help me diagnos the problem...

The fuel pump relay could be sticking.

 

Similar problems in a Jeep turned out to be crank position sensor going bad. I replaced both crank and cam sensors to be on the safe side.

 

Yeah, that wouldn't probably be an issue..I have a buddy who runs his car down to almost nothing. Could just be luck..

 

a friend of mine mentioned that he replaced the crank position sensor on his sister in-law's Altima last summer when she had a similar problem. no lights on the dash and the Nissan dealership couldn't find anything wrong either beofre he did so.

 

As I understand it, when there is a misfire, the ECU checks the sensors to keep things going smoothly. When it checks and the sensor is going bad, it sometimes gets no/bad reading, which causes the ECU to stumble. Instead of causing possible damage, it just shuts down. The ECU then needs time to reset before starting again. It then queries the sensor again. If the sensor doesn't give a reading upon startup, it won't start and causes the cycle to repeat.

Also, it wouldn't hurt to change the fuel filter. Even if that's not the problem, it's cheap insurance.

 

changing the fuel filter on the second gen is not cheap. its called replacing the fuel pump. which from toyota is like 800 bucks. the filter is in the tank and part of the pump. cant just change it like older vehicles

 

I think almost all are makes are that way now.

 

I can say that my 2006 Chevy Colorado was the same way. Makes little sense from a cost and ease of service angle, but that's just me.

Not to hijack but you can also install an external filter on any vehicle. If and when the tank has to come apart just use the aftermarket pump which eliminates the in-tank filter.

 

Check Coil ignition, Rotor Assy distributor, same situation on 97 ...

 

Look at the connection for the camshaft position sensor and condition of the wiring, sometimes crappy mechanics break it off the timing belt cover instead of removing it correctly. I have seen a few make contact with the belt and cut into it. It would probably be a good idea to pull the timing belt cover off and see if the thin steel plate has a rusty dust covering it, if the rusty dust is present, blow it off with compressed air, remove cam sensor then reinstall. If the plate was rusty as most tend to be, plan on cleaning again and repaint it with a rust conversion paint when your doing the timing belt and water pump. These vehicles have corrosion issues that I have not seen since the chevy vega was being sold. But you probably already know this from the Toyota recalls that you have gotten or soon will receive .

 

Look to the dealer you had it towed to to fix it. Then tell us.
Cranks, doesn't start, starts with ether... fuel something not working. What a help.

 

As mentioned, it will start off ether, so ignition is not an issue, also there has not been a distributor on the Tacoma since the early 97 model 4 cylinders.

There are still other possibilities that can cause no fuel. Yes, most likely you will find a failed fuel pump here, OP, but just because a vehicle will start with ether does not mean it is a fuel pump. Someone mentioned the cam sensor, which is another possibility. A faulty or not-present cam sensor signal will prevent the injectors from firing. While I still agree that the fuel pump is the culprit, I wanted to add more information.

 

service dept at the dealer held on to it for 2 days. said truck started each time, no problems found. one of the service guys drove it for a day, and also found nothing.

i get the truck back Friday, and yesterday it stalls 2 times, back-to-back, while i was midturn in an intersection. awesome.

drove it today, no problems.

i am so frustrated. by the time the problem will be pinpointed, my warranty will be up, haha.

 

Granted this is an intermittent problem, but after all the trouble you have had the dealership should be looking into this further. Personally I would be opening a claim with Toyota corporate to get this taken care of.

With the older repair manuals, they use to come with resistance values to test the electrical components of a vehicle. If the part was out of spec then you simply replaced it. I would think that the mechanics have these values in their factory service repair manuals.

I would tell them to check the fuel pump or open a claim. Its under warranty! Period!

 

i might have to. it's really getting on my nerves that they don't ind anything wrong and their resolution is, "well...i hope it doesn't happen to you while going 70 on the highway or mid-turn in an intersection again."

 

Pump failure is actually more common than you would think on the 2nd gens. Check XR-Underground, and you'll find lots of issues with them. I would go the route of the URD replacement as suggested. For $165, plus a few hours shop time to install, it's worth the peace of mind, and most likely the cure to the problem you have. Check with Gadget over there (or here), and explain your symptoms.

The ether test was a great way to prove the issue was with the fuel pump (IMO).

 

Anyone ever think of hooking fuel pressure gauge up? Fuel pressure is one of the only constants in a EFI system.

 

I had similar problem with a Toyota Camry several yrs ago, but more so stalling & sputtering. Went to dealership twice and they couldn't figure it out. Eventually, problem went away on it's own. My guess was a bad batch of gas, I went to an independent gas station and that's when problem started. After a fresh tank of gas & some Chevron Techron additive, never had the problem again.

 

What kind of air filter are you using? If you are using one that takes oil (K&N?) then I would clean the MAF.

Same exact thing happened to my friend. I suggested the MAF and sure enough, the MAF was gunked up.

 

oh...figure i'd update you guys about this batch of fun.

they held on to the truck for almost 2 weeks. when i was there for maybe the 4th or 5th time, (it had been towed in again), it FINALLY did what i siad it was doing.

after working on it and testing different leads, they figured it was the fuel pump. they drop the tank, they swap the pump. still no power. they do more digging, follow the fuel line and do/check other stuff (i apologize as this was a few months ago and i am vehicle illiterate) and they call me and tell me that the problem was the brain unti to my remote start/alarm. they claim that it was improperly installed, over 3 years ago, and that the box was pushing some harness that caused the truck to keep shorting and in turn caused the pump to go.

they take it upon themselves to "fix" the problem. i know the person who put it in, and i know where he put the brain. no way that thing came loose. it was also done through a install place and not some hack job in a drive way of a friends house. i mention this solely because i had, before it was tampered with with out my knowledge, a lifetime warranty attatched to it. had the told me what the issue was before fixing it, i could have had it checked out and would know if it was in fact a valid problem.

anyhow, i get a call saying that the truck is fixed, and that they are going to be nice and bill the fuel pump repair as a warranty issue, as a favor, because they technically didn't have to do it as it was caused by an aftermarket part. bullshit. bullshit. bullshit. but then they drop the "we will charge you for 6 hours of labor for the remote start rewire/reinstall.

longer story made long made short: i fucing lost it. had to keep myself from going down there and throwing bricks through their windows and in the end, only paid $150, which i was still against, but they tired charging me over $600.

and the truck runs well now, and i still want to kill the service manager at the deaership, but i'm happy the truck is fixed.

sorry for the long read. hope it made sense.