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LCA Ball Joints/Hydraulic Press

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Old 10-05-2012, 07:10 AM   #2
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Yes, a press will make changing ball joints much easier. What adapter plates are you talking about?
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Old 10-05-2012, 07:22 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghost View Post
I think he means the size of the plate to match the size of the ball joint for the press. Anyone know what to expect a shop to charge just to press in and press out the ball joints? I can pull apart my front end in record time, just trying to figure out the cost comparison vs headache of doing them myself or getting them done
How are your LCA bushings? The reason I ask is you can buy the whole new LCA with bushings and a new ball joint for $260 assuming you can re-use the mounting hardware (this assumes the mounting hardware within the bushings isn't just a solid piece of rusted metal).
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Old 10-05-2012, 07:24 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghost View Post
I think he means the size of the plate to match the size of the ball joint for the press. Anyone know what to expect a shop to charge just to press in and press out the ball joints? I can pull apart my front end in record time, just trying to figure out the cost comparison vs headache of doing them myself or getting them done
Do you not know anyone that knows anyone? lol

The place I am thinking about... one of the shop owners we have been going to for YEARS for all of our collision repairs. He knows most all of my family and I suspect he might do it for free or charge like $20-$50. My uneducated guess would be that IF you take it in to a press, circlip already removed, no problems had with special adapters, I'm thinking it would probably be no more than $60. If I were you I would try to go back there while they do it... (I have a hard time trusting people messing with my stuff)
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:12 AM   #5
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They creak, I have a lot of miles but we don't exactly get moisture here or rust for that matter. I am sure some grease when I get them off will do wonders
That's if you can get them off. Toyota didn't put any grease in there from the factory so it doesn't take much to make everything rust together. I couldn't get my LCA bolts out and ended up cutting them to remove the LCA. If that's the case, on top of the $260 LCA, you have to buy another $30-40 worth of mounting hardware per side. I don't know what the ball joints cost but the bushings were almost $100 per side so at some point, just buying the whole LCA may become more cost effective than taking the time swapping out bushings and ball joints on your old LCA, especially if you have to pay a shop for the press.

Just throwing it out there. If you're handy, and do all the work yourself, it's cheaper to swap parts out, but if you're in a hurry and can't have your truck down, buying the whole LCA assembly might be something to consider.
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:22 AM   #6
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I actually just bought new LCAs. Was asking about ball joint press just because I was interested in greasable ball joints. FYI a reciprocating saw is MUCH safer than an angle angle grinder (more precise)... Attached are photos for your viewing pleasure of some of my recent hardships... Also had to cut through rear leaf spring bolts (front ones)... getting the old bushings out of the a-arms was wayyy too difficult and and I forget what other issues there were. I just ended up buying new LCAs. My 5100s on one side were seized as well. I just cut the shock off to make things easier to work with. I was 18 (4 years ago) when I installed these shocks and replicated what Toyota had already in place (so I probably didn't grease them since I didn't know any better lol)

LCA Ball Joints/Hydraulic Press-imageuploadedbytapatalk1349450270.800297.jpgLCA Ball Joints/Hydraulic Press-imageuploadedbytapatalk1349450298.887422.jpgLCA Ball Joints/Hydraulic Press-imageuploadedbytapatalk1349450324.340090.jpgLCA Ball Joints/Hydraulic Press-imageuploadedbytapatalk1349450357.366421.jpg

Maybe I'll get a build thread going when this is all done...
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:25 AM   #7
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That all looks way too familiar... giving me flashbacks to burning out the hole bushings! I got mine out the same way, good ole Sawzall
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:34 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremy_283 View Post
One other pic...

Attachment 173113
I couldn't get the rotary tools to work for me either. I toasted a bunch of Milwaulkee blades on one LCA bolt, then switched to a Lenox blade and finished the job with one blade. I dosed the crap out of everything with PB Blaster every day for a week before the project and used PB Blaster as cutting oil which helped a lot.
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:39 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugga View Post
I couldn't get the rotary tools to work for me either. I toasted a bunch of Milwaulkee blades on one LCA bolt, then switched to a Lenox blade and finished the job with one blade. I dosed the crap out of everything with PB Blaster every day for a week before the project and used PB Blaster as cutting oil which helped a lot.
The angle grinder will disintegrate and grab the grinder and throw it. (no matter how firm your grip is)

seemed to be the case for me at least...
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:42 AM   #11
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Yeah I know for sure my bolts aren't seized
Have you actually tried to take them out Ray ? I thought for sure my bolts weren't seized as I could move them but they were in fact seized to the inner bushing sleeve
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:52 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OZ-T View Post
Have you actually tried to take them out Ray ? I thought for sure my bolts weren't seized as I could move them but they were in fact seized to the inner bushing sleeve
Mine would barely rotate but they would not come out.....):
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:58 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremy_283 View Post
One other pic...

Attachment 173113
lol... I used up a bunch of Lennox blades and then changed to a cut off wheel and it cut like butter. Everyone has their own way best for them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremy_283 View Post
The angle grinder will disintegrate and grab the grinder and throw it. (no matter how firm your grip is)

seemed to be the case for me at least...
not I. no issues whatso ever. your cut off wheels look thick. try thinner next time maybe

Quote:
Originally Posted by OZ-T View Post
Have you actually tried to take them out Ray ? I thought for sure my bolts weren't seized as I could move them but they were in fact seized to the inner bushing sleeve
this.... loosen cam bolts, remove shock, and try to cycle the LCA. thats when you truly know whats going on down there.
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Old 10-05-2012, 09:02 AM   #14
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And what Will happen if I cycle it and it is siezed? At first it didn't even rotate....maybe if I hit it with a hammer
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Old 10-05-2012, 09:06 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by anthony250f View Post
And what Will happen if I cycle it and it is siezed? At first it didn't even rotate....maybe if I hit it with a hammer

cam will move with LCA as you cycle it. also will be a pita to cycle.
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Old 10-05-2012, 09:19 AM   #16
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When I Jack my truck up the cams don't move at all
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Old 10-05-2012, 09:37 AM   #18
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Mine are still pretty for 110k



that has absolutely nothing to do with it. you can't see the problem. I could also show you pics of my seized ones and they look identical to my brand new ones.

judging from the amount of rust your fubar
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Old 10-05-2012, 09:46 AM   #19
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If its siezed then shouldn't you not be able to loosen the bolt?
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Old 10-05-2012, 09:47 AM   #20
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If its siezed then shouldn't you not be able to loosen the bolt?

nope. nut comes right off bolt. bolt is seized to sleeve. bolt should not spin so if you apply torque to only the bolt then you are correct.
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