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HELP...Taco doesnt idle well, stalls, no power...

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by mattmyster, Mar 19, 2013.

  1. Mar 19, 2013 at 1:42 PM
    #21
    MadMan

    MadMan Well-Known Member

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    See if they will pay for new ones or at least split cost with you, since you are out of warranty.
     
  2. Mar 19, 2013 at 1:49 PM
    #22
    127.0.0.1

    127.0.0.1 AKA ::1

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    welp...

    flashing engine light (MIL indicator) is a misfire happening in real-time

    then you need to find any stored codes
    ----
    coil packs fried ? is this before or after they welded ?

    is it really coil packs or just crappy plug wires, need to verify,
    because bad plug wires can do this, but are far cheaper to fix
     
  3. Mar 19, 2013 at 1:54 PM
    #23
    mattmyster

    mattmyster [OP] Well-Known Member

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    they just called and said when the mechanic ran the codes it was coil packs b and d that were causing the issue, splitting the cost may be a inquiry ill make, if they say no im gonna install 2 new ones in the middle of their parking lot, problem is i dont know which ones are b and d,

    does anyone know if they are labelled?
     
  4. Mar 19, 2013 at 2:03 PM
    #24
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    And again, I disagree with you. I do not think that their numbers are small, and to be honest, I believe that with what I have seen over the years, most of the good techs are at the dealerships because they are the ones who do tend to pay the best. A good quality tech is easily worth $25 or more per hour. The dealerships are the ones who can normally afford this. Not to say that you can't find a good tech at an independent shop, or owning one (Case in point, I own my own shop now) but I think that just because in your area you have had bad dealings with them, you can't rightfully say that all dealerships across the entire US are the same as the ones in your town. We evidently will not agree on this, and I will just leave it at that. Neither one of us is going to convince the other to change their mind. And I can do a fluid change without cracking a drain plug as well. I can perform a system flush with a machine that does it via the cooler lines, and still do it for $200. We were charging $189 at my last dealership.

    I agree that they need to check to make sure the plug wires are not faulty. However the code could be an internal coil pack failure, where the plug wires would be irrelevant. As far as welding goes, the OP did state that they were simply fixing a few scratches, so I do not see a reason for them to have welded anything. But obviously we don't know for sure.

    FWIW - a flashing SES is not selective of a misfire. It indicates that something is going on that is or could be causing damage to the catalytic converter. While it typically does mean a misfire is occurring, I have seen flashing SES lights that were not a misfire.


    OK, just looked up a few things, and I am thinking that you are having a code P0351 and P0354 from what they are describing. This is a primary coil failure, which indicates (According to Toyota) that it is either an ECU failure, a wiring failure between the ECU and the coil pack, or a failed coil pack. (Primary is the 12v side of the coil that builds up the charge, secondary is the high voltage side which actually sends the spark to the plugs)

    As far as which coil is B and which one is D, you did not indicate which engine you had, but on the 2.7 the letters correspond to the cylinder number, so 1=A, 2=b, etc. So A and D would be cylinders #1 and #4.
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2013
  5. Mar 19, 2013 at 2:08 PM
    #25
    mattmyster

    mattmyster [OP] Well-Known Member

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    well they told me today a new box side, door panel were put on, and they used a machine to pull a dent from my cab corner. scratches were hard enough i guess for them to replace it. i asked if they welded he said no....but im not so trusting
     
  6. Mar 19, 2013 at 2:16 PM
    #26
    mattmyster

    mattmyster [OP] Well-Known Member

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    the dealer also said they would leave my battery disconnected over night to see if it makes a difference
     
  7. Mar 21, 2013 at 6:40 AM
    #27
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    Any word back from the dealer Matt?
     
  8. Mar 22, 2013 at 3:02 PM
    #28
    mattmyster

    mattmyster [OP] Well-Known Member

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    yeah the called me back after all this coil pack talk and said it was flooded...aka now everything is running perfectly they said, kinda wierd but ill take that, and here a pick of my truck, just put my rims and tires on today

    2XD74427_10152674854175790_347531364_n.jpg
     
  9. Mar 22, 2013 at 5:07 PM
    #29
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    That doesn't ring true.

    Flooded on a vehicle with fuel injectors usually means a leaking fuel injector.
     
  10. Mar 22, 2013 at 5:08 PM
    #30
    mattmyster

    mattmyster [OP] Well-Known Member

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    thats why its weird cause there codes were saying b and d coil packs
     
  11. Mar 26, 2013 at 7:23 AM
    #31
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    I think what happened, and I may be wrong since I was not there, but they probably found something that they failed to reconnect, or something that they did wrong, and in order to try and save face, they came up with that as an excuse, in the hopes that you would not have friends who knew about trucks, calling their BS.
     
  12. Mar 26, 2013 at 7:29 AM
    #32
    BlueTaco07

    BlueTaco07 Super Mod!

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    I wouldn't see how it would be a battery issue if its still cranking... Usually it'd make a very slow turn over on the starter but not crank? Could it Possibly be an issue with the fuel system or intake?
     

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