Stuck in L4

Longtime lurker, longtime searcher of threads for help -- with thanks to the community for help on several issues. First real post for me.

I've searched all over for this and can't find a solution. Seems many people have a problem with not being able to shift into L4, but mine is the opposite - I can't get out of L4.

2005 TRD Sport with 4WD, automatic, 134,000 miles (61,000 are mine). Was doing some yard work in a tight spot and shifted into L4 at about 2 mph (yes, I've now read that I should be in neutral, but must say I've done this dozens of times previously with no issues). Now it won't shift back into H4 or H2. I've tried all the various "drive in reverse" "drive forward, then reverse", "start in H2" "turn the dial with your left hand ;-) Nothing. Called the dealer and they told me the same things (no charge!).

Research leads me to the ADD actuator. I just can't find a write up on one for a Taco - only FJs and Sequoias. I know the unit is the same, but access is not. I can get to four of the five screw holding the actuator faceplate - but absolutely no access to the 5th. I assume that I need to lower the diff case for better access, but can't find good direction on doing that either.

I do use my 4WD for light offroading a fair amount, but it is primarily my commuter vehicle. I would be happy to just get it into 2WD for now.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

I'm sure you have done it but make sure you are stopped, have the switch in 4L then try and switch out. Try in nutreal and drive but be stopped. Mine only goes in and out of 4L if I'm stopped.

 

Try going to a gravel parking lot and doing figure 8 in drive and reverse. It may take a while, people may stop and stare, but eventually that SOB will pop out. If it doesn't you are on the right track of pulling the actuator. Most times it needs nothing more than a good cleaning and you are good to go.

 

1st how did you manage to get it into 4Lo while in gear? If I am not in neutral and try to shift into 4Lo, the ECU just beeps at me and the 4Lo light flashes.

I haven't looked at the wiring diagram for a while but I don't think the ADD actuator has anything to do with shifting into 4Lo, just 4Hi. I'd guess your issue is that the Tcase actuator has failed. As for getting into it... I'm not sure, but once you get into it you should be able to move the shift rail with your hand to get it out of 4wd. You'll still have to replace the actuator though if that is what failed...

 

Well in this case I think it is the ADD because like you said, you aren't supposed to be able to shift into 4LO from 4HI on the move like he did. You are right and most 4LO problems are t-case related, but since he was able to "trick the computer", for lack of better words, I think it might be the ADD actuator.

 

I'm still pretty sure it's not the ADD actuator. Now if it wouldn't go back to 2Hi from 4Hi then yes that might be the problem, but since the ADD actuator stays engaged when going from 4Lo to 4Hi, there's pretty good odds that it is something in the Tcase.

When going from 2Hi to 4Hi, the ADD actuator will try to engage the ADD. The ADD must be lined up for it to engage so that is why you can and pretty much should shift into 4Hi while moving. Once the ADD is engaged then the Tcase actuator will shift the shift rail in the Tcase into 4Hi. When shifting into 4Lo (in an auto) you have to be stopped and in Neutral and then the Tcase actuator will shift the shift rail into 4Lo. I'm pretty sure the ADD actuator has no input when going from 4Hi to 4Lo and vice versa.

The fact that he was able to shift into 4Lo while not in neutral leads me to believe something might be wrong with his neutral sensor or ECU or something...

 

Looking back, I can't swear I was moving, but I certainly was in Drive when I shifted.

I'm going in - dropped the diff a couple inches and am taking the ADD housing off. Gonna try to get in an manually move the fork.

 

That is just going to get you out of 4wd, that is if the ADD stays disengaged (it may just try to re-engage as soon as you start the engine again and move). The tcase will still be in low as well. I would try getting into the actuator on the T-case and moving that shift rail.

 

Thanks. Was not able to really finish working on this yesterday due to family obligations. Got the actuator apart. What kind of grease is supposed to be in there? Mine is whitish/yellowish, clumpy and virtually dry. What components should have fresh grease applied?

 

This just happened to me as well. Can't get out of 4lo. (I had it in 4lo to teach my daughter to drive manual).

Upon inspection I noticed there is a vacuum line broken off at the transfer case actuator. I think I broke it off doing this:



My ADD actuator has crapped out twice and been replaced under warranty. I don't think the actuator with the broken vacuum nipple will covered under warranty :-(

Did you fix yours yet?

 

Sorry to hear on yours - at least you were having fun when it happened ;-)

I got mine out of 4lo, but have not tried to go back into 4lo or 4hi since. I took off the ADD, manually moved the sleeve over, turned the gear on the actuator to move the fork over to line up with the sleeve, reinstalled and called it a day. I'm afraid I'll get stuck back in 4wd.

Good luck with yours. That vacuum hose shouldn't be too hard of a fix - just a little tight working under there.

 

True!

I used 2 part epoxy to glue it back on. After drying I re-attached the hose, started it up and it disengaged from 4lo to 4hi (where I had the switch set). Then turned to 2hi and it disengaged fine. I haven't switching back, since it's a holiday weekend and everything is closed. I'll try it next weekend.

IIRC when my front actuator went on me, I couldn't get out of 4hi while the truck was running. Switched to 2hi and turned the truck off - I could hear it disengage when I turned it off.

Second gen Tacos are known for the front actuator to go. I've known a bunch of people who've had them cack out. Mine's gone twice now. Think | need to stay out of the deep water holes...

Anyway, good luck with yours!