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re-gearing 4.0L 4.11-4.56

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by dont surf805, Dec 9, 2012.

  1. Dec 9, 2012 at 8:28 PM
    #1
    dont surf805

    dont surf805 [OP] New Member

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    josh
    Thousand Oaks
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    31" BFG mudd terrains, all pro front bumper and skid, Black 17" Robby Gordon wheels. TRD exhaust and air intake.
    Hey everyone this is my first post. This is my third Tacoma and my first one to custom build. My dilemma is that Im trying to decide if I should go 4.11 and 33s or 4.56 and 33s or 35s. I also am tring to decide on a 4 or six inch lift. So I guess ultimately Im looking for people who have the 4.0L do you like your 33s with 4.11 or 4.56 and do you like your 35s with 4.56? Looking for gas mileage, freeway RPMs and power. This is my DD and Ill be using it mostly for freeway driving but will be used off road to access surf breaks in mexico where I have to cross beaches, rivers, mud and cobblestones. Im currently running 31" BFG mud terrains with 3.73 stock gears.
     
  2. Dec 9, 2012 at 9:44 PM
    #2
    Dino30

    Dino30 Member

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    33s, 3 in body lift, cb, homemade sliders and winch mount, smitty 8000lb , warn 9000lb.
    I started with 3.55's and 31's on my truck . went to 4.10's and 33's .. I wish i would have went a little bigger on the gears .. id say go with the 4.56 and 33's .. or 4.88 and 35's . With you already having 3.73's i wouldnt bother with the 4.10's not enough of a change to notice .
     
  3. Dec 9, 2012 at 10:53 PM
    #3
    BradyT88

    BradyT88 Well-Known Member

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    Since you seem mostly concerned with maintaining fuel mileage 4.56's would be best. Only raises you 150 rpm with 35's and 300 rpm with 33's at 75 mph from factory tires and gears.

    I am running 4.88's with 33's and love them! Lots of power in the wheels, but I lost an MPG or two with I re-geared, (Could be from the heavier foot:rolleyes:) Runs about 2650-2700 at 75 mph though.
     
  4. Dec 9, 2012 at 11:00 PM
    #4
    BAMFTACO

    BAMFTACO Another day another beer

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    Kings bruh
    Dang 4.88 with 33 your truck must crawl.

    And op just go with 4.56 good for 33 or 35
     
  5. Dec 9, 2012 at 11:03 PM
    #5
    BradyT88

    BradyT88 Well-Known Member

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    More like haul ass. Definitely not like an S/C can, but better than factory for sure!

    It crawls ok in 4Lo, but realistically just changing the diff gear isn't very significant to your crawl ratio. Not like a crawlbox anyway.
     
  6. Dec 9, 2012 at 11:09 PM
    #6
    BAMFTACO

    BAMFTACO Another day another beer

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    Kings bruh
    Gotcha
     
  7. Dec 10, 2012 at 9:39 PM
    #7
    dont surf805

    dont surf805 [OP] New Member

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    So lets pretend that i wanted my factory power back would 4.11 be enough to run the 33s with that power while keeping the RPMs down around 2200 at 75mph? If I go 4.56 and 35s what kind of wear can I expect my truck to have? Also If I go with a 4-6inch lift what would be the lowest lift for 33s vs 35s and what kind of modifications do I need to do to the truck after the lift and regearing to make sure the truck is safe and dependable?
     
  8. Dec 10, 2012 at 9:49 PM
    #8
    BradyT88

    BradyT88 Well-Known Member

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    4.11's will get you back to factory rpm at 75mph but not necessarily back to factory power since the tires will be most likely be heavier than factory not just bigger around, plus I'm not so sure that going from 3.73's to 4.11's is worth the $2000+ it costs to regear... (unless you can regear it yourself, then it would be cheaper)

    A 3" lift will accommodate 33's will very minimal trimming. A 6" should run 35's with a little more trimming but not much. All depends on the width of the tire though.
     
  9. Dec 13, 2012 at 8:18 AM
    #9
    Janusz

    Janusz Member

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    HI Everyone, I'm going to built my first custom taco for off-road racing as well.
    I'm going to put 34" tires, but still wonna lower gears that original.

    I was planning to put 4,88 gears (or 5,29 if possible) - what sets do you reccomend - Yukon? Nitro? original Toyota gears?
     
