Diff installed (FINALLY)

Hello Forum,

First of all I want to give a SPECIAL THANKS to Chris4x4 for his valuable knowledge & for answering ALL of my questions. Believe me, I had PLENTY!

Also, THANKS to Brianr for posting Changing differential fluid - A step by step "HOW TO"

THANKS to Demoncleaner for answering questions for me also & for his post 8 Yr Ownership report

THANKS to MonkeyProof for his sticky step by step removal and installation of e-locker 3rd member. It's the same instructions for the 8.4 diff minus the e-locker part.

I have an '08 DCSB Prerunner SR5 4.0 that came originally with an open diff. For months I have been considering either an ARB locker, an E-locker swap, a Detroit True Trac, or the OEM LSD diff.

I decided on the OEM LSD diff (41110-35A70). I think it is best for my needs. It is the simplest install (my friend Christopher Harrison, RIP, helped me install it) & the best chance of no issues.

I also bought the Toyota oil 08885-02106 ($29 x 3) and the diff gasket. When I ask the dealership parts guy for the additive he said that it wasn't necessary, I called 7 other dealerships & they all said the same. Then I did some searching & found 08885-02606 for $75 each. I did not buy it!

Once I came to from passing out I PM'd Chris who said that I can use regular diff lube & an additive. At first I was worried but the more I followed where he told me to read, the better I felt.

AGAIN, THANKS TO YOU GUYS & THIS FORUM IN GENERAL:

Here are some pics:
New OEM LS Diff

Old OEM open Diff


What I used, in the following order:
1 quart,
4 ozs of additive,
1 quart,
1 quart but 4 ozs were left in it because the additive took up 4 ozs of space in the diff.
After adding the fluid I drove it for 8 miles and then rechecked the level. It was full.

The trucks OEM open diff with 53,601 miles. It is flawless. I may sell it. I have more pics but i won't post them all here:

The new OEM LSD diff. After cleaning the mating surfaces I put a thin layer of black RTV silicone on the axle housing, then the gasket, the a thin layer of black silicone on the diff & put it all together. I used red loc-tite on the bolts:

Short vid of me spinning the tires while on the lift:
http://s1056.photobucket.com/albums/t379/TACRUN1/?action=view&current=20130118diff18.mp4

The sand dunes on nw 199 st & 27 ave where I got stuck in last year. Didn't get stuck today! And, I forgot to deflate the tires!:


Thanks!

 

Awesome job!! And thank everyone for helping a fellow offroader...I was going to do a aftermarket locker in my 09 also..But I like the way you went OEM locker better...Approximately what kind of hit did your wallet take?

 

My wallet took a $1439 hit! It actually jumped out of my pocket, ran to the Emergency Room and (according to the hospital staff) doesn't even want me to visit! LOL!

Seriously though, I saved almost $700 off of the retail price of $2100. But, I didn't have to pay anyone to install since it is easy enough for me. That OEM Limited Slip diff is expensive but it's what I feel is best for my type of driving. I know that an E-locker or an ARB is the best off-road traction but the LSD is better than open diff.

 

LOL! That makes sense. I just put a very thin layer. I basically just coated it. I didn't put a bead of silicone. It's just that the paper gasket looks so flimsy.

 

Nice job. You can get some of that cash back by selling the original. Looks to be in great shape.

 

Thank you! That's my plan. From what I have read, some people buy these and then get the ARB locker installed on them. I'm gonna research what the average price is for this and I will go from there.

 

Hi Jasmie,

Thank you & the install wasn't bad at all. I was nervous for nothing.

 

Thanks...I'm pretty sure I'll do a lift before the locker but at least now I have some great info to start with!! Great job on the swap!

 

Thank you 09TACOMAN!

 

UPDATE:

I just finished draining & refilling the diff since I had reached 500 miles yesterday. I used the following fluid in the same order (left to right) as they are pictured:



I know that Demoncleaner uses syn/blend & no aditive but I already had the additive & one of the bottles so I went with these. Plus, it works GREAT!

I can only break the tires loose in dirt. I have tried twice on asphault & all I end up doing is dragging the front tires. Only on the shop floor (which is shiny) was I able to power brake them. The trucks rear was slowly sliding to the left & it left 2 even marks as it slid. I'm sure that the BFG A/T's help also. When I bought the truck with the P265/70r16 Generals I could do a HotRod style burnout. 1 wheel ofcourse.

BTW, I don't always do this. I just wanted to test it a few times.

Thanks

 

Does the OEM LSD and the Detroit operate the same way? And do you know the price difference just for the difs if I were to do the install myself?

 

now that was one hell of a thread dig.


To the question asked. No not even close. OEM LSD is a clutch pack lsd, that is an open diff with some friction disks to make it to where you cant free spin either side as easily (spec is 150ftlbs of force is necessary to overcome the clutch pack and allow for difference in tire rotation, this works whether or not both tires are on the ground or not)

Detroid trutrac uses a mechanical gear reduction with a planetary gear setup to distribute power. It will "unload" just like an open diff if a tire is completely off the ground, BUT the way it works a lil braking via traction control or even the ebrake will send power to the tire with traction at a factor of a few times (like 2-4x the torque).

 

I would have assumed it was the other way around. I didn't realize the treutrac would work with the traction control system that way. I'm guessing since you went with OEM, it does a better job at acting more like a true locker? I can't bring myself to sleep out over 2 grand for an ARB locker, but I'd like to get as close as possible.

 

Hello,
I installed this diff because I got a VERY good price on it at the time & I wanted something that I didn't have to pay a shop to do. OEM is complete drop-in. Tru-trac is more involved since you are ADDING the device to your OEM diff. Now as far as I have always heard the True Trac is better (and stronger) since it does not have any internal clutches to wear out. As far as traction control goes I couldn't tell you since that truck is an '08 SR5 with no electronic traction devices.