Broken Transmission Input Shaft Snout

Clutch started making noise and feeling rough on engagement/disgagement, through the pedal it felt almost spongy as if it had air bubble in the line. Took the inspection cover off the bell housing and the throwout bearing fork had almost 1/2" side to side play. Pretty much visible that the snout is broken off but is covered over by the bearing sleeve kit I got from URD. Called and Spoke to Gadget there and he has heard of this happening before. Luckily he says the snout is on the bell housing so I just need to find one. Any input?

 

pictures? im unfamiliar with the "snout". you didn't break the input shaft? I/ve never had this tranny down and have no idea what it looks like. . . . . didn't even know it had an inspection plate! gunna have to check that out!

 

It gaurds the slave cylinder too.. ill get some pics when I get the chance 2moro till I take her apart

 

so whats the snout your talking about?

 

It is part of the bell housing and is what the throwout bearing rides on originallly.

 

When you fix it you might want to do this

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/272427-fix-squeaking-clutch.html

 

Won't be doing that.. my TO bearing does not squeak but the clutch chatters. Placing a preload on the bearing should cause it to wear out faster and if it decreases the clamp force of the pressure plate it may cause the clutch to slip even minutely and therefore wear out as well. I do a good deal of towing and hauling and is one of the reasons I installed the stage 4 kit. Besides, I don't really have the money to fix the problem i already have let alone do anything else.

 

Search local bone yards would be the best place to start. Not sure how much it will cost new, but can't be better then used.

 

Cost? 150 cylinder at scrapyard ($15?) plus 1 hour of your time vs. URD kit at $225 plus trans out to install vs Toyota TSB with trans out...which do you think is cheaper?

But if you don't have the problem then great. If you tow I've already told you you might not want to do this. Other vehicle companies preload their TO bearings (like Ford) so this is something that's commonly done and isn't something I've dreamed up.

 

Holy shit, this is kind of scary. The sleeve didn't cause the snout to break, did it?

 

I literally have less than $20 left after bills from paychecks. Sometimes i have to put off bills til the next pay. Bein house poor/broke sux. The only reason i have time to do it this weekend is that the wife works and my mom has the kids. And I already have the URD sleeve kit that did solve the rough bearing travel and minor squeak.

I really hope not unless my brother overtightened the set screw.

 

Not asking for sympathy or bein a drama queen btw..

 

if it broke at the base, I would look really hard for a mobile welder who is set up to do aluminum. as long as it broke where the tob doesn't ride.

I know aluminum welding on used motor parts (especially cast) isn't going to be 100 percent, but you should see the bellhousing one of my co-workers did for another worker's race-car. . . . still works. A good welder would warn you about anything that may go wrong. a bad one will say "no prob" and proceed to wreck your shit.

I hope you get this all figured out. . . im scared

 

Yea I found a tranny I'm going to swap in 2moro and ill try welding up the snout this coming week

 

right on! glad its working out, so the only way for that to break would be throwout bearing binding on it right?

I finally realize the bad design of this tranny, I thought all tobs rode on the input shaft, which would only make sense because its hardened . . . . . wtf were they thinking?

and I didn't see the "custom fab" part under your name. . . . didn't mean to try and tell you about welding lol

 

Lol its all good. I'm about to start the job of dropping the tranny and hope my current finding is correct. As it turns out I show up at the yard to get the tranny and took one more look at it. Had the guy there get in and push the clutch for me. I could not see that the quill was broken but that the sleeve I put in is loose. Going to pull the trans and hope that is all that is wrong

 

Ok so heres the damage from today..


The broken snout "quill" on left URD sleeve on right


Swapped in my old driveshaft after swapping the rear u-joint and flange.. URD y-pipe and my custom straight pipe y-back

 

I know of this happening about 4 times now.

The ones I am aware of are from a clutch release system that is very far out of adjustment. What happens is the slave cylinder drives the release fork into the pressure plate while it is rotating and the collision force just destroys everything in the bell housing and snaps the snout right off.

One of the checks that needs to be done before starting the engine after an installation of a new clutch, release bearing, or any combination of parts, is to have someone push the pedal all the way to the floor while you check the release mechanism and make sure it is not going to come in contact with the pressure plate.

Then start it up and set the clutch push rod length so you have the proper and needed release of the clutch. Then check the release fork to pressure plate clearance again.

The final check is to make sure you can push the release fork back and compress the slave cylinder into its self by hand. If not you will need to make sure the pedal is coming back up far enough to release the pressure on the slave cylinder.

We see this problem all the time with people doing the "clutch pedal" mod which can prevent the pressure from coming off the bearing and preventing the pressure plate from applying its full clamp load on the clutch disc. Seen a couple of clutches burned up by this.

G

 

Thanks Gadget well be sure to check everything when we button it all back up I was just horrified when I saw it today since I elected not to grab the trans Saturday morning even just as a backup plan.

 

Enough instructions from URD that they can say no one ever installs the kit correctly. In the meantime transmissions keep failing. Then a little fearmongering about burning up clutchs. If Gadget is right F150's should be burning up their clutchs all the time. It's your money guys.