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Anybody here replace their clutch or throw out bearing yet?

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Old 10-29-2012, 09:41 PM   #21
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LOL at least I am lucky at something. Too bad it was not the Powerball.
OK, I finally clicked joes05tacoma's link, to find out you are the guy, now I feel dumb. Oh well, I'm used to it. Looks like a combination of good truck, good driver, and good maintenance to me, well done!
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:20 AM   #22
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Aisin is the good one, LUK is the poopy one.

hahaha .... U said poppy




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Originally Posted by jassco View Post
My 2010 had this part and it is still available today. I'm not sure if they revised the design but kept the same part number or not. It causes more issues on the heavier chassis like access cabs and 4x4 units obviously.
I hope they r not still selling that part.
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:40 AM   #23
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Old 10-30-2012, 07:24 PM   #24
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O.k. now I'm a little lost. I just got my Aison kit and noticed that there was no pilot bearing inside. All of the pics on ebay or whatever of the kit number show one included like this pic,



but it never came inside the box and wasn't listed on the contents. The description on the website said 1- pilot bearing (if needed). So I'm wondering if it is necessary to change it in the first place. My repair guide shows an input shaft bearing. I looked around on the internet and can't figure out what to order or if I need to replace it in the first place. Any ideas?

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Old 10-30-2012, 07:45 PM   #25
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I'm assuming the pilot bearing is the throw out bearing. No u do not HAVE to replace it with a new clutch. Yes it is a good idea though because it would be kinda dumb if u just put ur new clutch in and then u have to do it all again because now ur throw out bearing is bad. But having said that, most new clutches don't come with a new TOB and they are usually about $60
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:55 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allmotorrex View Post
I'm assuming the pilot bearing is the throw out bearing. No u do not HAVE to replace it with a new clutch. Yes it is a good idea though because it would be kinda dumb if u just put ur new clutch in and then u have to do it all again because now ur throw out bearing is bad. But having said that, most new clutches don't come with a new TOB and they are usually about $60
I'm all confused now. I was watching some 1st gen clutch videos and assumed there was a pilot valve on the 2nd gen to replace. I guess that input shaft bearing in my repair guide is something else. I did get the clutch release bearing aka throw out bearing with the kit though.
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Old 10-31-2012, 07:35 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by saugus View Post
I'm all confused now. I was watching some 1st gen clutch videos and assumed there was a pilot valve on the 2nd gen to replace. I guess that input shaft bearing in my repair guide is something else. I did get the clutch release bearing aka throw out bearing with the kit though.
Yeah I don't know of this pilot valve u speak of. The only things u should be replacing are the TOB, pressure plate, and clutch disk. Read through that write up briefly in my sig, that should be everything u need to do
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Old 10-31-2012, 07:39 AM   #28
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The pilot bearing is the "input shaft bearing", not the TOB. I recommend replacing that every time, as that is what the tip of your transmission's input shaft rides in. I have yet to run into a 1st or 2nd gen Tacoma that does not have one.
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Old 10-31-2012, 08:46 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaToy1997 View Post
I have yet to run into a 1st or 2nd gen Tacoma that does not have one.
You haven't done a 1GR / 6spd clutch yet then, there isn't even a "nose" on the input shaft. Thats in my '06

I can't say for the 4 banger / 5 spd crowd though, and I certainly agree, if it has a pilot bearing, replace it, every time, and replace the release bearing (AKA throw out bearing) every time.

Edit, looking at allmotorex's photos in his link, the 2TR 4cyl / 5 spds do use a pilot bearing.
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:53 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by landphil View Post
You haven't done a 1GR / 6spd clutch yet then, there isn't even a "nose" on the input shaft. Thats in my '06

I can't say for the 4 banger / 5 spd crowd though, and I certainly agree, if it has a pilot bearing, replace it, every time, and replace the release bearing (AKA throw out bearing) every time.

Edit, looking at allmotorex's photos in his link, the 2TR 4cyl / 5 spds do use a pilot bearing.
Not yet I haven't run into one. done a lot of clutches on all sorts of trucks over the years though. I have seen a few front wheel drive cars that don't have pilots, but not a truck that I can recall.
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Old 11-01-2012, 09:29 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by landphil View Post
You haven't done a 1GR / 6spd clutch yet then, there isn't even a "nose" on the input shaft. Thats in my '06

I can't say for the 4 banger / 5 spd crowd though, and I certainly agree, if it has a pilot bearing, replace it, every time, and replace the release bearing (AKA throw out bearing) every time.

Edit, looking at allmotorex's photos in his link, the 2TR 4cyl / 5 spds do use a pilot bearing.
I wasn't sure what this was in the photo:


Anyway the pilot bearing is only $8 at the dealer so I ordered it. Autozone has a puller for $15 that I'll buy if the wire hanger tool I plan to use doesn't work. I'll get a few pics when I tear down to show the damage and obstacles.
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Old 11-01-2012, 11:44 AM   #32
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Wire hanger tool won't do it. That bearing is press-fit. It requires a puller (as you mentioned) to remove it. Installation can be done with a socket of the proper size, but be careful that you don't damage the race, as it is easily distorted.
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Old 11-01-2012, 05:44 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaToy1997 View Post
Not yet I haven't run into one. done a lot of clutches on all sorts of trucks over the years though. I have seen a few front wheel drive cars that don't have pilots, but not a truck that I can recall.
'Twas a first for me as well.
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Old 11-01-2012, 05:47 PM   #34
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Old 11-01-2012, 05:58 PM   #35
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There is another way to remove a pilot bearing, provided the bearing with seals are fully intact. Locate a steel pin or cut off bolt (use smooth shank) that fits the bore of the bearing as snugly as posssible, then add a wrap or two of electrical tape as needed for a good snug fit, so you can just push it into the bore by hand. Pack the entire pocket behind the bearing and the bearing bore with the thickest grease you have, EP2 should work. Ideally, you don't want any air left. Then, hammer the pin into the bore that is packed with grease. The bearing will be forced out toward you by the grease, much like a hydraulic cylinder. You will have to top up the grease a few times as the pin bottoms in the pocket. Clean the grease out when you're done, and you've got it made. Of couse, it won't work if the seals are shot, and a good puller is faster and a good investment if you do more than the occasional clutch.
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