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Old 02-15-2013, 06:00 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreidTaco View Post
What am i waiting for?

How many miles does your truck have on it? Just something to consider. Would you put a used transfer case in your truck that has over 40-87k miles on it instead of putting a brand new actuator in?
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Old 02-15-2013, 06:02 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by blackhawke88 View Post
Trouble shoot your actuator first. I took mine apart and found out the prongs on either side of the actuator motor were bent apart. I soldered them together and it worked:

Good Stuff
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Old 02-15-2013, 06:04 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackhawke88 View Post
WAIT, dont buy or do anything
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackhawke88 View Post
Trouble shoot your actuator first. I took mine apart and found out the prongs on either side of the actuator motor were bent apart. I soldered them together and it worked:
Interesting.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by slatercat View Post
How many miles does your truck have on it? Just something to consider. Would you put a used transfer case in your truck that has over 40-87k miles on it instead of putting a brand new actuator in?
I have 75xxx on it
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Old 02-15-2013, 06:06 PM   #24
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Would be nice if its a $.10 fix
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Old 02-15-2013, 06:13 PM   #25
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I found and attached the 4x4 factory troubleshoot guide which I used:
4x4 troubleshoot guide.pdf
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Old 02-15-2013, 06:15 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreidTaco View Post
Interesting.....



I have 75xxx on it

You have fairly low miles. Just my .02, but if the actuator turns out to be bad, I would be more inclined to replace it with a new actuator rather than a transfer case with almost as many miles as the one i have. Even if i have to pay a couple hundred more. Now if the difference was greater say 500 more, I may take my chances with the used one.
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Old 02-15-2013, 06:21 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackhawke88 View Post
I found and attached the 4x4 factory troubleshoot guide which I used:
Attachment 195958
Did you test all resistance values?
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Old 02-15-2013, 06:22 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreidTaco View Post
Did you test all resistance values?
Yes. I went down every step. I located the error at the resistance test.
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Old 02-15-2013, 06:26 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackhawke88 View Post
Yes. I went down every step. I located the error at the resistance test.
Well in that case, i am at step one cause it does not stop blinking.
I guess i will pull it inside and get after it.
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Old 02-15-2013, 06:27 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreidTaco View Post
Well in that case, i am at step one cause it does not stop blinking.
I guess i will pull it inside and get after it.
do the ohm test anyways
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Old 02-15-2013, 07:26 PM   #32
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Okay so on step 5 everything checked out good so the switch is good.

On step 6 I am assuming it was telling me to check the plug side that goes into the switch....
part A supposed to be .3 to 100 i got 1230

Part B supposed to be more than .5M
terminal 1 to ground i got 1230
terminal 2 to ground i got 0.6
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Old 02-15-2013, 07:38 PM   #33
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Wait, what i did does not make sense. I am an idiot. Those wires have to go to the computer.
I think i need to inspect the actual actuator. DUH!!
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Old 02-15-2013, 07:55 PM   #34
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Okay, here are my real results.
Part A 1.3 right where it needs to be
Part B not a damn thing. I cant even get a flicker on multimeter
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Old 02-15-2013, 09:18 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreidTaco View Post
Okay, here are my real results.
Part A 1.3 right where it needs to be
Part B not a damn thing. I cant even get a flicker on multimeter
No continuity on motor side or plug means circuit is broken somewhere. Same problem I had. Check the motor prongs.
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Old 02-15-2013, 09:44 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackhawke88 View Post
No continuity on motor side or plug means circuit is broken somewhere. Same problem I had. Check the motor prongs.
well i checked the front actuator and there was no continuity there either. between prongs 1&2 or grounded.
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Old 02-16-2013, 12:11 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreidTaco View Post
well i checked the front actuator and there was no continuity there either. between prongs 1&2 or grounded.
same thing with mine. prongs 1 and 2 no connectivity. I tested it on my buddy's 4x4 and there was connectivity. Pulled the actuator out (6 screws IIRC) and the prongs werent touching).

Easy and free fix, definitely worth trying.
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Old 02-16-2013, 01:33 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackhawke88 View Post
same thing with mine. prongs 1 and 2 no connectivity. I tested it on my buddy's 4x4 and there was connectivity. Pulled the actuator out (6 screws IIRC) and the prongs werent touching).

Easy and free fix, definitely worth trying.
If blackhawke's excellent assist falls through, I'd suggest visiting a transmission shop for an estimate before having the work done at a dealership. They specialize in this kind of repair, and may be able to do the job for less. If you need an actuator, they may also be able to find you a better deal than the dealership.

Blackhawke, keep the help coming. Even if it ultimately fails to help the OP, I'm sure someone else will make use of it.
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Old 02-16-2013, 02:52 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackhawke88 View Post
No continuity on motor side or plug means circuit is broken somewhere. Same problem I had. Check the motor prongs.
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!! I FREAKING LOVE YOU MAN!!!!
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Old 02-16-2013, 03:18 PM   #40
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