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Carling switch to OEM fog lights

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Old 02-07-2013, 02:00 PM   #1
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Carling switch to OEM fog lights

I'm having some trouble wiring this switch! The lights work, but the switch doesn't illuminate properly.
Here is the aftermarket switch that I replaced for my oem fog lights.

I replaced the oem switch for this one because I want the switch to light up only when the fog lights are on. Also, it matches another switch I have installed beside it for my offroad lights.
It is a Carling Contura V sealed rocker switch from OTRATTW for $14. Part number is V1D1BHOB- Green LED. It has 3 pins on the back of it.

I have already done the 'fog lights anytime' mod.
I only want the switch to illuminate when the fog lights are on. It does not have to illuminate with the dash lights.

Here is how I wired it after cutting off the oem plug. I only three of the wires - the fourth wire is unused and capped.
There are two green wires - one has a white tracer. First time I rigged it with the green wire with white tracer - but that doesn't illuminate the switch properly. This is the photo below.
I have changed it to the solid green wire and now it still doesn't function properly. I capped the unused green wire with white tracer.
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Old 02-07-2013, 08:04 PM   #2
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Old 02-09-2013, 06:30 PM   #3
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Starting to pull my hair out over this.
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Old 02-09-2013, 06:51 PM   #4
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How does the light function now?
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Old 02-09-2013, 11:09 PM   #5
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If your off-road light switch illuminates properly, can you not just piggyback power and ground from that switch instead of using the stock wire?
I did the same thing with almost identical switches and I piggybacked the wiring from one to the other, works perfectly. I would show you a pic but it would be useless considering the back of my switches have 8 pins.

One a side note - I blew a fuse when I tried using the stock fog power wire, that's why I piggybacked.
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:22 PM   #6
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[QUOTE] can you not just piggyback power and ground from that switch instead of using the stock wire? /QUOTE]
Ok I tried that and it made no difference.
[QUOTE]How does the light function now?
/QUOTE]
It works the lights properly. But it illuminates the switch when the lights are off, and then the switch stops illuminating when the fogs are turned on! I'm wanting the reverse of this - illuminate the switch when the fogs come on.
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:39 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tacoma BC View Post



This is what i did.... cut the striped green wire about an inch from switch and use the tail to jump over to the blue wire.... this allows the switch to illuminate only when the switch is on.
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:52 PM   #8
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I found this online. Did your switch come with a wiring diagram? Based on the diagram below, I would have hooked up the switch the same way you did, but I think you need to recheck the vehicle's wiring. Based on the stock wiring diagram, it sounds like the switch controls the ground, not the power side of the relay. Try switching pins 2 and 3 (the bottom 2 pins). That might do it for you if I've got it straight in my head.

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Old 02-10-2013, 01:55 PM   #9
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The factory relay system is ground-switched.
The Carling switches are designed around the typical aftermarket positive-switched systems.

Yes, you can get the dash illumination to work without a problem, but getting the indicator light to work will require powering it from the output of the truck's relay, and that will only work if you have the Carling switch body that has 6 separate contacts so the indicator light is isolated from the switch contacts.
Most illuminated switches tie the indicator to the switched output.
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:57 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugga View Post
I found this online. Did your switch come with a wiring diagram? Based on the diagram below, I would have hooked up the switch the same way you did, but I think you need to recheck the vehicle's wiring. Based on the stock wiring diagram, it sounds like the switch controls the ground, not the power side of the relay. Try switching pins 2 and 3 (the bottom 2 pins). That might do it for you if I've got it straight in my head.

Switching 2 and 3, the indicator is going to be on any time the relay has power, regardless of the position of the switch.
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:58 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich91710 View Post
Switching 2 and 3, the indicator is going to be on any time the relay has power, regardless of the position of the switch.
Damn, good point. Listen to this man^

Looks like you're going to have to get creative with your wiring!
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Old 02-10-2013, 02:40 PM   #12
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If I had a schematic for the switch, I might be able to come up with something workable.
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Old 02-10-2013, 05:29 PM   #13
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Here you go Rich:
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Old 02-10-2013, 05:37 PM   #14
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Connect pin 7 of the switch to +12V ignition or accessory, not ground, provided the illumination is a standard filament bulb, and not LED. Then both sides of the bulb get 12v+ until you turn the switch "on", and pin 3 becomes the ground to complete a circuit. If its an internal LED, then you'd have to disassemble the switch and reverse the led's polarity, which might be tricky.

Keep the blue wire on pin 3 and the white/black strip on pin 2.
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Old 02-10-2013, 05:45 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by landphil View Post
Connect pin 7 of the switch to +12V ignition or accessory, not ground, provided the illumination is a standard filament bulb, and not LED. Then both sides of the bulb get 12v+ until you turn the switch "on", and pin 3 becomes the ground to complete a circuit. If its an internal LED, then you'd have to disassemble the switch and reverse its polarity.
This

White/black (Ground) to pin 2, stock relay (blue) to pin 3, and 1a fused +12v to pin 7.
You could even use the solid green to power the lamp, definitely fuse it so you don't smoke your dimmer.

Be aware that if you remove the fog fuse, the lamp will feed +12 through the lamp back to the relay coil, so if you remove the fog fuse, make sure you remove the switch fuse as well.

You can counter that by installing an isolation diode on the blue wire (banded end of the diode toward the switch).



So Pugga was almost there. Reverse pin 2 and 3, but also provide power to 7.
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Old 02-10-2013, 05:53 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich91710 View Post

Be aware that if you remove the fog fuse, the lamp will feed +12 through the lamp back to the relay coil, so if you remove the fog fuse, make sure you remove the switch fuse as well.
Yes, it will feed power back through the bulb, but it will either be to equal 12V+ OR open circuit in the case of the fog fuse missing/blown, no? I don't have the OEM diagram in front of me, but it shouldn't be an issue if the relay coil power is supplied by the fog fuse they way I'm assuming its wired. Learn me if I'm wrong though.
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Old 02-10-2013, 06:23 PM   #17
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I'm thinking if the circuit is being worked on... the backfeed could cause a surprise.

But if the fog fuse blows, then the same thing that blew the fuse could potentially light up the indicator. Wouldn't hurt anything, since in the "on" state the lamp is dumped to ground anyways.

It's more the "surprise" aspect when one thinks they're working on a dead circuit.
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Old 02-10-2013, 06:39 PM   #18
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Gotcha Rich. I was thinking along the lines of a parasitic draw draing the battery, etc, but using switched (and fused as you say) power to pin 7 eliminates all chance of trouble.
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Old 02-10-2013, 07:02 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tacoma BC View Post
It does not have to illuminate with the dash lights.


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Here you go Rich:
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Old 02-10-2013, 07:05 PM   #20
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That could work too, but will the lamp/relay combination pass enough current to close the relay and illuminate the lamp?
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