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Electrical advice needed!

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by xaqori, Apr 16, 2013.

  1. Apr 23, 2013 at 9:30 PM
    #41
    xaqori

    xaqori [OP] Grammer knotsy

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    ARB lockers and 4.88s front and rear, OME 886s, Dakars, etc., Safari Snorkel, 17"Fuel Revolvers w/ 35x12.50r17 KM2s, fenders cut 3" all around, Pioneer AVH-P4400BH w/ Backup cam, CB/PA (PA Installed), Weathertech Digis, Foglight anytime, AP: front bumper, skids, and pack rack, custom sliders, Warn 9.5XP, dual VIAIR 480Cs with a 2.5gal tank, OTRATTW switches galore, URD y-pipe, RCI skids, LF 240s, etc.
    Will do!
     
  2. Apr 23, 2013 at 9:40 PM
    #42
    BradyT88

    BradyT88 Well-Known Member

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    Psshhh!!! 1st gen problems:rolleyes:

    But really, Monte is right. That would be a lot of drag man!
     
  3. Apr 23, 2013 at 9:42 PM
    #43
    acdronin

    acdronin Well-Known Member

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    I haven't had a problem with my 2 700's and 2 500's
     
  4. Apr 23, 2013 at 9:45 PM
    #44
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Horribly.

    Take a 9" dinner plate and hold onto it out the window at 70mph.

    Now take another one and hold it up front... even completely in front of the windshield.
    There's very little airflow within the boundary layer. The boundary layer is very thin... outside of that, it doesn't matter what's behind it. The new item becomes the new windbreak and blows the aerodynamics (such as they are) of the entire cab.
     
  5. Apr 23, 2013 at 9:46 PM
    #45
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    2nd Gen should get plenty of flow from the lower valance.
    Notice how much of the grille area is blocked?
     
  6. Apr 23, 2013 at 9:55 PM
    #46
    acdronin

    acdronin Well-Known Member

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    Summers in the inland valleys where i live top 90-100+ in the summers, have not had and issue yet.
     
  7. Apr 23, 2013 at 9:55 PM
    #47
    acdronin

    acdronin Well-Known Member

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    Correctamundo!
     
  8. Apr 23, 2013 at 9:57 PM
    #48
    acdronin

    acdronin Well-Known Member

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    OP, why don't you start small, get a lightbar on the bumper and learn how to do lighting, one you get the hang of it it's pretty easy once you understand the theory and the numbers
     
  9. Apr 24, 2013 at 5:12 AM
    #49
    xaqori

    xaqori [OP] Grammer knotsy

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    I've got the lighting down. I've just never really taken time to learn the theory or numbers :eek:
     
  10. Apr 24, 2013 at 8:32 AM
    #50
    coma09

    coma09 Senior Member. Hey, what's That supposed to mean?

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    Changing to a deep cycle battery for lighting shouldn't be required as long as the alternator can keep up with the load.
    Here's a link to heavy duty alternators

    https://www.dcpowerinc.com/high-output-alternators.html?model=Tacoma&make=Toyota&year=2011&engine=4.0L+V6+1GR-FE

    Using the 270A alternator and allowing for only 80 % loading of the conductor, you will need to upgrade the alternator to battery wire, and ground wire to a 350 MCM conductor. That's effing huge.

    Conductor sizing should be based on watts/volts= amps
    Use a chart to determine wire gauge. However never load a conductor beyond 80%. You also need to up the gauge if its a longer run to compensate for the resistance of the conductor. If wiring two lights, eg with one conductor, you need to size it for the total load.

    Fusing, relays, etc.

    Gonna have to make a wiring diagram and plan it all in advance.
    Be a fun project, but not cheap.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 19, 2016
  11. Apr 24, 2013 at 8:36 AM
    #51
    coma09

    coma09 Senior Member. Hey, what's That supposed to mean?

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    And it will take roughly 5 HP to drive the 270A alternator.

    Maybe a CAI and Borla exhaust to compensate lol
     

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