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Do i need a new water pump??

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by chippy44, Dec 22, 2012.

  1. Dec 22, 2012 at 12:22 PM
    #1
    chippy44

    chippy44 [OP] Active Member

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    The other day my check engine light came on, i noticed the coolant was almost empty! :eek: I saw no change in engine temp but went to local Toyota dealer and got some coolant and added. Yesterday i changed the oil and noticedc pink crust around some bolts and a small amount of liquid dripping..im guessing its coolant.
    From what i have read it could be a bad water pump, i have no idea if /when it was changed..what do y'all think??
    2006 Prerunner 126k
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  2. Dec 22, 2012 at 12:58 PM
    #2
    seric007

    seric007 Well-Known Member

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    no, pump is fine. block is cracked. new motor.


    :wink:
     
  3. Dec 22, 2012 at 1:01 PM
    #3
    fixnfly

    fixnfly Well-Known Member

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    It could be the pump or o-ring that seals it. Either way the pump needs to come off so it might as well be replaced at 126K miles. It's also a good time for a coolant flush and hose replacement if you have not done that yet.
     
  4. Dec 22, 2012 at 1:14 PM
    #4
    Speed Freek

    Speed Freek Tacoma Whisperer!

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    Looks possibly like its coming from the weep hole, time for replacement.

    So the answer is YES.
     
  5. Dec 22, 2012 at 4:03 PM
    #5
    chippy44

    chippy44 [OP] Active Member

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    Thanks for the replies
    time to break out the Haynes book then, anyone have any tips? Special tools needed..is there a how -to on here? Hmm maybe i should search.
    i have only once changed a water pump before on a dodge ram, and that is about all i have done. Time to get to know my Tacoma better!
    thanks
     
  6. Dec 22, 2012 at 5:02 PM
    #6
    oladawg

    oladawg Member

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    I just had to replace mine. I decided I didn't want to attempt it. Dealership charged $642.00. Truck has 80,000. A little surprised it went out at that mileage but it did.
     
  7. Dec 22, 2012 at 8:16 PM
    #7
    iroh

    iroh Well-Known Member

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    I found this for ya

    Service records say my factory pump puked out at 23k miles. Truck was only a year and a half old. At least yours made six digits.

    Truth be told the new one has a very very slow leak again, which sucks... but oh well. It only needs a couple cups of coolant every 6 months or so.
     
  8. Dec 22, 2012 at 8:23 PM
    #8
    Utard

    Utard Well-Known Member

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    ------------------------------------------------------------ Stabilus.EZDown.Tailgate http://www.ezdown.com/home.php ----------------------------------------------- Tekonsha.Primus.IQ.Trailer.brake http://www.tekonsha.com/content/default.aspx---------------------------------------------------------------- Leer 180 CC http://www.leer.com/Truck-Caps#------------------------------------------------ Firestone Air Rite Air Bags--------------------------------------Kargomaster Rack
    WOW for a water pump they sure did over engineer that thing.^^

    Water pumps are normally easy to do its just getting all the crap out of the way to do it.

    I recommend getting a special wire brush that is made for getting the old gasket material off that goes in a drill. It can be easy to mess up the area the new gasket goes on. And a torque wrench get one of those.
     
  9. Dec 22, 2012 at 9:39 PM
    #9
    chippy44

    chippy44 [OP] Active Member

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    Thanks for the link, that will give me some reference
    is a Torque wrench really necessary?
    Rockauto seems to be the place to order from..Thanks
     
  10. Dec 23, 2012 at 4:09 AM
    #10
    fixnfly

    fixnfly Well-Known Member

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    If you want to do it right , yes.
     
  11. Dec 23, 2012 at 4:51 AM
    #11
    Janster

    Janster Old & Forgetful

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    I'll bet its the water pump and/or the seal on the block of the water pump.

    At 126K miles it's long overdue to get changed anyway.

    On my 1st gen truck - the water pump leaked at 85k.

    Yes, a torque wrench IS NECESSARY. The torque on the water pump bolts is critical and needs to be consistent. If its not consistent, it'll leak again prematurely (due to uneven pressure on the gasket).
     
