Does the CS-144 alternator fit in 2nd gen Tacomas?

Here is what I'm looking to put in:

http://store.alternatorparts.com/cs144-series-250-amp-extreme-duty-dual-rectifier-alternator.aspx

I need to replace my alternator and I've been doing a little research and this seams to be the cheapest option for me except I'm not sure it will fit. I called Quick Start and they told me I needed 7" from the back of the belt (closest to the motor) to the back of the alternator. I went out and measured and it looks like the exhaust manifold is in the way. Has anyone done this conversion on a 2005 and later 4.0L Tacoma?

If this doesn't end up working out I am just going to buy the 250 or 270 from here:

https://www.dcpowerinc.com/fit/2005~Toyota~Tacoma~4.0L-V6-1GR-FE/11139-250-xp.html

They are a little more expensive but from what I have heard they make great quality alternators.

Does anyone have any other suggestions as far as alternators go? I would like to get a higher amp since I'm running a 1000 watt stereo and plan to add some lights in the future. The 130 amp is already warn out.

Thanks!

Kyle

 

Wow! Posts move down fast here. I'm wanting to purchase a new one here in the next couple of days so if anyone has any info it would be much appreciated. Otherwise I'll just caugh up the extra cash and get the DC Power alternator.

 

have you considered one of these http://shop.mean-green.com/2008-05-TACOMA-40L-MG11139.htm

 

I did look at those and the only reason I'm hesitant is that they don't say anything about amperage. Plus, "Easy 5 Minute Installation"…yeah right! I was hopping to get a one with a dual rectifier and this one says nothing about it. I'm just skeptical about this one…unless anyone has used these before and can tell me otherwise.

 

i personally have not used the green monster brand but i have heard a few good things about them. also another thing to consider is do you need power idling or do you need it running down the road? the alternator will obviously producemore power when it is being turned faster

 

Hmmm….I'm not really sure. My speakers started sounding really distorted and the volume started decreasing as I drove. I looked at the fuse block in the engine bay that goes to my amps and it was reading 13.4. My lights don't dim but my stereo is constantly sounding like crap. I put a volt meter on the alternator and it's definitely bad.

 

Well, I think I'm going for the 250 amp from DC Power. I'll post some pictures once I get her in!

 

What size wire do you have running from the fuse block to the amp? I'm assuming you know how to build an audio system, I'd just like to get the obvious out of the way first.

 

good point. can have all the power in the world but without something to move that power what good is it.

 

Solid and over-engineered grounds are another thing to look into.

 

thats what i did on my truck no problems at all. where did op go?

 

Holy shit, I thought 400$ for the mean green was a chunk of change.

 

4 gauge back to a splitter and then an 8 gauge going to each amp. I'm hoping to change it so I have a 4 gauge going to both amps. The splitter I have only accepts 8 gauge at the moment, but my amps will accept a 4 gauge.

 

I'll have to double check that but when I put the volt meter on the alternator I was getting about 13.4 which was exactly what the digital read out on the fuse block was reading. Could that still mean the grounds could be bad?

 

I would definitely look into the grounds. 13.4 at the alternator is exactly where it should be. If your grounds aren't large or clean enough, it will flow voltage fine at low loads, but once you turn the volume up, the increased power draw can't move through the ground and back to the alternator. Another reason to also beef up the alternator ground.

Below is a link to a great site for information about this. It is an exceptionally long read, but if you get through it all you will have the knowledge to build the best sounding system possible.
http://www.bcae1.com/installationprimer.htm

 

I don't know that much about alternators but I thought it was supposed to read 14.4 at the alternator. Even if the volume is low on my stereo, it's still fuzzy.

I've had the system in for about a year now and it just started doing this about a month ago. The ground looks good and everything looks to be clean. I figure since Toyota gives you a 130 amp alternator to power everything stock, and then I try and power a 1000 watt stereo, it has just put too much strain on the alternator and it has started to wear out. Thus I need a larger alternator to power everything. I'm also running aftermarket headlights with CCFL angel eyes and HID bulbs which might also suck a little more power.

I ordered the new alternator yesterday, so I guess there's no going back now. I'll be upgrading the ground and the power once I put the new one in. I'll have to give that article a read when I get some time.

 

Well the Alternator finally came in today and after a trip to Napa and Ace Hardware, she is all put back together. While I was waiting for the alternator to come in I was still researching to make sure I made the right move. Before I ordered the alternator I made sure to to hear each speaker individually to make sure it was all distorted and it all seamed to be. I talked to a guy at a car audio place and he was telling me that the pre outs in head units have a tendency to go out. They didn't even cary Sony head units any more since they went out all the time. And well…I have a Sony head unit so it made me investigate a little more. And indeed the back speakers and sub sound fine when the front speakers are the ones that are distorted. Found this out after I bought the alternator of course.

After I put the alternator in the digital read out on the fuse block going to my amps was back up to 14.4 from the previous 13.4, but the speakers were still distorted. So the alternator could have been starting to go bad but that wasn't the real problem here.

A little frustrating but my own damn fault I guess.

A new head unit is in the works

Here's some pictures of the bad ass alternator though. I'll get some of it installed tomorrow when it's daylight. Enjoy

Kyle

 

well if you don't need it anymore i'll buy it off ya lol, kidding aside you should do the big 3 so you use the most out of your high output alternator.

 

Your totally right man. I've been looking into doing that. I think I'm about half way there. When I installed the alternator I added a 1/0 cable from one of the bolts on the alternator to the negative terminal on the battery and a 1/0 cable going from the positive terminal on the battery to a 250 amp fuse to the positive terminal on the alternator.

I guess I could just move the negative terminal on the alternator and put that on the chassis, and then just add an engine ground to chassis.

That should get me to completing the 'Big 3' correct?

Oh, and if you want the alternator, I honestly don't know what condition it is in without getting it tested. But you are more than welcome to it!

 

yeah if you do that it will be the big 3, lol i meant buying your new alt. ive been looking at dc power or mechman for a ho alt.