1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

4 Low indicator flashing!!!

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by scarekrew5, Mar 22, 2013.

  1. Mar 22, 2013 at 4:38 AM
    #1
    scarekrew5

    scarekrew5 [OP] Member

    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2008
    Member:
    #7516
    Messages:
    23
    First Name:
    Krew
    Hey guys I know there are a couple of threads about this but I didn't really find the answer I'm looking for, so please be kind.

    I have a 06 Tacoma trd sport ( not under warranty)

    I would say almost a year ago I had my 4 low light randomly come on and start flashing on when I started my truck. I freaked out and took it to the dealer and they said something about the actuator freezing and supposedly fixed it for 50$.

    Today I drove to the gas station and after fueling I started my truck and see the maintaince light flashing along with my 4 low light. The maintaince light went away after about 3 flashes but the 4 low stayed on. I tryed engaged 4 hi and 4 low but nothing happend. I turned the truck off and restarted it and poof it was gone.

    I know this is not fixed so is there any suggestions on what to do to fix this issue before something goes bad and I have to pay 3500-5000$ at a dealer?

    Oh I read somewhere about a ADD plug fixing the issue, if so could someone tell me where that's located so I can check.

    Thanks guys
     
  2. Mar 22, 2013 at 2:50 PM
    #2
    BradyT88

    BradyT88 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2011
    Member:
    #66419
    Messages:
    36,688
    Hmm... Not sure what fix they did for $50. Cleaned the actuator plug maybe? Does you maintenance light still flash every time you start it or maybe stay solid now? Every 4500 miles it will flash a few times when you first start it and ever 5000 miles it will stay solid. It is just reminding you to change your oil. Usually when there is a problem your check engine light or some other light will light up not the maintenance light. If you have your manual it should tell you what a flashes 4Lo light indicates.

    As you said I would try cleaning the actuator plugs first. The ADD one is on the passenger side of the front diff. Don't remember exactly where and they I believe there is one on your tcase somewhere that can be cleaned as well.
     
  3. Mar 22, 2013 at 3:30 PM
    #3
    scarekrew5

    scarekrew5 [OP] Member

    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2008
    Member:
    #7516
    Messages:
    23
    First Name:
    Krew
    Brady thanks for responding I have been wondering if anyone was gonna try and give me a hand because I have been searching everywhere for this issue. I cleared the maintenance light, I'm sure it was just telling me to change my oil but i didn't reset it the last time i changed it because I do it more often then the truck recommends.

    As far as the 4 lo light it is off now but I don't understand why it would come on if I didn't even attempt to put it in 4 hi or 4 lo, it came on as soon as I started my truck.

    I will go look around for what you recommend, I just wish I could find a picture because I don't have a clue what I am looking for and cant seem to find a picture anywhere of it.


    Thanks man
     
  4. Apr 4, 2013 at 10:00 AM
    #4
    scarekrew5

    scarekrew5 [OP] Member

    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2008
    Member:
    #7516
    Messages:
    23
    First Name:
    Krew
    Just wanted to update this thread and say that I looked all around under my truck for loose plugs and found nothing. So I decided to try my 4 wheel drive since the flashing light was gone, but no luck my 4 wheel drive will not engage and now the flashing 4 lo light will not go away.

    Just wanted to see if there were anymore ideas before I take it to the dealer and empty my wallet.
     
  5. Apr 4, 2013 at 10:40 AM
    #5
    Wicked 2007

    Wicked 2007 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2010
    Member:
    #47770
    Messages:
    692
    Gender:
    Male
    Bay Area, CA
    Vehicle:
    2007 Tacoma AT DC SB 4x4
    2007 Tacoma Double Cab SB 4WD - Auto -TRD Off Road - Icon Billet UCA - 8" ORI Front Struts - Bilstein 5100 11" RCD Shock - AllPro Expo Springs - Demello Sliders - Tom Woods 1 Piece Driveshaft - 16x8 Mojave Teflon Rims - Locker Mod - Locker Guard - 35" MT MTZ's - ARB Bumper - Warn 8000 winch w/synthetic line - All-Pro Front Skid/Transmission Skid/Rear Armor - ARB Front Locker - Nitro 4.56 gears - Marlin 4.7 crawl box - Twin Stick FJ t-case - ATO high clearance rear bumper
    have you tried removing the actuator to check the internal condition and possibly bench test with power?
     
  6. Apr 4, 2013 at 11:38 AM
    #6
    scarekrew5

    scarekrew5 [OP] Member

    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2008
    Member:
    #7516
    Messages:
    23
    First Name:
    Krew
    I actually just got finished taking off the rear actuator on the t-case and there was a lot of yellow grease. I cleaned it out and checked for rust but everything looked fine to me. It couldn't tell if it was getting in vacuum though and also I dont know how to test it with a meter.
     
  7. Apr 4, 2013 at 12:38 PM
    #7
    scarekrew5

    scarekrew5 [OP] Member

    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2008
    Member:
    #7516
    Messages:
    23
    First Name:
    Krew
    Update

    I am taking the truck to the dealer in the morning and I will post what the problem is and go from there.
     
  8. Apr 5, 2013 at 4:52 PM
    #8
    scarekrew5

    scarekrew5 [OP] Member

    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2008
    Member:
    #7516
    Messages:
    23
    First Name:
    Krew
    Ok the dealership said my ADD motor was bad, something about it not sending the connection though to let it engage into 4 hi or lo. The part is 370 and they said after labor it would be anywhere from 760 to 1018 dollars so I am going to try to replace it myself.

