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DBLC/SB + ARE Cap + 15' Canoe....Suggestions

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Old 01-09-2013, 11:54 AM   #1
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DBLC/SB + ARE Cap + 15' Canoe....Suggestions

Hey All, I'm looking to put a rack to carry my 15' Mad River canoe. I currently have an A.R.E. X series cap on my short bed double cab TRD Sport. Those are the details, but I'm wondering if anyone has experience carrying a canoe with track mount racks on the cap or if racks mounted to cap and to the cab is necessary to clear the cab?

Any configure recommendations/experiences are appreciated.

Cheers!
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Old 01-09-2013, 12:00 PM   #2
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Interesting question. I have a century cap on the way with a roof rack for precisely the same thing. I have a coleman ram-x 15' canoe, and bought the cap w/ rack to transport it. From all the pics I've seen I believe the rack will provide enough clearance for the front of the canoe. Another question is, where do you tie down at? I typically use ratchet straps and would like to attach the canoe to the truck and not just the rail system on the cap.
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Old 01-09-2013, 12:23 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by MWall View Post
Interesting question. I have a century cap on the way with a roof rack for precisely the same thing. I have a coleman ram-x 15' canoe, and bought the cap w/ rack to transport it. From all the pics I've seen I believe the rack will provide enough clearance for the front of the canoe. Another question is, where do you tie down at? I typically use ratchet straps and would like to attach the canoe to the truck and not just the rail system on the cap.
I would be interested to see how your canoe fits atop your rig. My old Nissan frontier had a leer cap with yakima racks. I used straps to secure the canoe where it layed centered on the rack. It just barely cleared the front of the cab. I felt confident that the canoe was secured at that mounting point. For example, I've driven long distances on the highway without any issues. Post pictures of the truck, cap and canoe when you get your new setup!
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:45 AM   #4
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will do. cap should be here in another week. i'm going to be really torqued if this doesn't fit! also some concern over how well it is attached (strapped) to the truck since wind is quite an issue in the spring especially when added with highway speeds.
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:24 AM   #5
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I can answer this.



That is a 14.5' solo woodstrip canoe I built. I needed to use my front rack bar and the rear bar of the bed rack I built. It wasn't going to clear adequately otherwise.

I have a 17' Wenonah as well, same thing, I need both to clear the cab.
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:34 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MWall View Post
will do. cap should be here in another week. i'm going to be really torqued if this doesn't fit! also some concern over how well it is attached (strapped) to the truck since wind is quite an issue in the spring especially when added with highway speeds.
Mwall, Any luck with cap rack? It looks like a factory rack with a cap rack will be the best way to carry the canoe. I'm curious to hear how your rig worked out?

Looking forward to wetting the canoe soon....need to get my rack situated.
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:37 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by nat View Post
I can answer this.



That is a 14.5' solo woodstrip canoe I built. I needed to use my front rack bar and the rear bar of the bed rack I built. It wasn't going to clear adequately otherwise.

I have a 17' Wenonah as well, same thing, I need both to clear the cab.
Nice canoe, Nat. I think i'm dealing with a 15' canoe (mad river Intrigue). It looks like I have two options: put a factory rack on as well as the cap rack or use the cap rack plus a third bar over the dbl cab. How do you like the factory rack...I've read good things about them. Not a fan of how they look on BSP colored trucks, like mine, though.
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Old 03-05-2013, 08:00 PM   #8
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this works for me: Yakima bar on cab, thule x-sporter in the bed
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Old 03-06-2013, 05:50 PM   #9
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Just wanted to let you guys know that Harbor Freight and Northern Tool both have small boat trailers for under $300.00. They are for a 12 ft boat but I let my 15.5 ft canoe hang a little off the back. It's a lot easier than lifting on and off the top of your trucks. Been there done that.
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Old 03-06-2013, 05:51 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nat View Post
I can answer this.



That is a 14.5' solo woodstrip canoe I built. I needed to use my front rack bar and the rear bar of the bed rack I built. It wasn't going to clear adequately otherwise.

I have a 17' Wenonah as well, same thing, I need both to clear the cab.
Are your tires 255/85/16 ?
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Old 03-27-2013, 12:19 AM   #11
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Had to chime in.

Nat. Are those 255 or they 235!

Just a word if caution for anyone transporting a canoe. The truck bed can move independent of the can. A tightly strapped canoe can experience some pretty rough forces if you are leaving smooth roads...

Something as solid as a Coleman ram x probably won't be affected. Lighter canoes don't like it...

If you have a rack on your cap you can always add canoe stops. Basically an l bracket. Not only do they provide lateral support but they will life the boat up another inch or so...

Just something to be conscious of.
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Old 03-27-2013, 04:07 AM   #12
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Canoe on Cap

I had Yakima Tracks and racks on my A.R.E. cap and had no problems hauling multiple canoes/kayaks and even had two rafts stacked once. You should have no problems with clearing the cab of the truck. Make sure you use good camstraps when tying the boat down. I've always used Northwest River Supply (NRS) straps. You can get them directly through NRS or checkout REI.
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Old 03-27-2013, 10:05 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OZ-T View Post
Are your tires 255/85/16 ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tacomada View Post
Had to chime in.

Nat. Are those 255 or they 235!

Just a word if caution for anyone transporting a canoe. The truck bed can move independent of the can. A tightly strapped canoe can experience some pretty rough forces if you are leaving smooth roads...

Something as solid as a Coleman ram x probably won't be affected. Lighter canoes don't like it...

If you have a rack on your cap you can always add canoe stops. Basically an l bracket. Not only do they provide lateral support but they will life the boat up another inch or so...

Just something to be conscious of.
Yep, they are 255/85/16's
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Old 03-27-2013, 11:02 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Drainbung View Post
I had Yakima Tracks and racks on my A.R.E. cap and had no problems hauling multiple canoes/kayaks and even had two rafts stacked once. You should have no problems with clearing the cab of the truck. Make sure you use good camstraps when tying the boat down. I've always used Northwest River Supply (NRS) straps. You can get them directly through NRS or checkout REI.
Thanks for the info. I think the difference may be is that you have a double cab long bad and I'm dealing with a double cab short bed. I ended finding all the pieces I need for around 200 bucks for a tracked thule rack...Parts are coming in on Friday and I hope to install in this weekend.

This still doesn't relieve the issue of clearing the cab...so I'm looking at two options..first and easiest is to put foam blocks on the gunwales and rest on the cab OR buy another single bar rack for the cab for when I transport the canoe long distances. Seems ridiculous for me to have three bars, but I think that's my best option. The other idea is to put the factor rack on the cab...but I'm not pumped on how that will look.

Thanks for all the input. I'll post pics of the rack and canoe soon.
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Old 03-27-2013, 11:06 AM   #15
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Yep, they are 255/85/16's
where did you get your bed rack, i have a softopper and want to do the same
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Old 03-27-2013, 11:15 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by pattersondp View Post
where did you get your bed rack, i have a softopper and want to do the same
I made it one weekend in my shop. I have a tubing bender, multiple welders, cnc mill, and other fun tools.
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Old 03-27-2013, 11:17 AM   #17
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I made it one weekend in my shop. I have a tubing bender, multiple welders, cnc mill, and other fun tools.
maybe consider making another one??
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