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How To Trouble Shoot 4x4 Actuator

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Old 02-15-2013, 06:09 PM   #1
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How To Trouble Shoot 4x4 Actuator

I have seen a lot of people replacing actuators, which are very expensive. My 4x4 went out a few months ago and I went through the attached factory trouble shoot guide, and found out the two tiny prongs on either side of the actuator motor were barely bent so they couldnt make contact. I soldered the prongs to the motor and everything worked fine:

Attachment 195958



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Old 02-15-2013, 06:28 PM   #2
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thank you, i was kindof lurking in that thread and am sure this will benefit many of us a few miles down the road
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:11 PM   #3
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That is some good info.
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:16 PM   #4
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Is this what your t case looks like?


Photo from DCtacoboy4x4

Do not touch transfer case.
GO to front diff.
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:24 PM   #5
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The 4x4 actuator is at the front diff
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Old 02-16-2013, 01:55 PM   #6
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DO this!!! It worked!!!
I will post up more pictures to help out future people
THANKS again MAN!!!!
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Old 02-16-2013, 02:14 PM   #7
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I had to drop the two front diff brackets to get to the top 2 bolts.



I ended up replacing the vacuum hose because i cut it a little while replacing it.



This is what it looks like out of the diff. Make sure you clean the old silcone gasket off before installing.



Top side with the 5 screws you have to remove.



Here are how my terminals looked. They looked pretty close but i could see ark marks on one side.



My soldering looks poor here but i touched it up before installing.
I soldered both terminals on the motor and both on the switch as well just for insurance.

And then reverse order to assemble.
Thanks again blackhawke88 +1
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Old 02-16-2013, 02:29 PM   #8
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Definitely worthy of a stickie. I may add a propane soldering gun to my tool kit.

Are there similar contact points in the other actuator assemblies?
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:43 PM   #9
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glad i could help!
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:17 PM   #10
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Good work to the both of you!!!!!

Send blackhake88 some beer.


Mods, make a sticky out of this.


As for the dealers, shame on you for trying to rip off the owners.
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:45 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by romafern View Post
Good work to the both of you!!!!!

Send blackhake88 some beer.


Mods, make a sticky out of this.


As for the dealers, shame on you for trying to rip off the owners.
Agreed.
Yup.
Definitely.

I don't agree with the last. If Toyota says that part is non-serviceable, no dealership will try to repair it. I doubt you'll find a lot of shops (Toyota or independent) willing to work on a small assembly like that, since it did fail and certainly could again shortly. If they did, the shop would need to modify any warranty on the job, and that's often avoided.

OTOH, this is a perfect job for a DIYer. The only downside is having it fail again and buying a new part.
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:51 PM   #12
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Mine was the T-case actuator. It has three slide contacts that corroded. I tried to fill the pitting with solder and sanding it flat, which worked for about a year, then I converted my T-case to manual shift and just locked the front diff actuator then unplugged it. Works every time now. Both actuators are a really bad design and the weakest link in the factory 4wd system.
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:58 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by username View Post
Mine was the T-case actuator. It has three slide contacts that corroded. I tried to fill the pitting with solder and sanding it flat, which worked for about a year, then I converted my T-case to manual shift and just locked the front diff actuator then unplugged it. Works every time now. Both actuators are a really bad design and the weakest link in the factory 4wd system.
Agree with you.
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:03 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by romafern View Post
Good work to the both of you!!!!!

Send blackhake88 some beer.


Mods, make a sticky out of this.


As for the dealers, shame on you for trying to rip off the owners.
I concur
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:49 PM   #15
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Def gana have to try this when I get home from deployment in st paul island.
cause this is my problem

I can shift into 4wd hi and I hear it click in but the light just keeps blinking. Then when I got to switch in into 4lo while I'm in neutral it doesn't shift and just keeps beeping. Then the only way I can get out of 4hi is to shut the truck off, then switch to 2wd then turn the truck back on and it will then click out.

Any ideas?
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Old 03-06-2013, 04:58 PM   #16
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Did the trick for the time being! I also had some faint arcing marks on one of the prongs, soldered it and works perfect. Beats paying $650 for a new actuator! Thanks!!
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Old 03-06-2013, 05:05 PM   #17
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Marking this one in my browsers fave list for later.

I wonder thought, is this a FIX? or is this more like a temp fix like a band aid on a broken leg? Whats the real cause of the actuator failing just those prongs losing connection?
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Old 03-06-2013, 05:23 PM   #18
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I haven't held one, but from the photos, I'd guess that the original solder fails over time, leading to arcing and eventual failure. The solder joints may may begin to fail due to the effects of vibration and torque. Once the joint starts to fail, a vicious cycle begins, as the remaining solder gets overheated, making it more prone to failure.

In addition to repairing the solder, it may be necessary to mount the motor better, too. To those of you that have performed the repair, does that explanation fit with what you found?
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Old 03-06-2013, 06:50 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoorDing View Post
I haven't held one, but from the photos, I'd guess that the original solder fails over time, leading to arcing and eventual failure. The solder joints may may begin to fail due to the effects of vibration and torque. Once the joint starts to fail, a vicious cycle begins, as the remaining solder gets overheated, making it more prone to failure.

In addition to repairing the solder, it may be necessary to mount the motor better, too. To those of you that have performed the repair, does that explanation fit with what you found?
Somewhat. There actually is NO solder at all on those contact points. The are only making contact by simply touching. That is why this fix works by adding solder. It makes a permanent connection that does not allow vibrations to effect the contact points.
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Old 03-06-2013, 06:56 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreidTaco View Post
Somewhat. There actually is NO solder at all on those contact points. The are only making contact by simply touching. That is why this fix works by adding solder. It makes a permanent connection that does not allow vibrations to effect the contact points.
Really? I figured there was at least a little solder, or they were spot welded.
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