    So if anyone knows where I can get a write up on replacing it that would be awesome and also does anyone know where I can find Toyota replacement parts besides the dealer?


    Thanks
     
  9. Apr 5, 2013 at 5:10 PM
    #9
    Wicked 2007

    Wicked 2007 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2010
    Member:
    #47770
    Messages:
    692
    Gender:
    Male
    Bay Area, CA
    Vehicle:
    2007 Tacoma AT DC SB 4x4
    2007 Tacoma Double Cab SB 4WD - Auto -TRD Off Road - Icon Billet UCA - 8" ORI Front Struts - Bilstein 5100 11" RCD Shock - AllPro Expo Springs - Demello Sliders - Tom Woods 1 Piece Driveshaft - 16x8 Mojave Teflon Rims - Locker Mod - Locker Guard - 35" MT MTZ's - ARB Bumper - Warn 8000 winch w/synthetic line - All-Pro Front Skid/Transmission Skid/Rear Armor - ARB Front Locker - Nitro 4.56 gears - Marlin 4.7 crawl box - Twin Stick FJ t-case - ATO high clearance rear bumper
    So the ADD in the front diff is bad?
     
  10. Apr 5, 2013 at 9:57 PM
    #10
    File IFR

    File IFR "... Intercepting The Localizer"

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2012
    Member:
    #74145
    Messages:
    4,499
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mike
    Central MA
    Vehicle:
    2012 MGM 4X4 DC-LB TRD Sport
    Thanks for posting the pics. I was always curious to what the actuator looks like.

    One question though..... Is that a vacuum line to the housing? If so, why does it need it? I thought the geared electric motor is all it needs to move the yoke left and right.
     
  11. Apr 5, 2013 at 10:01 PM
    #11
    scarekrew5

    scarekrew5 [OP] Member

    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2008
    Member:
    #7516
    Messages:
    23
    First Name:
    Krew
    Ya thats what they told me the problem was the front ADD motor.

    I'd much rather do it myself than pay 1000$ bucks, so thank you PSU for the part number and the pics. I think I may try to knock this out in a week or two and see if this fixes my problem.

    Cross ur fingers.
     
  12. Apr 5, 2013 at 10:21 PM
    #12
    Johnsredline

    Johnsredline Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Member:
    #79872
    Messages:
    110
    Gender:
    Male
    North Las Vegas
    Barcelona Red- Method Double Standards, Flowmaster Exhaust, K&N intake, black headlights and raptor style grille, ICON stage 4 suspension, allpro sliders
    Before you go and replace expensive parts, id pull the 4wd selector switch out and take it out of the housing, its held in with 3 or 4 tabs. use a small flathead and you can open it up. On the circuit board of the switch there is two diodes, check to be sure they are not bad. When I made a mistake on my locker mod i blew one of these diodes which was causing my 4lo light to blink for whatever reason. Soldered in a new diode and it works fine now.
     
  13. Apr 6, 2013 at 7:12 AM
    #13
    scarekrew5

    scarekrew5 [OP] Member

    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2008
    Member:
    #7516
    Messages:
    23
    First Name:
    Krew
    Do you happen to have a picture so I could check that out before buying the add motor.
     
  14. Apr 6, 2013 at 7:35 AM
    #14
    Johnsredline

    Johnsredline Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Member:
    #79872
    Messages:
    110
    Gender:
    Male
    North Las Vegas
    Barcelona Red- Method Double Standards, Flowmaster Exhaust, K&N intake, black headlights and raptor style grille, ICON stage 4 suspension, allpro sliders
    I don't but it's super easy, pull it from the dash and unplug the wiring. Then just open up the housing and look, you can't miss it there is nothing else in the switch but electrical contact and two diodes
     
  15. Apr 6, 2013 at 8:21 AM
    #15
    scarekrew5

    scarekrew5 [OP] Member

    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2008
    Member:
    #7516
    Messages:
    23
    First Name:
    Krew
    ok ill go check it out now and see i may post a pic too just to make sure
     
  16. Apr 6, 2013 at 8:43 AM
    #16
    scarekrew5

    scarekrew5 [OP] Member

    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2008
    Member:
    #7516
    Messages:
    23
    First Name:
    Krew
    does this look right? or does it look bad?

    photo (4).jpg
     
  17. Apr 7, 2013 at 7:46 AM
    #17
    Johnsredline

    Johnsredline Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Member:
    #79872
    Messages:
    110
    Gender:
    Male
    North Las Vegas
    Barcelona Red- Method Double Standards, Flowmaster Exhaust, K&N intake, black headlights and raptor style grille, ICON stage 4 suspension, allpro sliders
    Diodes can indeed go bad, it's not common but they can go bad. You can hook a voltmeter up and check if they are bad.
     
  18. Apr 7, 2013 at 10:06 PM
    #18
    Johnsredline

    Johnsredline Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Member:
    #79872
    Messages:
    110
    Gender:
    Male
    North Las Vegas
    Barcelona Red- Method Double Standards, Flowmaster Exhaust, K&N intake, black headlights and raptor style grille, ICON stage 4 suspension, allpro sliders
    maybe so, but why not take 5 minutes of time to check something simple instead of buying an expensive part not knowing fully that was the issue.
     

Products Discussed in

To Top