Throwing P0500 code and continiously blowing IGN1 No. 2 fuse

Any sign of the homotrons (ghey electrons that go around blowing fuses) yet?

 

Lol... nothing affirmative yet. I did double check my illuminated 4wd selector switch mod, and did find the electric tape had come off one of the pins I left on the end of the leads that had the potential to come into contact with other pins in the back of a connector on the ac controls. Clipped it off to rule out any potential there.

Tried to look at the trailer plug, but couldn't get the plug to separate from the housing by releasing the four clips that hold it in place to check the area by the crimps. Already broke one bolt flange off the housing, so I gave up before I made things worse. I did find a bunch of dried up mud in the 90 degree casing on the back of the harness though, so it makes me wonder.

 

I am also wondering if my hyper tech speedo calibrator is causing the issue...but am going to drive the truck a bit today to see if the problem is still present.

 

Depending on where it draws power from, I guess it's a possibility.
It could easily be the cause of the code, not sure on the blown fuse.

 

It plugs in between the speedo itself and the harness from the truck. Beings as I lose the speedo when the fuse blows, I would imagine the calibration unit draws power from the same circuit.

 

Is it easy to access? Maybe try disconnecting it temporarily and see if the problem persists.

 

Not really, it requires pretty much pulling apart the whole dash on the driver's side and removing the gauge cluster.

The fuse hasn't blown since clipping the exposed pin off, so I am cautiously optimistic the problem has been resolved. I'll be sure to keep you guys up to date if the problem occurs again.

 

Hopefully that was it.

There's a reason I use heat-shrink tubing instead of tape for anything that is intended to be even semi-permanent.
If it's under the hood, I use the heat shrink that has an adhesive liner.

Getting ready to go through those drawings... been back and forth with a bunch of crap today, and damned near passed out from the heat changing the oil and plugs earlier. Just now really feeling "normal" again.

 

Wow. It's pretty difficult to trace, but it looks like it does get into the AC cluster area (feeds power to the blower control?). It does go to the rheostat... there are two + connections, the one from IGN2, and another from the Tail fuse. IGN2 activates only the dash lights, the Tail fuse activates the switch lighting and the center console.
I'm finding references to IGN1 No.2 on over half of the pages... that circuit provides power to a part of pretty much everything.

This pin that you clipped... what was it originally connected to?

 

That is what I was afraid of. If it wasn't the pin, I have no clue where to even start trouble shooting. And will likely see a new truck in my future...

The pin was originally connected to the end of a lead from the illuminated 4wd selector switch PCB that Shannon sells on here and eBay. I t-tapped the wire behind my ac controls per his install instructions instead of using the pin installation method. I just taped over the pins on the end of both leads in case I changed my mind on the install method. I hope that makes sense...

 

Okay, that makes sense.
I would think that might be on the Taillight fuse, but I suppose it might be tied through IG2.

That's the one thing that I dislike about shop manuals in PDF format... it's a lot easier to have it laid out on the bench, especially when tracing off-page connectors.
I bought the shop manual for my motorcycle.

I guess if it blows again, bypass the speedo calibrator. As much of a pain as it is.

 

That will be my next move if the problem persists!

 

I'll print the pages that apply to what I'm working on.

I probably had 25% of my Vulcan's manual printed when I just bought the damned thing. Sadly, printed manuals are getting harder and harder to obtain, even for shop techs.

That's what Kinko's is for.

 

Just to update you guys, I haven't blown another fuse since clipping the pin off the end of the lead from my illuminated 4wd switch. I am pretty sure that was the culprit.

 

No problem! One of my biggest pet peeves is threads with no resolution!

 

Problem has returned...once again towing the trailer! I hate this truck. Now the fuse won't even run when replaced just immediately pops again. Stuck on the side of the road now with my wife seven week old baby and nephew with no ac in 100 degree weather. I need some major help on this one seriously considering selling this pos if I can't get it figured out...

 

And for clarification it is ig1 no 2 fuse that is the trouble spot.

 

Damn. Well a dead short usually is easier to trace. Have you tried disconnecting the trailer, then installing a new fuse to see if it pops instantly still?

 

So looking at the schematics I have, the IG1 fuse powers the backup lamp switch (at brake pedal) and the turn signal flasher, as far as the trailer itself. Now there is ALSO an IG1 no2 fuse. Which one is it that blows?

 

did you disconnect that calibrator and return it to stock yet ?