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Sliders or Skids First?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by redtacoma88, Jan 24, 2013.

?

Rock Sliders or Skid Plates First?

Poll closed May 4, 2013.
  1. Skid Plates 1st

    37 vote(s)
    23.3%
  2. Rock Sliders 1st

    122 vote(s)
    76.7%
  1. Feb 23, 2013 at 10:27 AM
    #41
    4Wheelin4Banger

    4Wheelin4Banger Supercharged Toyman

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    Randy
    Ferntucky, NV Halfway between Reno & Falabama
    Vehicle:
    2011 4x4 Access Cab Supercharged Silver State Edition 245WHP
    3" OME lift 885s & Dakars riding on 33" KM2s
    Skids are 3/16" steel by Relentless. And the sliders are Relentless also.
    Thanks, but my Taco is already seeing someone.
    [​IMG]
    The wife's car. :cool:
     
  2. Mar 13, 2013 at 11:18 PM
    #42
    05TacoDblCab

    05TacoDblCab Member

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    I bought sliders first. I figured I would try not to drive over things that I needed skids and instead would skirt things with sliders. Being able to open the doors after you get home is always a good thing. I need to get a real lift first then that's when I plan on buying skids.
     
  3. Mar 14, 2013 at 12:34 PM
    #43
    neonlazer

    neonlazer Mechanically Goofy

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    Lafayette, LA
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    Happy I did do skids first. Was driving through a muddy drainage thingy and hit a rock on the other side that i couldnt see..put some good scratches in the steel skid..luckily i had already upgraded it :D
     
  4. Mar 15, 2013 at 7:50 AM
    #44
    TicoTRD

    TicoTRD Well-Known Member

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    Tico
    Summerville, SC
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    '11 MGM SR5 AC
    so quick question. im on the fence of either getting sliders or n fab nerf bars. do they both protect the sides? and im sure u can use the sliders as a step anyway....
     
  5. Mar 15, 2013 at 7:54 AM
    #45
    bulhas

    bulhas the habs fan

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    Joe
    Edmonton, Alberta
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    1997 Rexus
    LS Swap 500 hp......

    skip the nerf bars, and just get your sliders custom made at a 0 degree pitch instead of up, problem solved


    remember that nerf bars will actually cause more damage if the contact is harder



    OP its best to get skids first IMO

    like spoonman said would you rather pay 2 or 3 thousand in drivetrain repairs or body damage, atleast you can still drive the truck while the body is messed up
     
  6. Mar 15, 2013 at 7:56 AM
    #46
    JLee

    JLee The Man! Vendor

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    Jerry
    Benicia, CA
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    02 Extra cab SAS Linked front and rear
    I lost track thousands of dollars ago.
    Nerf bars will not protect your truck from anything more then a shopping cart or a car door. And a hard enough hit from one of those will dent the .065 wall tube the Nfabs are made of.

    If your not taking your truck off road the nerf bars are fine.
     
  7. Mar 15, 2013 at 7:59 AM
    #47
    TicoTRD

    TicoTRD Well-Known Member

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    Summerville, SC
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    thanks guys.
     
  8. Apr 7, 2013 at 5:09 PM
    #48
    Spoonman

    Spoonman Granite Guru

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    Alberta
    Maybe you've never actually wheeled before.

    Your argument is complete bogus there buddy. KOH drivers are experienced. Do you see them skipping skid plates? Not a fucking chance.
     
  9. May 19, 2015 at 5:56 AM
    #49
    gimmeajo

    gimmeajo i'm here for the food

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    Zander
    New Orleans via New England
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    '13 DCSB 4WD TRD OR
    OME 883, N140, N182, 265/75/16 Hankook ATMs, Weathertechs, chop front flaps, diff breather, killed seatbelt dinger
    It seems to me that if you weren't so to rock climb your truck, there are still plenty of off-road situations where sliders and or skids are going to save you. For that matter in New Orleans, our pot holes are like rock climbing and kill vehicles daily. It all depends on what you're going to do. I personally don't have either, but don't do very challenging terrain yet. I'll probably get sliders one day and if I get into real uneven/rocky stuff I'll get some skids too.
     
  10. May 19, 2015 at 7:19 AM
    #50
    Pigpen

    Pigpen My truck is never clean

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    2012 AC Manual 4.0 4x4 Base Model
    Access cab toolbox/ dog bed with seats and headrests deleted, waterproof TRD seat covers, yellow wire mod, diff breather relocated to tail light, engine block heater, Leer topper with Yakima tracks and rack, Yakima rack on cab, Ride Rite with Daystar cradles, CBI hidden front hitch, wired for winch front and rear Warn quick connect, Warn x8000i on external carrier, sway bar delete, trailer plug relocated to bumper, Pelfreybilt IFS and Mid skids, ECGS front diff bushing, ARB CKMA12 compressor, 255/85/16 Backcountrry MT 3 load E tires on stock steel rims, Up2NoGood heated mirror kit, Husky X-act Contour front floor liners, Northstar AGM 24F battery, Pelfreybilt bolt on sliders with kickout and top plates, TRD Pro headlights, Depo smoked tail lights, Energy suspension body mount bushing kit, OME Dakar leaf packs with AAL, Billstein B110 rear shocks, OME 90021 front shocks with 885 coils, SPC LR UCAs, Up2NoGood 2wd low range mod, 4 Wheel Campers Grandby slide in camper
    We need a zombie emoji for necro thread posts @tcBob :D
     
  11. May 19, 2015 at 7:59 AM
    #51
    gimmeajo

    gimmeajo i'm here for the food

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    Zander
    New Orleans via New England
    Vehicle:
    '13 DCSB 4WD TRD OR
    OME 883, N140, N182, 265/75/16 Hankook ATMs, Weathertechs, chop front flaps, diff breather, killed seatbelt dinger
    Never understood the dead thread thing. The information is still as relevant as it was in 2013, is it not?
     

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