Warped Rotors / Drums

Okay, I'm late to this discussion, but when the brakes on my 2006 Tacoma Pre Runner started vibrating the steering wheel at 80K miles, I changed rotors and pads. I got them from Toyota thinking they would sell me the highest quality parts. I now have less than 20K on the new parts and here we go again with the vibration. I do stop and go driving, but am not slamming the brakes on or setting the emergency as tight as I can when the brakes are red hot, or going through freezing water... just normal around town driving. Is there a better source for parts for my truck? Brakes should not go bad or get warped this easily. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I'm going back to Baja for a couple of months and want to get this problem corrected before my trip... Scott

 

Actually, slow gradual braking can contribute to the warping. Think of it from a physics standpoint: The longer your pads are pressing against the rotor, the more heat is generated. This heat needs to cool off carefully of course. In stop and go traffic the rotors get hot and cool a LOT, and frequently. This increases the risk of warped rotors. Now I am no pro when it comes to rotors. I have seen so many different brands or rotors that last, or don't last, that is just crazy. What I WILL speak up on is brake pads.

A good set of brake pads will actually improve your braking, and your heat issue. How? A good set of pads will actually be capable of providing better braking force, with less heat generation. This improves cooling, and reduces the risk of warping.

So where do you start? EVERY customer that comes into my shop with a request for brakes gets the same suggestion: Get the ceramic brake pads. These pads not only have improved braking but eliminate brake dust that makes the wheels look so horrible. Interestingly enough ceramic pads are not that expensive. I sell Wearever brake pads, which are sold at Advance, and I have not had a single customer complain about them. One customer drives a 1500 GMC and he tows a boat and a camper, and says that the truck stops better than when it was new. He has 20k miles and you cannot see any signs of wear yet. Ceramic is the way to go if you are replacing your pads. It's what the performance cars use.

 

At 22 k the stealership replaced mine. Now 10 k later I'm having the same problem again.

 

Okay, I'll try the ceramic pads, but should I buy the rotors from Toyota or is there a better replacement part out there? In the good old days turning drums and rotors was normal, today it seems that isn't the case. On a Volvo I owned 10 yrs ago, turning rotors was not an option, they had to be replaced if warped and that car stopped better than any car I've owned. I think because the material was softer and heated up more evenly...

 

You do make a VERY good point on making sure the initial bedding needs to be done. And you might have something there as well with the uneven pad deposits.

You can but the rotors from Toyota, at your option. Personally I think any top-brand name like Wagner, Wearever, or others like that should be just fine. Again though, that is your choice and opinion.

 

40K on mine and I tow a camper up and down the mt. of northern new England no shake here. Judging from the pad ware I should be able to get 80-100K out of them you all drive mostly city?

 

I drive 36 miles each way in stop an go traffic. It takes me 1 1/2 hr or more each way. 30 of those miles are freeway. Im breaking a lot but from 20 mph.
Most of the time i carry 300 pounds, a couple of days per month i carry 900 pounds.

 

Thanks for posting this The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System
I didn't know about pad break in or deposits on the rotors until I read that. I know that few people are going to break in the brakes or worry about cementite formation, but I'm going to follow their recommendations and see how it goes. I believe my problem is from stop and go driving as I heat the brakes up and hold the pedal down at intersections daily. I really have no choice, but now I'm aware of what that can do and will try easing up when I can...

 

Yes, that is an interesting article. Very informative, never knew most of that.

 

I've replaced more brakes thanI can remember and never "bedded" them. Unless you are towing there shouldn't be problems with brakes and rotors on a new vehicle. 50K maybe.. Mine made a little noise for a while but have smoothed out nicely at 20K.

 

I've recently had some shudder when braking (mostly braking from higher speeds, 40/50+). I replaced my rotors and pads no more than a year ago and also did a rear rebuild around the same time. I find it odd that im already having issues with them, and possibly being warped.

any insight on this?

 

I don't know if I can believe that all warped rotors are only brake pad deposits. One time we did a brake job, new pads and rotors. When we test drove it the car shook hard when braking. We put the rotors on the brake lathe and cut .008 off to fix. the brakes had less than 5 miles on them. They were warped from the factory.

 

Same issues I have seen regarding pulsing brake complaints as well. It has always been a warped rotor that was obvious when spun on vehicle with a dial indicator or when placed in the brake lathe.

I do believe in most of what stop tech writes but not all since they are in the game to play their product to be the best and make money for their company. Door Ding is gonna be rich soon from endorsing them, is it a pay per click deal?

Rotors and drums are a poor quality steel typically unless you pop for a higher end brand. Even some of those are lowering their standard to compete.

I have had good luck with Brembo blanks and EBC or hawk pads on vehicles that tow or race. Most daily drivers are good to go with a quality blank rotor and a ceramic pad.

Warping can be very common after a panic stop at high speeds and instant cooling due to water but vehicle brake system design has alot to do with warping as well since some models you will never see come in with warped rotors.

Torque stick ???? Hmmm what is that??? Torque Wrench???? Na just hit it with a impact gun, I set it on 2 it should be ok. Way to common of a practice. Causes alot of problems as well from broken studs to warped rotors.

I believe the tacoma has a decent brake system this cannot be said for their tolerances on driveline angles and driveline bearings.

 

I have a 13 TRD OR 4x4 which I had to get my front rotors and pads resurfaced and had to have my rear drums replaced due to vibration and pulsation. It only had 4,500 miles when done. They also balanced the wheels. It was all covered under warranty. I too dont see why this would happen at such an early age. My previous tacoma which had 35K had no break issues.

 

You forgot lesser quality components and poor quality control...

 

My bad... but since I do my own work and am the only one to drive the truck, I must blame the factory parts...

 

Hey guys, I don't have vibration issues.
But every time when I have a panic stop, I feel that my rear tires are locked up and is just gliding over the road.... Making it not stopping? If u know what I mean..... Is that because the rears are drum brakes?

I have to drive my truck at speed limit,I feel that if I'm speeding, I won't be able to stop on time if anything happens lol

 

But is there a way I can make the brakes feel more like stoppable?
I am worry that one day some idiot just cut me and my brakes just can't stop the truck lol

 

Oh I see....
I have only 1k miles on my truck and I see a slight groove on my rotors surface.
It haven't give me any vibration or shaking..... So it might be a while before I change them out.....


But I got my eyes on the brembo blanks..... Undecided On pads yet.....
Any recommendation on pads?

 

You came from driving a WRX. You are now driving a vehicle that weighs 1,000 pounds more and has a poor weight from front to rear as well.

Your truck is likely working just fine.

You are going to get slight grooves and marks in any rotor or drum.

Wrx 60-0 112 ft
Tacoma 60-0 150 ft