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Help me figure out this vibration, I cant take it anymore.

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by KJaikaran, May 24, 2013.

  1. May 24, 2013 at 1:22 PM
    #1
    KJaikaran

    KJaikaran [OP] Well-Known Member

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    2011 Tacoma DCSB TRD Sport
    URD intake/maf calibrator, Icon extended travel coilovers, Icon UCA, OME Dakar leaf packs, Bilstein extended rear shocks, 3 degree axle shims, Carrier bearing drop bracket, DS2 retro, 5k HID bulds top and bottom
    Yes, its another drive line or possible axle wrap question. Vibration between 0-10 mph.

    It all started once the LSD rear end was put in and i never experience it with the original rear end that came in the 2011 2wd sport. Once the LSD rear end went in I first noticed a bad vibe when I would turn at slow speeds such as turning into/out of a parking. I did some research and found out it was the LSD and I needed to add friction modifier and it went away. Its been about 4 months that i have been dealing with this annoying vibration and it also feels more noticeable with passengers. I am getting the vibration from 0-10mph, it only happens when i take off from a dead stop. If i am at a roll at about 5mph or less then accelerate it doesn't do it. I have 3 degree axle shims installed, and the carrier bearing drop from beefed taco, but neither helped.

    I am leaning towards it being the torque applied to the rear end at takeoff causing me some axle wrap or a wheel hop feeling. I did order a traction bar from Budbuilt, but i had a bad experience with them and my order so it was cancelled before trying it out to see if it would have fixed the problem. Since then I have come up with some ideas of just making my own traction bar, but have held off on going any further until I can pinpoint the problem. If its not axle wrap the only other thing i would assume is drive shaft, but i am in between the two. If anyone can give me some idea on what you think it could be before i end up trying to fix the wrong thing i would appreciate it.
     
  2. May 24, 2013 at 1:28 PM
    #2
    The Traveler

    The Traveler Desert Chief

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    Greased/checked U-Joints? Stop on level ground, leave it in neutral and shut it off, no parking brake...climb under the truck, and put a firm hand on the driveshaft and give it some wiggling. If you notice any play in the joints, time to replace.

    My rear U-joint (between the driveshaft and rear axle) was shot, and I had a bad vibration from 0-20. It's completely smooth after replacing it.
     
  3. May 24, 2013 at 3:02 PM
    #3
    P9HST2

    P9HST2 Well-Known Member

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    Are the rear axle U-bolts tightened to at least 70 ft lbs?
     
  4. May 24, 2013 at 8:03 PM
    #4
    white08gt

    white08gt Well-Known Member

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    clutches in your lsd. add some more friction modifier or try some different gear oil. some say nothing but dino oil for rear, others swear by synthetic. usually only get binding when turning right from dead stop, one wheel moving faster than other.
     
  5. May 24, 2013 at 8:38 PM
    #5
    two taco

    two taco Member

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    LSD in a 2011? No LSD after 2008 from factory, its electronic traction control with brakes
     
  6. May 24, 2013 at 8:48 PM
    #6
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

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    Maybe read the OP
     
  7. May 24, 2013 at 8:52 PM
    #7
    iroh

    iroh Well-Known Member

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    IIRC he had a warranty replacement of the rear end and they put in the LSD one for whatever reason. So he has both LSD and ALSD.

    x2 on checking u-bolts.

    I'd pick up an angle finder and see what the driveline is really set up like. The shims and CB drop might be causing more harm than good.
     
  8. May 24, 2013 at 9:07 PM
    #8
    KJaikaran

    KJaikaran [OP] Well-Known Member

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    URD intake/maf calibrator, Icon extended travel coilovers, Icon UCA, OME Dakar leaf packs, Bilstein extended rear shocks, 3 degree axle shims, Carrier bearing drop bracket, DS2 retro, 5k HID bulds top and bottom
    I should have added it in my original post that my u-bolts are torqued down to 90 ft lbs. When I had new u-bolts made to accommodate the OME leaf packs i had them make it in 9/16 and I was told to tighten them down to 90 ft lbs. My u joints do not have grease zerks, they are the sealed u joints.
     
  9. May 24, 2013 at 9:17 PM
    #9
    KJaikaran

    KJaikaran [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I was getting the binding while turning at first, then I added friction modifier and it went away. Maybe i will try changing out the fluid and see how that goes.

    I have both.

    Checking my drive shaft angle was one of the first things I did after some researching on here that it was possibly the issue. I have the measurements somewhere and will post if i find it, but front and rear at pinion were within 1-2 degrees of each other. I cant remember exactly. I read through that drive shaft vibration "solved" thread a while back and it seemed like there were a lot of people that were getting their numbers right, but still getting vibes. Might just end up taking it to a drive shaft shop and get their opinion.
     
  10. May 24, 2013 at 9:27 PM
    #10
    KJaikaran

    KJaikaran [OP] Well-Known Member

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    URD intake/maf calibrator, Icon extended travel coilovers, Icon UCA, OME Dakar leaf packs, Bilstein extended rear shocks, 3 degree axle shims, Carrier bearing drop bracket, DS2 retro, 5k HID bulds top and bottom
    I will give that a try. My u joints are sealed. Is there supposed to be no play at all in them ?
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2013
  11. May 24, 2013 at 9:39 PM
    #11
    ImplicitlyAlberta

    ImplicitlyAlberta VA6DCO

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    What you got for tires my friend?
     
  12. May 24, 2013 at 9:42 PM
    #12
    ImplicitlyAlberta

    ImplicitlyAlberta VA6DCO

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    Toyo open country's? Checked your prof. Not very nobby tires. Hmmm
     
  13. May 24, 2013 at 9:55 PM
    #13
    KJaikaran

    KJaikaran [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I got rid of those a while ago. I am now running Cooper Discoverer At3 275/65/18.
     
  14. May 24, 2013 at 9:59 PM
    #14
    two taco

    two taco Member

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    Mechanical LSD and electronic traction, I'd think computer would throw an error. But vib i'd agree for a LSD clutch
     
  15. May 24, 2013 at 10:10 PM
    #15
    KJaikaran

    KJaikaran [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Haven't had any type of technical, or throwing code issues with having both of them, just this vibe. Wasn't sure what the "LSD clutch" was at first, but it was a quick find. From what i got from reading a little about it is that they are only engaged when one wheel is turning faster than the other like when your are turning slowly. Either way, it cant hurt changing out the fluid to see if i get any results from it.
     
  16. May 24, 2013 at 10:16 PM
    #16
    KJaikaran

    KJaikaran [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Any recommendations on differential oils ? Should I use oil with friction modifier in it already, or without, then add the separate tube of friction modifier ?
     
  17. May 24, 2013 at 10:23 PM
    #17
    Tacoyota

    Tacoyota senile member

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    Could it be a brake drum somehow, since you say its from a stop, dragging a bit maybe?
     
  18. May 24, 2013 at 10:32 PM
    #18
    KJaikaran

    KJaikaran [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Never thought about that being a possible issue, but I will check it out and give them a few spins and see if I have any type of significant friction going on.
     
  19. May 24, 2013 at 11:30 PM
    #19
    two taco

    two taco Member

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    Your learning quick, mec/has clutches and electronics uses brakes to to do the same thing, but at 0 to 10 straight unless spinning all ok, its the turning vibe, which would be clutches
     
  20. May 25, 2013 at 12:15 AM
    #20
    two taco

    two taco Member

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    If drive line checks out : carrier, u-joints, only thing left is the rear end, issue is combo of 2 LSD,s you can isolate one from the other, mec/elc
     

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