to accelerate started to rear its face again last week.

So it lasted almost a years worth of driving. I am not exactly sure but I would say between 10-15K of miles before having to regrease the splines again.

I pulled it apart today and the grease that was in there was breaking down and thinner than when originally applied.

Regreased and took it for a spin with no signs lunging and surging from stops. Shudder on my truck is on and off depending on how fast or slow I take off but you have to try and notice it. Only about 10mph is where it can be felt if it happens.

 

I have been having a little kick when i come to a complete stop as well. I have taken it to a transmission shop because I noticed it was leaking fluid from where the front yoke enters the transmission. They said that the bushing inside where the front yoke goes in is natorious for going bad. I'm going to try and replace it and grease the front slip yoke as well as the entire shaft as well. Has anyone found any posts about walking through greasing the drive shafts with pictures?

 

I think I have the same problem, but could this be possible with a 2WD? If so, could someone post pics of the joints I need to disassemble and grease?

 

Good to know. Thanks for reporting back the service interval for your truck...

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/te...ntire-drive-shaft-u-joints-5-zerks-total.html

 

I've been having this clunk noise issue since the summer. And I think it's been there much longer, just not as loud so I didn't hear. But since the summer, I can both hear it and feel it.

I'm learning here that (correct me if I'm wrong), the noise if from the slip yoke binding. And that binding is or can likely the result of axel wrap. There will always be some degree of axel wrap, whether you have aftermarket leafs or not, so a better or more complete remedy is to make sure the slip yoke is greased well. Re-greasing of the slip yoke may/will be required again when the binding re-occurs. Despite what measures you take, including greasing the slip yoke will result in a more lasting remedy.

Is that about right?

Before all this, I read the u-bolts could be the culprit because the manufacturer may not have torque the bolts enough (only 37#). From what I've read, it appears this u-bolt thing simply adds to the axel wrap problem with leads to slip yoke binding. So tightening the u-bolts may or may not help... or may remedy it, but only for a short while.

Did I get that right, too?

Anyway... I finally got under there this weekend. It was easy enough to tighten the bolts and I tightened to 73# (as I've read in this forum as well as others). Right away, this made the clunk go away. I'm not so optimistic it will stay that way based on what I've read here, though, so I'll still make plans for doing the slip yoke. I'll post back to update on my progress... ie how it takes for the clunk to return after just tightening the ubolts.

Anyway, thanks so much for the valuable info in this thread. I'm starting to "wrap" my head around this issue

Here's another thing... I recently installed air suspension on the rear axel (Air Lift). I started pulling a pop-up (this summer) and wanted to correct the ride. I knew the rear springs were weak and was contributing to the slip yoke binding. But I thought having pressure in the air bags constantly (even without the pop-up) would be more or less equivalent on having AAL. But that still didn't fix the "clunk". Just curious on your thoughts on that.

 

Mine cured with an allpro leaf pack. The stock springs with aal were driving me crazy.

 

No issues yet since I greased it last time I reported back.

Just a part of maintenance on a truck with a slip yoke. Every truck I have owned has had this issue after the miles started racking up. Tahoe, sierra, silverado, tacoma and a J-10.

Proper grease and a little work seems to do the trick.

Same issue if you are 2wd or 4wd both have a slip yoke.

If you have a shudder it is also likely a driveline angle concern. The greasing of the slip yoke is mainly for the thunk, lurch and lunge effect.

It is a whole big picture of leaf springs wearing out, driveline angles/driveshaft style and slip yoke wear.

 

Tighten bolts didnt help at all. I don't know it seemed like it went away when I test drove it. I was punching the gas from stop and couldn't get it to clunk. Then I gave the Taco a wash. After the wash... there it was again. Who knows, but at least now I know my u bolts are tightened, at least above 37#.

I will be planning on the slip yoke next weekend.

 

Subscribed. Mine has the thud and I plan to grease the slip yoke. Thanks for all the info.