Tail Lights Not Working

Hey everyone,
I recently purchased a used 2010 Tacoma back in October. About a month back I discovered that the trailer hookup that had been installed on my truck was very shotty, (after driving from Virginia to California with a Uhaul and having my running lights blink on and off randomly half the way) so I traced all of the wires from it to the rear tail-lights where they had been attached and disconnected them individually because I don't need to tow a trailer any time soon and I want to install the electrical components myself or get a professional to do it later on down the line. I taped everything back up in order to prevent shorts after I had disconnected everything.
Since my trip across the nation with the Uhaul, and after disconnecting the terribly installed electrical kit, my rear tail lights do not come on. My brake lights do, my blinkers do, my running lights up forward do, just not my tail lights. I also discovered that these are LED and looks like I have to replace the entire fixture if they are burnt out. I don't want to make that investment if the problem can be solved in an easier way. No fuses are blown and I thought it was pretty hard to burn out an LED. Any ideas on how I can troubleshoot or even better fix this problem? Thanks!

In summary, my LED tail lights quit working after I disconnected a poorly installed trailer wiring harness. Need to get them working again and any advice would be awesome.

 

Well, you know it was from disconnecting the wires. So you need to troubleshoot the wires and test each one until you come across which one is hot when your lights should be on. Then you need to find which wires are coming from the tail lights and splice those together.

You can use a multimeter that has a continuity check on it to figure out the wires from the tail lights.

 

If you do track it down, don't re wrap electrical tape around the splice. Use a liquid electrical tape to really seal out the moisture. I'd bet you probably have corroded wiring at the splices from water/humidity.

 

Well I did what I should have done before I posted and read some of the older similar posts. I was only looking at the fuse box under the hood, I didn't realize there was another one in the interior. There was in fact a blown 10A fuse in the interior, swapped it out and everything is working well. I will certainly take ya'lls advice to heart and get back into the wiring with liquid electrical tape/heat shrink tubing to ensure the wiring cannot short. Thanks again!

 

Atleast it was easy. Best thing for splicing is to solder the wire together. Much better chance of a long lasting splice.

 

10 amp fuse behind the coin box.