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Old 04-27-2013, 05:31 PM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokenTusk View Post
Yup. What are your future plans?
Well i have headers and intake, looking into y-pipe and dynomax turbo muffler.

One day the truck would ideally have a ucon on it
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:11 AM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nofords08 View Post
I'm pretty sure afe makes one, i'll see if i can track one down tomorrow.

Sdhq Offroad actually has them. sweet lol
Send me the part # from your filter, or the measurements (height/flange/top cap dia.) ect and ill cross it with AFE to see if we have a pre-filter on the shelf.
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Old 05-08-2013, 08:44 AM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nofords08 View Post
Well this issue has been happening for 2 years now, literally once every couple of months. I always make sure the filter is clean. I've been thinking about switching to the new style TRD. Yes i know its not as free flowing, but might be better for me offroad?
My 2012 had the same issue, but it didnt start happening until after I had the brakes checked by Toyota.

My brakes were really grabby at 16,000 miles, and squealing. Took the truck in, they adjusted the brakes and main brake control arm (Something like that).

Leaving the dealership, on the highway I lost all throttle for 3 - 5 seconds, engine was still on, but 0 response from pressing the gas. After 3 0r 4 seconds it would recover. This happened several times in the following weeks.

It had something to do with the brake work done by Toyota, I know it did. I eventually got pissed off and traded that Taco in.
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:05 AM   #124
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what did the dealership have to say? I do all my own brake jobs
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Old 08-11-2013, 09:09 PM   #125
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For those still subb'd i pulled the plugs, and they all look like this
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Old 08-12-2013, 08:30 AM   #127
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Like its choking kinda gets a deeper tone
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Old 08-12-2013, 08:53 AM   #129
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So maybe scrap the plans for the new fuel pump?
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Old 08-12-2013, 08:58 AM   #131
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One last thing I've been reading up on. 02 sensors, could they be signaling that it's running too lean and the maf will richer the mixture to the point of bogging?
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Old 08-14-2013, 12:06 PM   #132
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Adding a new twist to this as i have been thinking long and hard on the issue, i almost want to think it started after installing the long tube headers or the are intake
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Old 08-14-2013, 12:18 PM   #134
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Afe stage 2si

I had an AEM Prior to that though
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Old 08-14-2013, 12:22 PM   #136
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I'll double check the headers tomorrow and also i'll double check the 02 sensor bung i remember that it was a PITA to get the stock wire to plug in
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Old 08-14-2013, 12:25 PM   #138
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After i make my final tuition payment for this semester, maybe friday or next friday

I was just going to order everything at once lol
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Old 08-17-2013, 08:09 AM   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torspd View Post
I would still do that as well. Doesn't hurt, and gives you a service-able fuel filter.

Toyota of America was dumb for taking that out. Fail. Toyota - rest of the world has it.
FYI, most all of the manufacturers have moved to the internal fuel filter. Very few vehicles have them anymore. Toyota, Ford, GM, Chrysler, etc. Sucks, yes, but Toyota wasn't the only one who did it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nofords08 View Post
Adding a new twist to this as i have been thinking long and hard on the issue, i almost want to think it started after installing the long tube headers or the are intake
First off, in reference to your PM, don't EVER worry about bothering me with a question. I am more than happy to help as much as I can with any problems. Everyone should feel free to ask for input. That is why many of us are here.
So you BELIEVE that it MIGHT have started after long tube headers and/or ARE intake? Long tube headers will change the air flow through the exhaust. The question would be if the increased flow is causing fault with the A/F sensor. Here is my professional opinion. You might not like it, but everyone knows I am honest, and don't pull punches here. If you want to try your best to save you money, and only buy what you NEED to buy instead of throwing parts at it, then you have to go back to the basics.
You need to first reinstall the factory headers. Will this fix it? We don't know obviously, but since you THINK it may have started back then, then the only way to know for sure is work backwards. Perhaps since the ARE intake is easier, swap back to factory intake first and drive it. We need to eliminate any changes that have occurred around the time your problem first came up. Next comes the REAL pain in the but part: Disconnect your battery, then remove and clean EVERY ground under the hood. Faulty electrical grounds are one of the most common intermittent gremlins in modern vehicle performance issues today. Ask any professional technician, and they will say the same thing. Once you have cleaned all the grounds, do the same with the starter cable at the starter, and both of the battery cables. Connect the "+" cable back first, then the "-" cable last. Remember that at this point the ECU will have reset and it may take a few drive cycles to allow the ECU to settle down and learn it's defaults.

Those are my suggestions to start with, and those would be the exact steps I would take with a vehicle that came into my shop.
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Old 08-17-2013, 08:14 AM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaToy1997 View Post
FYI, most all of the manufacturers have moved to the internal fuel filter. Very few vehicles have them anymore. Toyota, Ford, GM, Chrysler, etc. Sucks, yes, but Toyota wasn't the only one who did it.



First off, in reference to your PM, don't EVER worry about bothering me with a question. I am more than happy to help as much as I can with any problems. Everyone should feel free to ask for input. That is why many of us are here.
So you BELIEVE that it MIGHT have started after long tube headers and/or ARE intake? Long tube headers will change the air flow through the exhaust. The question would be if the increased flow is causing fault with the A/F sensor. Here is my professional opinion. You might not like it, but everyone knows I am honest, and don't pull punches here. If you want to try your best to save you money, and only buy what you NEED to buy instead of throwing parts at it, then you have to go back to the basics.
You need to first reinstall the factory headers. Will this fix it? We don't know obviously, but since you THINK it may have started back then, then the only way to know for sure is work backwards. Perhaps since the ARE intake is easier, swap back to factory intake first and drive it. We need to eliminate any changes that have occurred around the time your problem first came up. Next comes the REAL pain in the but part: Disconnect your battery, then remove and clean EVERY ground under the hood. Faulty electrical grounds are one of the most common intermittent gremlins in modern vehicle performance issues today. Ask any professional technician, and they will say the same thing. Once you have cleaned all the grounds, do the same with the starter cable at the starter, and both of the battery cables. Connect the "+" cable back first, then the "-" cable last. Remember that at this point the ECU will have reset and it may take a few drive cycles to allow the ECU to settle down and learn it's defaults.

Those are my suggestions to start with, and those would be the exact steps I would take with a vehicle that came into my shop.
+1. Great step by step advice!
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