help - 2013 won't start after disconnecting the battery

Saw this same problem a week ago, Customer towed in truck and our tech after an hour figured it out. Its a module that the dealers have the aftermarket company's pre rig for their universal remote's to open the doors. Its located between the battery and fuse box. 3x3 black box with 5 wire's coming out of it.

 

I'm curious. I want to push that red button. I've never seen it before. What does it do when you push it? OOooooo I feel daring.

 

That's a port installed alarm

 

It's your immobilizer. It prevents the vehicle from being started. For every vehicle it's different for why and how it trips. When it does you usually have to take it to the dealer. Look in your manual to see what it says about this.

 

Subbed

 

What is supposed to happen is the the alarm will switch over to its internal back up battery and signal the siren. Now if only the immobilizer is armed, not the alarm, this might not happen. Additionally, upon applying new power by connecting a new battery the siren will again go off. Also, the immobilizer can get out of sequence with the alarm thus not starting.
Try Arming and Dis-arming 5 times this is a ford Procedure but it works with other manufactures. Please try and report back

 

That button is for his nitrous

 

I was actually getting ready to tell you to reverse the mod and try it because it wouldn't make sense for a company to design a car that won't start after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. But you start tampering with wires that you don't test or know what they do that is grounds for trouble. By this I mean how do you know what those wires do except for what you have read on this forum? Did you meter them and do you know what the readings you are supposed to get? Wire colors change all the time not just year to year but month to month in some cases, you have to be able test wires before tampering with them, I know this from experience :/ unfortunately. Plus it is the only other thing you messed with so why not try undoing at least for troubleshooting purposes.

 

My parents bought a used vehicle that had an aftermarket alarm system and it caused a lot of issues. Luckily it piggybacked on the existing wires and simply unplugging the control modules and removing them reverted everything back to stock and fixed the problems they were having.

 

Dealer/port installed. And as another note, when taking apart the dash on this truck, this was the only set of wires that didn't have a harness or plug. That's freakin annoying and much harder to take the lower dash out of the vehicle completely...

Any resolution you can share? I'm actually not seeing the little box you're referring to; can you point it out in the picture? (ignore the red fuse block on top of the fuse box. That is not connected to anything yet, and the box is still sealed on top so nothing has leaked in)

Not your fault. What sucks is I actually think this would have worked just fine if I didn't try to play it safe and disconnect the battery.

The manual states the immobilizer is indicated by the little car-with-key flasher. When my key is in, this indicator stops flashing meaning my key is still recognized by the car - good. However, the dealer alarm system has a "Starter disable while armed" feature that I predict is preventing the truck from starting.

Haha, thanks for trying to sugar coat it for me. But yes, I did do some research on the wires before attempting the mod and found the violet/white wire is a speed indicator to limit the output of the inverter to 100W. I did not find out what the violet wire was for, so that and the fact that wire functionality may have changed, I could have messed something up. I thought I was doing my due diligence :/. That being said, I did reverse the mod before attempting all of the below.

--------------------TROUBLESHOOTING METHODS--------------------
1. Battery disconnected for 12 hours
2. Locking/Unlocking the vehicle with key at the door handle
3. Arming/disarming the alarm system 5 times with fob
4. Disconnect battery, key in run position, reconnect battery. [this one kind of freaked me out a little before doing it because I knew once I reconnected the battery, all devices that are on under "run" would immediately be on. Because I am now activating these devices by a battery cable under my control, this could cause more arcing and blow fuses. Thankfully, nothing strange happened. I just wouldn't recommend anyone doing this just because they feel like it.]
5. Disconnect/reconnect battery. While alarming is going off, insert key to run position and press the little red button 3 times. -Once I pushed the red button 1 time, the alarm went off. I also tried to redo this one several times with the red button in different starting position, but no luck. And this one probably pissed off my neighbors the most...oops
6. Lock the vehicle, disconnect/reconnect battery, open door with key. -alarm disengaged immediately when it recognized my key unlocking the door.


Thank you to everyone for attempting me to get through this, but I feel like I'm exhausting all garage options. Might be calling a tow truck to take her in Of course, being Sunday, no service dept is open. I'll keep updating as the issue progresses.

 

Troubleshooting #6: That probably could have been what got you in this mess in the first place. You might have had your truck locked while you connected/disconnected the battery. And then your security kicked in

 

The first time this happened, the truck alarm was not armed before disconnecting the battery. When reconnecting the battery, the alarm kicked in which may have caused something to go out of sync between the dealer installed alarm system and factory equipment.

 

I feel for you man...new truck and all...just tryin' to pimp her out and then this happens...ugh...good luck and keep us posted. Maybe able to help someone else out in the future.

 

Do you see the alarm module? Can you unplug it and plug it back in.

Sorry I haven't read all the previous post, but have you tried to hit the red button while the key is turned to the run position?

Hopefully it has nothing to do with the transponder programming in the key. (it shouldn't)

 

Dealer installed alarm system. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...fter-disconnecting-battery-2.html#post5796919

 

I'm not sure where the alarm module is, but I'd assume Toyota would make this somewhat difficult since it's designed to keep someone from stealing the vehicle. I'm willing to try it out though if I can locate it.

I did try pushing the button with key in run, no dice. And when the key is inserted to the door handle or steering column, the truck recognizes it. So programming for the key should be ok.

 

You may be surpised about the alarm location. Ideally the it should be hidden and per Toyota's instructions, I'm sure it says to hide it behind the center console. I used to install mobile electronics and half the time i could look under the dash behind the knee bolster and unplug the alarm - crazy....As for the transponder part of the key, the transponder could not be programmed and it would still unlock the door, allow the steering column to unlock, etc...just not allow it to start. Usually though, if the transponder is not programmed, it will allow the vehicle to still attempt to turnover. If yours doesn't get a crank sound, the starter immobilizer of the alarm is engaged. I don't know what color the starter wire is on these trucks under the dash or if they are even accessible. I've only taken the knee bolster down to removed the DRL on mine. If the ignition harness is accessible and you can get to the starter wire, you could probe the wire while attempting to turn the truck over. If no 12 volts, then the immobilizer of the alarm is doing its job.

I will continue to look for ideas to help you - I understand how frustrating this can be, especially on a new vehicle. Hopefully it is just something easy; can't see it being anything else.

 

Have you tried opening the door, holding the red button in and then turning the key to the on position while still holding the button?

You should have received some documentation for the aftermarket alarm in addition to the usual manuals.

Any brand name on the alarm module or anything to tell who makes it?

Also, maybe post this problem on www.the12volt.com

There are a lot of knowledgeable people on there with the low voltage systems, alarms and such.