Replacing Center Support Bearing?

So I've read up a little on vibration that seems to come from the drive train. Spoke to a friend who says the Center Support Bearing needs to be replaced. Sorry for the newbie question but is the replacement as simple as dropping the rear drive shaft from the rear end, sliding it out of the center support bearing/housing and replacing the CSB? How to's I've seen on this site were more about changing out U joints and subsequently the CSB and seemed more involved with a press and such. Thanks in advance!

 

No, it's not that simple and requires the disassembly of the u-joint just behind the carrier bearing. If you're going to take apart the u-joints, you might as well replace the wear items while you're there.

Try flipping the carrier bearing 180 degrees around the drive shaft. I just did that last weekend and it got rid of a lot of my vibrations. It's cheap and only requires you to pull 2 bolts, flip the bearing, and replace the bolts.

Is the carrier bearing making noise or is it just vibrations? If it's just vibes, try my fix, if it's squeeling, then you likely need to have it replaced.

 

Like everyone else, vibes have been there for a while, upon intial acceleration. However, has gotten worse in the last week or so with a harder vibe and continues into about40-55 mph range.....really bad when going uphill. In addition, there has been a clanking, squealing sound when I pullout and proceed down the road. I thought maybe it was brakes or water pump going bad. But now that you mention the squealing, I think it may be the CSB too.

So, I'm thinking replace the CSB and the bad joints. However, I call the local dealer who says not in stock and wants $253 upfront for them to bring the CSB in. I ask for the part number and they say no. Does anyone know the part number or any place I can contact to get the correct one? The dealer asked for my VIN b/c there were different CSB's for my truck, I guess.

Thanks again!!

 

You're in Hawaii so parts might be more expensive anyways. I'd post something in the Hawaii section, there are a lot of members on the various islands who might be able to recommend good dealerships or smaller local shops.

I use Camelback Toyota in AZ, they beat my local dealership pricing and ship to my door.
http://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214329

They probably needed the VIN because not all Tacoma's have that bearing.

Here's a link to a CB that I got off TTORA:
http://www.driveshaftparts.com/center-supports/toyota-pickup-1993-2006/prod_493.html

from this thread:

 

Thanks so much for the tip! I flipped mine as well, ton of difference. Are you still running yours like that? Any issues? As I did it, I thought about the drain hole that is now on the top of the shaft. Just wanted to see if you had problems.

I did order the part from toyota, no way around, I guess. Just need to find time to get it to the shop. I work a 8-4 m-f so finding a decent mechanic on a sat can be difficult. Thanks for your help!

 

I've been running mine like that for about a month now but I've read about others who have run theirs for a lot longer. Regarding the drain hole on top, I'm going to drill a drain hole in the bottom and fill the voids with silicone. My issue is that the bearing is still fine, it's the rubber around it that's gone soft. The addition of silicone should stiffen it all up a bit and hopefully buy me some more time. If the bearing is shot, there's no getting around it, you need to replace it. If it's just vibrations and the bearing itself is still fine, then there are little fixes like I mentioned to try and solve the issue without tearing down.

 

My vibes went away when I replaced my u-joints and re-centered the carrier bearing support bracket.

(The rearmost u-joint had gotten dry and one of the bearing cups had failed, causing a bad rotational squeak when backing up; the curing of the driveline vibes was an unexpected side benefit to replacing the u-joints.)

Used to get a significant vibration on application of 50% or more throttle. No more.

BTW, replacing the u-joints is a fairly easy job, even for a novice mech. Borrow the u-joint/ball joint press from Auto Zone on their loan-a-tool program. Much better than pounding the old joints out, and having to beat the new ones in.

 

Thanks, man. I believe my bearing is still good as well. Is there a certain type of silicone you plan to use?

 

Thanks for the advice. The press was my concern. I don't believe we have an auto zone here in HI. I will look around for places that may rent tools. Thanks.

 

I might be replacing my CSB soon as well, but was informed of an alternate option. Find a pillow block with a 1.5" ID and bolt it up. It's greasable and waaaaaaaaaaaay cheaper.

 

I believe that bearing assembly is off of an F-250 if I'm not mistaken.

 

That bearing is just a run-of-the-mill pillow block from McMaster-Carr.

 

Hey TC,
How long have you been running with the generic pillow block? The rubber in mine has softened and has way too much play in it. Just wondering if you've had any issues, and curious about noise being transmitted to the frame since there's no rubber to isolate it .thanks in advance

 

Hey guys,

Just wanted to give you all an update. So, I purchased the new CSB, as it was the source of the problem according to a friend that works on tacos (would have him fix it but on another island). I took it to one mechanic to have it replaced. He ran the truck and said he believes it could be a transmission issue. Told me he didn't want to change out the part and keep "chasing a problem". He recommended seeing a Trans shop and he didn't charge me for the time he had the truck. Frustrating that he wouldn't swap out the part, but appreciate the honesty and not charging me for his time.

After contemplating, I could swear it had to be the driveline issue and not the trans...not to mention I didn't want to get sucked into a 2-3k trans job that really didn't need to happen. So, yesterday I took it to a different mechanic, told him about the vibes and changing the CSB. He swapped out the CSB and the two u-joints on the rear drive shaft b/c the vibes were still there, just not as noticeable, after replacing the CSB first.

Truck runs better than when I first bought it. I probably could have waited to change the CSB according to the 2nd mech but at least the bad vibes are gone and the connective parts are new. Such a relief! Mahalo to everyone for your help and guidance.

 

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Nice!

I didn't see your last question either, sorry. I used RTV silicone. It made the vibes a little better but they're still there. I'll get around to replacing my carrier bearing when the weather gets nice again next year.

 

These drive shafts are just standard Spicer stuff, so I'm thinking there must be some better CB alternative available through a driveline shop. Mine is still fine, but that is where I'll be looking when it goes. It would be nice to find a sturdy rubber cased alternative. I'll bet there is one.

 

There are definitely alternatives when the time times. I certainly won't put another Toyota part in there. I've heard the F-250 is a pretty built up pillow block bearing and fits the Tacoma. Read CorrosiveTendancy's post above and he tells you what size to get.

 

The center support bearing on the second generation tacoma with the two piece shaft are all the same. Some venders like NAPA do not show it by application but here it is, and the prices vary from about $40 to $150

$57 Dorman 934-401 Drive Shaft Center Support Bearing Compatible with Select Toyota Models

Dorman 934-401
DEA A6071
National/Federal Mogul HB31
Master Pro HB31
Timkin HB 31
SKF HB2380-40
NAPA HB238040

 

I think I need to replace my carrier bearing.

Something has been chirping under my truck (while in Drive) and the chirps stop once I move it into neutral. The chirping has become louder and louder. I'm going to spray some lube on the carrier bearing this afternoon to find out if for sure the carrier bearing is what's causing the chirping.

Since i'm pretty sure that i'll need to replace the carrier bearing, i'm looking into my options already. Will the quality between installing a $40 carrier bearing from Rock Auto or an OEM one from Toyota for $200, be much of a difference? If the quality/longevity is relatively the same, then why pay more, right?

Thoughts, ideas, suggestions?