2nd Gen 4x4 35s 3" Lift w/o BODY LIFT

My set ups a bit different being LT on 35s.

One of the other guys should be able to steer you in the right direction. As always there's a ton of variables with tire sizes, uca etc so make sure you look for someone with a very similar set up.

 

What brand glass is this?

I'm on 4.3 and rub the frame but not the UCA, I think another inch should work so shoot for 3.5 ???

 

This! No point in buying aftermarket wheels then slapping spacers on it.

I'm running TC UCA, Hankook 315's on 4" BS and have slight frame rub at full lock but clear the UCA barely.

 

Mickey Thompson Classic Beadlocks are available in two BSings. One of them is 3.6" I believe. About $140/wheel

 

Thanks for the input guys! I agree about not running wheel spacers. I'd like to get the propper wheels from the get go.

I do have Camburg 1.25 UCA's if that's helps at all.

Are there any non headlock wheels that have the BS needed? Also BS is relative to width right? So how wide of a rim do you all run with 3.5"BS?

 

So is this more of what I need?

17x9, -38/3.5?

Too bad these wheels are $340 a pop!

 

Yes BS is relative. There are some good charts floating around

 

All pro/ trailer products

 

Best ones I found were pro-comp rock crawler steelies @ 2.5 BS

 

In my research for 35's I was looking at these flairs. How much work was it to get them to fit? I am thinking it maybe cheaper and easier than trimming the stock ones.

 

Nice thing about steelies is you can always do a diy beadlock later down the road

 

So dou you guys get mud stuck between trimmed quarter panel and trimmed flare?

 

less than stock. stock flares have a lip on them, so anything that gets in is hard to get out. even if you try to get the hose in there, if you pop the flare off, it's still filthy. much easier to clean after it's trimmed.

 

troof.

 

Ok so let's see if I have this right....

To fit 35's you need the following.

1. 35's with rims that have 3.5" of backspace. (Assuming 8" or 9" wide)
3. CMC or relocate
3. Trim 2-4" from fenders (or glass)
4. Pound pinch weld flat
5. More pounding of wheel well, especially around the cab mount.
6. 4.56 gears for manual, 4.88 for auto transmissions.

Anything else?

 

I would say the backspacing one is debatable (I think 4" bs is perfect for my setup) but all the other stuff is spot on.

 

i ahve 4.3" bs and dont have any rubbing issues

 

Cool! So that's the part I have a hard time pinning down. Most of the wheels I have found with the 3.5bs are bead locks, but I would rather run non bead locked wheels. I'd also like to avoid using spacers, but it looks like 16x8 with 4.5bs and a 0.5bs would work.

Update, I forgot about the caster!

1. 35's with rims that have 3.5" of backspace. (Assuming 8" or 9" wide)
3. CMC or relocate
3. Trim 2-4" from fenders (or glass)
4. Pound pinch weld flat
5. More pounding of wheel well, especially around the cab mount.
6. 4.56 gears for manual, 4.88 for auto transmissions.
7. Align caster to over 2.4, or maxed out with camber and tow at 0.

 

I think you have the gears wrong. I am on 4.56s on an auto and it's perfect IMO. I read a few times it was 4.88s with a manual to not be a pain to shift.