  10. Dec 13, 2012 at 8:38 AM
    #10
    BradyT88

    BradyT88 Well-Known Member

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    5.29 is possible in the rear diff only, so if you are a pre-runner then you can do 5.29's, if 4wd then you have to get 4.88's. I believe I am running Nitro gears. I bought assembled diffs from East Coast Gear Supply.

    About racing, I would talk with MJP2. He used to race his Tacoma. Username could probably help you out too. I don't think he ever raced his, but it is built for it and he beats on his rig hard!

    MJP2
    [​IMG]
    Build thread: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-builds/17641-mjp2s-build.html

    Username:
    DSC06895_11991ed31cc16fa80e77e8726050956f6e9f7feb.jpg
    Build thread: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-builds/233960-project-apocalypto.html
     
  11. Feb 24, 2013 at 8:39 PM
    #11
    ColtsTRD

    ColtsTRD Well-Known Member

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    So after going through this and seeing the responses...it seems the 4.56 is the better option.

    Thanks for the info fellas, ordering up my gears from East Coast Gear Supply in the morning. :cool:
     
  12. Feb 24, 2013 at 8:48 PM
    #12
    Wicked 2007

    Wicked 2007 Well-Known Member

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    2007 Tacoma Double Cab SB 4WD - Auto -TRD Off Road - Icon Billet UCA - 8" ORI Front Struts - Bilstein 5100 11" RCD Shock - AllPro Expo Springs - Demello Sliders - Tom Woods 1 Piece Driveshaft - 16x8 Mojave Teflon Rims - Locker Mod - Locker Guard - 35" MT MTZ's - ARB Bumper - Warn 8000 winch w/synthetic line - All-Pro Front Skid/Transmission Skid/Rear Armor - ARB Front Locker - Nitro 4.56 gears - Marlin 4.7 crawl box - Twin Stick FJ t-case - ATO high clearance rear bumper
    If I could do it over with 35's I would go 4.88. Bought 4.56 for my 33's and loved it. Now that I have 35 I wish I bumped it up
     
  13. Feb 24, 2013 at 8:50 PM
    #13
    650H1

    650H1 Well-Known Member

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    whats it running everyone to regear, pricewise? cost of gears and install...
     
  14. Feb 24, 2013 at 8:51 PM
    #14
    tostidos

    tostidos Well-Known Member

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    6.0 is common in the racing world with 35-37s im going with 5.83 on 35s. as for brand, im not 100%. also are you going to race on a stock rear end?
     
  15. Feb 24, 2013 at 8:53 PM
    #15
    ColtsTRD

    ColtsTRD Well-Known Member

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    Its gonna cost me around 650 for the gears, master install kit and installation.


    (just the rear)
     
  16. Feb 24, 2013 at 8:54 PM
    #16
    650H1

    650H1 Well-Known Member

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    from ECGS? i have to do front AND rear... you think price will be the same? i dont even know what the fuck to buy to do this....
     
  17. Feb 24, 2013 at 8:58 PM
    #17
    ColtsTRD

    ColtsTRD Well-Known Member

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    I'm just doing the rear as i'm 2wd. Yeah ECGS :)


    You'll need gears front and rear, master install kit for both ends and then install prices will vary...there's a place out here that'll do the install for 170
     
  18. Feb 24, 2013 at 9:00 PM
    #18
    BradyT88

    BradyT88 Well-Known Member

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    I don't trust myself to set gears up right, so I ordered the preassembled diffs from ECGS and then swapped the diffs in myself and mailed the old ones back to ECGS for the core. Cost me $2250 including shipped to me and back to ECGS. EDIT: Price includes $900 ARB airlocker.

    You're a 2wd?
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2013
  19. Feb 24, 2013 at 9:01 PM
    #19
    MIAtaco

    MIAtaco Well-Known Member

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    does the 2.7l 2wd have the same stock ratio as the 4.0?
     
  20. Feb 24, 2013 at 9:02 PM
    #20
    BradyT88

    BradyT88 Well-Known Member

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    That's pretty good! Oh I should mention that the $2250 included a $900 ARB airlocker for the front diff.

    I know a guy who dropped his Tacoma off at Just Differentials up in the NorthWest and it cost him about $2700+tax for the same exact setup as me.
     

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