Back up light upgrade/blowing fuse...

About a month ago i have added two 55W back up lights to light up the dark when out in wilderness.... Connected directly to the factory originals, (one at a time to see if any fuse will blow) All was good, no fuse blown...so i have not ran any separate wires.
Yesterday, as i was trying to back up, started up the car, tried to put on reverse- the shifter was stuck in "P". I figure that the solenoid which is powered through brake pedal would not disengage "release" the shifter. So, depressed the release knob (the manual override button on the upper left corner) and was on my way to my mechanic shop. While driving, i've noticed that turning signals, AC and back up lights are dead also. Humm...as if that was not enough, while driving on HWY, got to 65Mph and noticed that i am stuck on the last gear about 2700 rpm and my overdrive mode was not working. So, made it to my mechanic, we looked up the "check engine light" code, and traced the problem down to the 10Amp mini fuse. Replaced the fuse- all back to normal!
Today- same thing happened!
Now i am concerned. I was wondering if the 10amp mini fuse for back up light is in circuit with AC, Turning signals, and the shifter solenoid..and is it possible that i am overloading it ...or i should look for the problem somewhere else? But whey i am questioning the "theory" because if i am overloading the fuse, then it should popp right away not after a month...?

Any idea guys?

 

It's the brake light circuit that provides power to get the shifter to unlock. Should be separate from the backup lights.

Got any aftermarket things installed that tap the brake light circuit? Campershell with third brake light? Aftermarket towing harness? That's the wiring for the shift interlock. Don't see how reverse lights affect that.

 

Sure. 55wats x 2 is 110 watts.
110 watts /12 volts is 9.2 amps.
That is why your fuse is melting.
The engineers who designed that circuit did not design it for headlights. You will have to run a relay.

 

Joes, thanks for your input. No actually i have nothing connected to brake lights circuit.

 

The formula is correct and yes, engineers have a fuse in a place to prevent overload. But first of all, why after a month? Second, if that fuse blows, is it in circuit with the rest of things that were affected? back up lights, turning signal lights, AC and the shifter solenoid

 

I can't find the right wiring diagram on TTORA that will show everything that's on the IG1 fuse. According to the backup light wiring diagram, that's the fuse involved. Since a pair of 55w lights draws 10 amps on it's own, you've got a definite overload condition.

If the whole truck works perfect after replacing that fuse, then I'd rewire your aux lights and call it a day.

No clue why it worked okay for a month, except perhaps it takes awhile for that fuse to blow when it's only an amp or two over the rating.

 

I think i will just disconnect the aux. lights replace the fuse and call it a day. But for the sake of "finding some answers" i may just shorten one of factory lights and see if i can reproduce the same...
If so, then i will for sure ran a separate wire w/relay.

Thanks guys. I will add some comments later after my experiments. (or pictures with burning truck

 

same thing happened to me...the shidting thing....all i had to do was replace the brake lamp fuse