  12. Dec 23, 2012 at 8:48 AM
    #12
    Utard

    Utard Well-Known Member

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    With the soft metal and the number of bolts yes.
     
  13. Dec 23, 2012 at 8:30 PM
    #13
    chippy44

    chippy44 [OP] Active Member

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    Ok a Torque wrench it is then..Thanks

    Does anyone know if there is a new O-ring that comes with a new water pump? I am going to order real soon, i just want to make sure i get all i need to get this done right.
    Thanks again TW!
     
  14. Dec 24, 2012 at 9:14 AM
    #14
    skytower

    skytower Well-Known Member

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    Hitch and wiring, aux back-up light, rear strobe lights, radio and underseat sub.
    If you get the factory water pump, it will either come with an o-ring, or a tube of sealant.

    Mark routing of the serp belt, remove fan, remove belt, remove pump, reverse. Easy job, 2.5 hrs in and out.
    Make sure you run the engine with the radiator cap open, and continually top it off as the air inside is displaced.
    You can pick up a funnel adapter for the radiator cap: http://www.handsontools.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Radiator-Funnel-Kit_p_5079.html?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=CSE&utm_term=Lisle%2024610%20Spill-Free%20Radiator%20Funnel%20Kit&utm_campaign=BROI It makes it easier.
     
  15. Dec 24, 2012 at 12:02 PM
    #15
    chippy44

    chippy44 [OP] Active Member

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    Thanks for the replies, i have a Haynes manual and yes i will be referring to it every 10 seconds :D.
    I do have a pressure washer..you think i should clean the engine area with that..just not on full power
     
  16. Dec 24, 2012 at 12:58 PM
    #16
    fixnfly

    fixnfly Well-Known Member

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    I would never pressure wash an engine but that's just me. A garden hose with some type of aluminum friendly cleaner would be fine.
    I've never done a pump change on my Toyota but you may want to make sure all the bolts are the same length when you remove them so they go back into the same hole. If you notice a longer or shorter bolt, put it back in the same hole.
     
  17. Dec 24, 2012 at 1:42 PM
    #17
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    I would suggest against using a wire wheel of any kind unless the surface is cast iron. An aluminum block engine would get damaged too easily with a wire wheel, and the gasket would have trouble properly sealing. I am not saying that it will fail every time, just saying that you increase the risk. Use a cleaning disk which uses a hard rubber set of "fingers" that will remove the gasket material without the risk of damaging aluminum.
     
  18. Dec 24, 2012 at 9:21 PM
    #18
    92dlxman

    92dlxman drinking whats on sale

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    sad i cant even do my "and make sure and replace it with a factory toyota part" preach if yours failed that early and others have had similar/ earlier failures. the last pump i replaced was on my 92 at 200k miles. and im pretty sure it only leaked because i let it sit dry for a couple months.

    good luck. and if your the guy who already thought to get a manual, it will be an easy job. might as well replace the belt and t-stat while your there, funds permitting
     
  19. Dec 29, 2012 at 2:18 PM
    #19
    chippy44

    chippy44 [OP] Active Member

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    ok so i am in the middle of replacing the water pump via my Haynes Manual..and it just seems like theres a whole lot to it!!
    Now bear with me here..im not too wrench savvy but MAF sensor..air filter housing etc etc all have to come out??? and the alternator too?
    I have read some posts here including the link that iroh posted and what others are saying seems far easier than what i am dealing with.
    I have the air filter housing off and was just about to remove the alternator when i figured i would ask y'all at TW what you did..just seems like a lot of work and i aint got to the pump yet :eek:
    The new pump did not come with a new O ring, should i get one? do autozone/pep boys etc. have these?
    Just got another 2 gallons of coolant from stealership..after finding the drain on the engine block..THAT in itself was a bitch to find
    Thanks
     
  20. Dec 29, 2012 at 2:19 PM
    #20
    chippy44

    chippy44 [OP] Active Member

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    Also the Tensioner pulley..does it have to come out ?
     

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