i hate the dealer with a passion

A lot of the time, where penetrating spray will not free up a very seized component I found that applying a little heat to it using a torch will free it right up. The heat from the torch breaks the rust by allowing the metal to expand. If you ever run into a situation like this again, try this. Like on a jammed tie rod etc.

 

So - after reading about seized LCA bolts - and the lack of factory lubrication on these -

With a new truck, would it make sense to lube these up to prevent this future headache/cash drain?

 

It sounds like It I might have to hit them later myself. I don't want this happening.

 

The bolts sieze to the inner sleeve of the bushing, it's very very difficult to get any sort of heat to those parts without melting the rubber in the process. I agree with the head application freeing up rusty components but it doesn't really work in this case.

If you plan on keeping the truck for a while, I think it'd be worthwhile to pull the bolts, lube them and replace them. Just mark from the cam bolt to the frame so you can get your alignment back to where it was (or pay to have it re-aligned afterwards.

 

I agree, melting the rubber would suck. I meant it more as a footnote to the next guy trying to free something seized where there is no rubber around.

 

Yes

 

Wholly hell that was painful to read. PUNCTUATION!

 

Lol I am getting a kick out of just reading the comments about the lack of punctuation in several posts on this thread I believe that the LCA is fuct as they say and you are going to have to replace that which is understandable since the truck is 7 years old now there you go I am sorry it is so expensive for you good luck

 

There is a product we use in the air conditioning business called "Supco 88". It is a penetrate that works very well, but be sure to use rubber gloves as it penetrates the pores and has to wear off, washing won't work. I put it in a Zoom Spout oiler to make it easier to apply. Either this or Kroil is what I use most. After applying be sure to tap the object with something that is heavy and metal to set up vibrations to help the penetrate.

http://www.supco.com/Chemicals%20pg7.htm

 

Great news guys took to a shop I've dealt with in the past, they not only were able to get the bolts off they found one of them was not even tight at all, I spent $85 for an alignment, issue resolved. Now I just gotta figure out why there's a clunking noise when I put it from drive to reverse and vice-versa

 

That has to be a great relief!

 

I was so freaking happy hahaha

 

Wow, lesson learned from that dealership. Sounds like they just want to cut corners.

As for your clunking, check your u-joints in the driveline.

 

I hate the dealers too.. Took mine in or an oil change.. They forgot to hook up some vacuum lines AND left a oil bottle under my hood, which got wedged into the alternator pulley and started to smoke/catch fire while I was driving to take family xmas photos.

 

Think you could elaborate here? I have worked in several independent shops as well as dealerships, and all the places I have worked out were pretty dang picky about the experience and knowledge of their alignment guys. I had to work as an apprentice under an alignment tech for 6 months before the company would let me begin to do any on my own. And every dealership I have worked at requires that you be ASE certified in Suspension and steering before you can perform alignments.

You can't back flush a torque converter. They are a pretty simple flow thru design anyway, so they flush well normally. You are right on with the fliters. A lot of vehicles these days have a fine mesh metal screen instead of a filter anymore. Most manufacturers (including GM) will actually tell you that no power flushing is ever needed. Businesses use it as a selling tool and try to convince people falsely that they have to get it done.

Yeah, whenever I install new control arms I use graphite to lubricate the bolts and bushings. It lasts dang near forever, and won't wash off.

Glad to hear you have gotten it taken care of! I would suggest after that visit to pick a new dealership to get service done at.

 

impressive...they charged you on avg %62-64 parts mark-up.

maybe the next time you have work done and they mess something up, demand to pay only the <list> price..

 

For some reason I never get tired of seeing posts from BamaToy1997

I don't know why.

 

Yeah, you would think that after I called them twice to ensure that I was getting a full flush before I took it in they would have given me a full flush. If I wanted a drain and fill I would have just done it myself and not drove the 180mile round trip to get it done. I just wish I would have looked under there and inspected the cooler lines before I drove it off. Guess they won that one.

Oh, best part of my experience was when the service manager gave me my receipt he said, "we went ahead and threw in the extra 8qts of WS fluid, and only charged ya for four qts." Thanks, douchbag.

 

How long has it been since the driveline zerks got greased?

Yeah... i even went in and sat in the service managers office while he explained the whole flushing process. The day of the appointment the guy at the desk wrote it up as a flush. I went back to talk with the tech and he says hell no we only do drain/fill on these trucks. After telling the guy at the desk this he decided maybe he better lower the price.
Took it in for the first gear oil change (front/rear diffs and tranfer case.) They charged me for 11 quarts when it only takes around 7. Asked the service manager... his answer was "well, sometimes they take more." WTF?? I wanted them to bust loose the drain/fill plugs for the first time... i'll be doing it myself from now on.