Good Load range for tires

I said USUALLY associated with E rated tires.

 

My truck has the load range E tires that were on it when I bought it. The gas mileage has been great, but the ride leaves a bit to be desired on washboard roads. I found load range C to be satisfactory with my '85 and '94 Toyotas. The only tire problem I had with those trucks was when I put the top of an aspen through the sidewall of one of the original tires on the '85.

 

Pavement ride and washboard is a lot stiffer with my E rated ATm's over the stock P rated Dunlops

Not sure that should be too much of a suprise to anyone though

 

But the more flex in a tire and twist from the soft factory tires such more MPG and are harder to turn then a stiffer tire more weight in the tire.

Why you think they say to air the tires up to the max to make them stiff and easier to roll.

You ever hear anyone say to air down a tire for better MPG, No they say it it more RR.

 

The level kit is Revtek (http://store.revtek.com/p/2005-2013-toyota-tacoma-4wd-prerunner-3-suspension-lift). Buddy has it in his Tacoma and looks damn good.

 

The air pressure holds up the vehicle, not the sidewall. While it is true that the stiffer sidewall of the E rated tire may deflect less, I doubt that this has much affect on fuel economy. If that were the case, a Prius would come with still walled E-rated tires instead of lightweight tires.

 

As another data point, I logged about 1.5mpg less in mixed city/hwy driving during the year I ran 46lb General Grabbers compared to the 36lb stock Dunlops or Goodyear Wranglers I'm currently running.

The extra 40lbs of tires made a much bigger impact on fuel economy than the 200lbs armor I've bolted on. Couldn't justify spinning that extra weight all the time just for the occasional fire road.

 

Read up on the side wall and flex in sidewalls and how it has a affect on MPG.

Look at what they are no looking at for tires on the newer high MPG light cars. They are planing to start using a tire and rim that is different.
Look at history, the rim size is getting so much bigger and less tire more rim.
The weights are staying about the same.
THey found that the ride from the springs are so much better that they do not need or want the flex in the tire.

So you know see tires in rim setup that are 17 and 20" when they were running 14 to 16".
Some of the Eco box cars are now going to be using 20-24" rims with a small tire that dies no flex. It is helping to pick up the MPG and make then easier to roll.

And if you want to talk about the weight being higher on these E tires we are talking about, A weight in motion tends to stay in motion.
So for the highway a spinning weight, get it started then the weight is not a problem.

Now, all that said if you can get the profile of the tire to stay the same then it does not matter what the rate is B, C, D, or E.
You want the tire to stay uniform, true and round.
When they flex the make a wider profile, they push more air, harder to roll.

Easy test other things aside.
Just about anything, sand, grass, wet pavement Dry.
Try a tire at the max air, say on sand.
It will spin, very easy. Air that tire down, you gain traction, friction, and it is harder to turn.
Take two of the same tires/rims in your drive way, air one all the way up, the other on the low side.
stand them up on a slope in the drive, have a stick holding both on the top. Lift the stick so to release both at the same time.
What one gets to the bottom first. Most all the time the full air tire as it is easier to roll and less rolling friction.

There have been several things in engineering rings talking about the trend to larger rims less rubber, less flex to get better MPG, and on the far side they are trying some that are the 22" little rubber real thin deeper tread to offset traction problems going thin.

Just some thoughts on it.

 

Are they the same size? did you check with a tire gauge.
A lot of the tires are marked the same but if you pull tape the are off.

But true, the more weight you add in stop and go can change the MPG, but that could also be driving type, or tire size if they are not the same size height and width.

The heavy tire will be harder to start in motion but when in motion easier to keep moving as it holds energy.

 

Why would you get a spacer kit when you can get 5100s and a AAL and have a much better ride and the same price.

 

Explain this a little more?? If there is a better route to go I will definitely look into it. My buddy has the level kit in his truck and I like the ride from it. What would be the difference?