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Oil filter help??

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by cleveland48, Jul 29, 2012.

  1. Jul 29, 2012 at 9:48 PM
    #21
    92LandCruiser

    92LandCruiser Well-Known Member

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    I used some sand paper on mine. Think I later took the dremel to it to scuff it up more.
     
  2. Jul 29, 2012 at 9:49 PM
    #22
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    It's a pain in the ass.

    Shut down, leave the engine off for about 5 minutes, pull the stick, wipe it down, quickly reinsert and remove.

    Fresh synthetic, it'll look like water and be very hard to read. Once it's got some color from a few miles, it'll be easier.

    Some people have taken 100 grit sandpaper to their dipstick to put some texture between the dots.
     
  3. Jul 29, 2012 at 9:53 PM
    #23
    wileyC

    wileyC Well-Known Member

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    anyone know "why" toyota didn't make a conventional disptick w/ checkering pattern???? seems really cheap, especially for a fairly expensive vehicle... i mean, the dipstick is basically illegible...? right now i'm going by the fact i know i put 5.5 qts in...
     
  4. Jul 29, 2012 at 9:55 PM
    #24
    92LandCruiser

    92LandCruiser Well-Known Member

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    Tracer dye and a black light ? :D

    Scuff it up a bunch, makes it easier.
     
  5. Jul 29, 2012 at 10:21 PM
    #25
    cleveland48

    cleveland48 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    5100's set at 1.75, 1.5 in. AAL, 265/75/16 Cooper ST tires.
    I also find the dipstick hard to read and the oil filter was on there pretty damn tight too. Took me a while to get it off. It seemed a lot tighter than snug plus 1/8 to a 1/4 turn to me
     
  6. Jul 29, 2012 at 11:49 PM
    #26
    05sctaco

    05sctaco Well-Known Member

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    Read your dip stick before you start your truck, that is what your supposed to do. Also just stick with the toyota OEM filter, it have x2 the filtering media then any of the other brand filters. If you have 10k for life oil changes, the good think is that the oil will last, just change the filter at every 5k and top it off if it is low until you can change the oil. But always change the filter, and when you do, but 1/2 a quart back in since the filter holds oil. You can buy a 10 pack online cheaper than the dealership.
     
  7. Jul 30, 2012 at 12:01 AM
    #27
    ColtsTRD

    ColtsTRD Well-Known Member

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    Dude...only run OEM Filters
     
  8. Jul 30, 2012 at 10:02 PM
    #28
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Just wanted to update.

    I just placed an order.... 10 filters for the Taco and 10 filters for the Rav4.

    Total was $87.75 shipped.
    That's $4.39 per filter for the OEM Toyota/Denso filter.
    About the same price as Fram, cheaper than Purolator.
     
  9. Jul 31, 2012 at 8:56 AM
    #29
    gocky

    gocky Well-Known Member

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    urd intake, race runner coilovers, fox 2.0 piggy back rear, tsb leafs, pro comp light bar, kc 6x9 hid, bfg mud terrain km1, tailgate anti theft mod, banks exhaust, oil filter drain hose extension, optima yellow top. debadged and peeled all the stickers off
    after reading the datailed comparisons here, I just ordered 10 toyota filters @$3.89/ea.
     
  10. Aug 7, 2012 at 1:28 PM
    #30
    Death_Stalker

    Death_Stalker " The Master Ninja"

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    spend few more bucks but dont buy fram please .. you trying to save a few bucks here and there will make you pay in hundreds in the long run. Bosch is good, i also used K&N some times. Always remember use the best possible oil and filter for your truck, actually i say best possible everything. its like eating unhealthy fast food 3 times a day or having a healthy diet. The choice is yours.
     
  11. Aug 8, 2012 at 3:58 AM
    #31
    cleveland48

    cleveland48 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    5100's set at 1.75, 1.5 in. AAL, 265/75/16 Cooper ST tires.
    I bought some of the Toyota filters they charged me 5.50$ a piece I believe. I always used Mobil 1 in my other Tacoma but couldn't find it. So I put castrol synthetic in it
     
  12. Aug 8, 2012 at 5:22 AM
    #32
    PMK

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    White, debadged, Mudflaps removed, ICON 2.5 in front, 2.0 in rear, all 4 corners have reservoirs, Spidertrax wheel spacers all around, BAMF bolt on sliders, Avid lightbar, oem transmission cooler converted to power steering cooler, aftermarket transmission cooler eliminating all oem transmission cooler stuff, remote mounted spin on transmission fluid filter TrueTrac rear differential, rear diff housing vented and filtered into left side bed box, URD MAF calibrator, Volant intake scoop into oem airbox, second filter removed, airbox internals smoothed, blended and polished throttle body, NST intake manifold spacer, Wet Okolee set covers, WeatherTech Digital Fit mats, inexpensive JVC single DIN, Scangage, AVS Stepshield door sill protectors, Doug Thorley Long Tube Headers, URD Y pipe with O2 sims.
    10k on oil changes, maybe I'm wrong, but isn't the recommended interval 5k plus the maintenance light will come on at 4500 miles.

