Just applied Fluid Film for winter

Motor oil sprayed on cars is illegal so is red lead that was also used, has been for years and probably one of the worst things to use is used motor oil it's full of all kinds of nasty things water, acid, gasoline just to name a few common things you change the oil for a reason. If it's some thing you think you need to do buy a gallon of new oil.

 

Shop around you should be able top buy it for close to $30. $10 rust protection for 3 years not a bad deal. It does smell weird.

 

not WAX, parrifin, which in the US is candle wax, but in GB it is kerosene...

bar and chain oil works because it tacks up nice.

Personally, I think pressure washing followed by either a POR or KBR product works pretty good. On the other hand, I haven't to repair rust damage on a vehicle newer mid-80's. Perhaps this winter, the 62 Town Wagon will come in the shop to sweat some plate on the old rust holes.

And those motor oil studies? they were done in Cincinnati with some NIOSH/CDC money. They got their used motor oil from rental car fleets with AVERAGE time to change of 18,000 miles. I don't think the stuff we drain out every 3k-5k is going to look like that OR have that level of contaminants. I know some of the guys who ran that study also...good folks.


Howard

 

So, if this stuff never really cures to a hard shell, does it stay tacky and collect dirt and debris?

 

Correct, it never dries and, because of that, will collect grime over time.

 

This is from the Fluid Film website: http://www.fluid-film.com/faq.html

Does FLUID FILM attract dirt?
Because FLUID FILM remains wet, it will get an initial dusting upon application, but because it contains no solvents and will not become sticky, it will not gum up or create a build up of dirt.

 

For decades I have used a product called LPS #3 that sounds very similar to Fluid Film. It is a preservative oil/wax that is desolved in solvent. It penetrates even deep cracks. The solvent evaporates pretty quickly and leaves the waxy film.

I miss the days when trucks were simply self oiling . You poured it in the top and everything from the motor on back stayed oiled

 

I think I'll get a sample and give it a look then, thanks!

 

I bought 2 spray cans of Fluid Film 11 days ago and sprayed my frame. Two cans was just enough to spray the inside and outside of the frame, inside of my rear bumper, the inside rear bed panels near the bumper from underneath, and the entire hitch assembly. I might buy another can to spray the spare tire and leaf springs. The smell is not to pleasant, after 11 days its starting to not be so noticeable. After I showed my dad how thick and nice it covers the frame, he now wants me to get some cans and do his truck.

 

Air paint sprayer won't spray it has to be a high pressure gun Wagner electric sprayer will or a high pressure paint sprayer gun. A gallon will do 3 trucks and I stand corrected I said it was around $35 but it's up to near 50 now still a cheap price for a good product.

 

Does this stuff spray on clear? or does it have a certain color to it?

 

I had the free sample sent to me but the idea of the FF never fully evaporating, gave me pause because, how much dust will collect on my frame when I off-road? If you spray your frame with a garden hose does the red dust wash off? How bad is it?

 

Didn't you just answer the question? "Modified". A cheap Wagner sprayer will spray it just fine $70 at Lowes/Home Depot, it also will spray paint including latex. If you have a compressor with enough CFM's by all means buy the cheaper one to do your truck my point was you can't put it in a common paint gun it won't work. The people at Fluid Film are really nice people give them a call if you have questions about their product I did and that's exactly what they told me.

 

I used a paint brush and my hands when I did my truck. What an awful, awful time that was.

I bought an 11.75 oz can and a gallon can. The spray can was easy to use and I did the rear quarters and door bottoms on my Subaru.

The gallon can had the consistency of shampoo. I got a garden sprayer pump cheap thinking that'd work well but it didn't spray well at all. I ended up just spraying the stuff on with the sprayer and using my hands to smear it all over the frame. I did 360 degrees on it as well as the crossmembers, rear bumper, rear leafs and all mounts and the tow hitch. I also painted it on the bottoms of the rockers and the seam weld. I used the remainder of the spray can for the holes in the rocker (didn't pull the plugs, now thinking I should have), the base of the front fenders (where my old Toyota had rust) as well as the bottoms of the doors.

I do play on grabbing another spray can the wheel arches and most likely the bottoms of the floors as well.

As has been said the stuff smells laughably terrible. I had to force myself not to puke a few times. The only thing I've smelled that was worse was the used Subaru LSD fluid when I drained the rear diff in my car. I ended up having to toss all the clothes I was wearing that day as I had it all overs. That being said if this stuff works I'll be its biggest proponent.

I got all my stuff at Grainger. Had no trouble buying w/o a commercial account.

 

Edit: I also did as much of the rear bed sides as I could reach including all the bottoms of the panels. I can't get over how thin the sheetmetal is there.

 

Does anyone know of a discount or coupon code for TW members if ordering from Kellsport?

 

what kind of oil sprays are you talking about?