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OME Lift Install Tomorrow

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Old 03-15-2013, 04:33 AM   #1
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OME Lift Install Tomorrow

OK guys tomorrow is the big day, after about a year of reading post after post im finally ready to install OME 3 inch lift. 885's with spacers pre assembled, dakars with bushing pre-installed, axle shims, already installed collar pins.... i got a set of LR uca's plan on cutting the long bolt out and installing new from the back. I know i must preload suspension before torquing everything, what did you guys do, put wheels on and set down onto the ground then torque? Do you guys have any advice or tips for me, I mean anything you guys think of would help.
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Old 03-15-2013, 05:27 AM   #2
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Torque everything except the long UCA bolt, put the truck in its own weight then torque the long UCA bolts on both sides. Getting a torque wrench in there is fun, my 3/8 didn't meet the torque specs so I had to use my 1/2" drive and it was a pita.
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Old 03-15-2013, 05:29 AM   #3
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And put about 85 ft lbs on the rear u-bolts, I think factory claims 37 which is stupid. Drive for a week & retorque everything again
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Old 03-15-2013, 05:32 AM   #4
My turn.
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also dont forget to torque the rear springs(shackles and front hanger) after it is set on the ground as well..... not when it is off the ground.
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Old 03-15-2013, 05:38 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TacoFMS View Post
also dont forget to torque the rear springs(shackles and front hanger) after it is set on the ground as well..... not when it is off the ground.
forgot about that.
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Old 03-15-2013, 05:53 AM   #6
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When I did mine it was easy to cut the long bolt and put the new one in reverse direction on the passenger side. On the driver side there isn't enough room to remove or install the bolt from the other direction. I had to bend the inner fender to remove and install the bolt. Not sure if they're all like that but mine sure was.
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Old 03-15-2013, 06:48 AM   #7
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They're all like that. Hell, Toyota's directions for replacing the UCA's states to bend the inner fender to get those bolts out.
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Old 03-15-2013, 06:57 AM   #8
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Did you guys torque down the lower bolt on the coilivers before lowering to the ground, it is a pivot point? For the guys who put both Uca's and coilivers did you have enough room to install the coilivers by just separating the top ball joint or did you have to remove sway bar or lower ball joint.....
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Old 03-15-2013, 07:00 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Gata View Post
Did you guys torque down the lower bolt on the coilivers before lowering to the ground, it is a pivot point? For the guys who put both Uca's and coilivers did you have enough room to install the coilivers by just separating the top ball joint or did you have to remove sway bar or lower ball joint.....
Remove the sway bar, use an allen key and an open end wrench for the end links. Then take the skid plate off and loosen or remove the mounting bolts and swing it out of the way conpletely. If you do UCAs then you dont need to mess with the LCA or tie rods. I used a spring compressor and tightened the top bolt before installing. Are you using the no spring compressor method?

Edit: nevermind about the no spring compressor, i see you bought the coilovers pre assembled.
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Old 03-15-2013, 07:02 AM   #10
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If you want some help post in this thread, http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/nor...read-1198.html some local guys might be willing to lend a hand. Be careful of those brake lines when you seperate the UCA and spindle, its nice to have an extra set of hands or have zipties ready to go to temporarily secure the spindle
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Old 03-15-2013, 07:09 AM   #11
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Spring compressor method? My coilivers are already assembly, had toy tech do it
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Old 03-15-2013, 07:10 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Gata View Post
Spring compressor method? My coilivers are already assembly, had toy tech do it
Ya just saw that and edited my post. Good choice having them pre assembled, its worth the money because it is a PITA
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Old 03-15-2013, 07:14 AM   #13
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Yeah def worth it, ok so I'll disconnect the sway bar first, break the upper ball joint, secure spindle, cut off uca bolts and remove uca, install coiliver then uca, sound about right? Easier said than done I'm sure
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Old 03-15-2013, 08:00 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Gata View Post
Yeah def worth it, ok so I'll disconnect the sway bar first, break the upper ball joint, secure spindle, cut off uca bolts and remove uca, install coiliver then uca, sound about right? Easier said than done I'm sure
Sounds right to me! Good luck! I did the same install a few months ago, wasnt very hard at all. If you have any questions during the process, post and im sure you will get a quick answer, i did that a few times when i installed mine.
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Old 03-15-2013, 08:11 AM   #15
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What's your estimate on time for this install, both front and back
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Old 03-15-2013, 08:21 AM   #16
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It took me 3 days but i worked on it after work, so probably around 10 hours but i also had to assemble to shocks and coils, plus it was my first time doing suspension work so it went slow. Someone who has done it before could probably do it in 4 hours. You should be able to tackle it in a day no problem. Dakars are a little tricky by yourself.
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Old 03-15-2013, 08:55 AM   #17
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Cool, I've never done one but I've worked on quads and dirtbikes, so I think I'll be ok, hopefully I can get a friend or two to give me a hand
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Old 03-15-2013, 10:19 AM   #18
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Bump
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Old 03-15-2013, 01:06 PM   #19
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If i wasnt working tomorrow i would come lend a hand. What other info are you looking for? Just tips an pointers?
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Old 03-15-2013, 01:20 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P9HST2 View Post
When I did mine it was easy to cut the long bolt and put the new one in reverse direction on the passenger side. On the driver side there isn't enough room to remove or install the bolt from the other direction. I had to bend the inner fender to remove and install the bolt. Not sure if they're all like that but mine sure was.
This is how I got my drivers side bolt out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bullaculla View Post
Got both sides done now.
Quick tip on the drivers side.
There are a few lines(red arrow) in the way of removing/installing the pivot bolt. Remove the two nuts (green arrows) with a 10mm wrench. I got some paracord and made a choker to tie the fuel lines off to the header. There was enough room to slide the bolt back in this way.

hope this helps somebody
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