    I'll likely get flamed for stupid, but TRD filter, Mobil 1 5/30 oil at approximately 5k intervals. At least until the end of the year when the warranty is up.

    PK
     
  13. Aug 8, 2012 at 5:27 AM
    #33
    InactiveUser

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    FRAM is the WORST filter on the market...I know because I worked at wal-mart :p IDK how many I pulled off of cars that had the filter element rattle inside the can.

    ALWAYS use WIX filters. They are the best engineered and built, I don't care what anyone else says. This is from research done from a third party and common sense when you look at how they are built.

    Anyway, almost all Toyota engines take the exact same filter.
     
  14. Aug 8, 2012 at 5:34 AM
    #34
    InactiveUser

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    Have you ever read the owners manual? It specifically says 5k-10k, which depends on if you drive in the city or on the highway.

    I know a dude that did 15k oil changes on Mobil 1 and when I knew him 4 years ago that engine had 500,000 miles on it! No engine work. Now they have oil that says it will work for 15,000 miles and Mobil will cover lubrication related damage.

    Oh and it's 5W30...have to have the W in it because that stands for winter...not weight...WINTER.

    Also, 0W30 is far better. It is just as easy to pump when it is at 32 degrees Fahrenheit as water is to pump...that's what the 5 or 10 stands for. How hard it is to pump compared to water. So you get better gas mileage and better lubrication. I did the math and it basically pays for itself if you upgrade from conventional oil to synthetic.

    A LOT of people could benefit from reading publications from manufacturers of cars, oil filters, oil, tires...etc...I mean, I worked with a bunch of idiots who would ask me question all the time (the same ones) when all they had to do was read the books the tire manufacturers gave us, like 50 pages in it...I did and I know more than dudes at any tire shop or car store about tires. Why? I read information STRAIGHT from the manufacturer...not rumors.
     
  15. Aug 8, 2012 at 5:37 AM
    #35
    InactiveUser

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    Castrol and Mobil are the leading oil manufacturers. There are only 3 oil companies, everyone else buys oil from them and mixes up their own oil.

    Shell (Pennzoil, Quakerstate...etc. That company has a dozen brands -_- all shitty); Exxon (Mobil, and interestingly enough Wal-Mart's brand of oil called "Super Tech"); BP (Castrol)
     
  16. Aug 8, 2012 at 8:04 AM
    #36
    92LandCruiser

    92LandCruiser Well-Known Member

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    Where does Napa/Valvoline -- Ashland come in? What about Chevron?
     
  17. Aug 8, 2012 at 8:33 AM
    #37
    Nixinus

    Nixinus Well-Known Member

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    It is important that the filter you use has the correct thread and gasket size. The height can vary. Although you didn't ask I suggest that you stick to Oem. Toyota designed the filters do filter at a particular micron level as well as bypass at q certain psi. You can find Oem filters in bulk for a great price and is something worth the extra money in the long run.
     
  18. Aug 8, 2012 at 8:38 AM
    #38
    DeeKay21

    DeeKay21 Lieutenant Dan.

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    Forget aftermarket and go with Toyota OEM filters. People think they are going to be pricey but they are fairly cheap in price for the most part. I usually buy them in a 5 or 10-pack off of Ebay and since I only change my oil 2-3 times per year, it lasts me a while!!!:D
     
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  19. Aug 8, 2012 at 8:39 AM
    #39
    Nixinus

    Nixinus Well-Known Member

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    I do the exact same thing but I will get a UOA at 5k and 10k to see if I can extend the intervals. I have done this for a while and will keep it consistent for the life of the truck. I have seen cars/trucks react to a change in the type of oil and filter used.
     
  20. Aug 8, 2012 at 5:38 PM
    #40
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    +1

    Bears repeating....

    Honestly, the Toyota filter is an excellent filter and you really can't do better. Certainly not for the price.
    You can get them at your dealer, but check some of the online dealerships like Titus-Will and Toyota of Dallas. They are generally around $4.00 per filter (shipping is minimum $10 or 10% of the order) so ordering a case through them is cheaper if your dealer is charging more than $4.50 per filter.
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/out.php?...tid=10020&subcatid=20099&section=1&type=parts

    $15.95 for your air filter and $3.89 for oil.

    =========
    Just wanted to update.

    I just placed an order.... 10 filters for the Taco and 10 filters for the Rav4.


    Total was $87.75 shipped.

    That's $4.39 per filter for the OEM Toyota/Denso filter.
    About the same price as Fram, cheaper than Purolator.



    Guys... Less than $90 for enough filters to last 100,000 miles.
     
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