Lets talk Lockers!

Haven't yet, been buying bumpers and bed racks...etc.

 

Have an ARB rear air locker on my 4Runner. Works wonderful. Went with the ARB mini air-compressor (ARB was running special: the mini compr was free). If you go with the larger one air compr, you can use it as onboard air.

Forgot...someone shot video of my first time to use the locker. Lots of trucks backed down or were winched out at this spot. Locker got me through it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D2JRUSY6rdc

 

David,
Going through some threads on lockers, re-gearing etc which I might consider in the future and wanted to know what is the zero point calibration you refer to? My build is here (http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-builds/301096-arrowshots-build-2.html#post7817239) and I am getting some All Pro Expedition rear leafs to replace the Icon AALs for more lift to compensate for back bumper/swing gate/shell/etc. Is this something I needed to do to my truck but have not?
Thanks

 

For a DD, I put in a truetrac. It's not really a locker, but it normally spins both tires. I've lifted a tire a couple times and like most LSDs, it turns into an open diff. But a little ebrake and I crawled right out

 

ARB for sure.

 

I had a Detroit installed & it blew apart after about 1200 miles they covered it under warranty after being sent back & inspected & so far I'm happy with it, not as bad driving characteristics as some people claim if I would've had the money I may have went with arb but other than buying a defective part I'm happy

 

The first Detroit I ever bought exploded pretty quickly. And it was in a 4 cyl. TJ. They also covered it under warranty. I then put them in the front and rear of my 6 cyl. TJ and never had a problem. I think the perfect setup is an ARB out back and a Detroit up front IF you have locking hubs. I ended up w/ ARBs front and rear and HATED it up front. It got tiring locking, unlocking, and locking the front when you needed to steer. With the Detroit, all you need to do to get it to unlock is let up off the gas, make your turn, and it will lock up again when you get the diff under power again. On road you just unlock the front hubs and you wouldn't even know it has a locker in it.

The Detroit in the rear makes a ton of noise on the street in tight turns under power. It'd pop so loud that it make other drivers in other cars nearby jump and look for what all that noise was.

 

I have yet to hear the loud bangs and such only when I'm backing out of a stall and then put it in drive do I hear a noise or vice versa like bad u joints and even at that its not all the time

 

The zero point calibration resets the VSC computer. It can be done by yourself using the method in the below referenced thread. Rarely, resetting it yourself doesn't work properly. When the dealer does it, they not only zero it, they reflash the memory - had to have that done on my wife's 4Runner once to clear a code. Modern alignment shops reset the VSC zero point with every alignment, if you had an alignment done with your lift, it may have already been done.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/194251-vsc-not-working.html


Do you need to do it? Can you feel the VSC kicking in and fighting for control of the truck when it shouldn't? Usually you can feel it when going around a corner, the VSC kicks in trying to make the vehicle go straight because the VSC thinks you're sliding when you aren't. If you are having those problems then try the manual zero point calibration. If the manual reset doesn't work, take it to the stealership and pay $50-100 to have them do it. If your truck isn't acting up, don't worry about it.

HTH

David

 

Truck is not acting up at all and can't feel the VSC kicking in so don't think the VSC fix is needed for now. I disconnected my batteries God only knows how many times doing my dual battery install and no issues noted.

This part is not clear - "Rarely, resetting it yourself doesn't work properly." Did you mean to say "It is rare that resetting it yourself doesn't work properly."???

The "stealership" (they are actually pretty fair and knowledgable here) did my alignment after they installed my Icon shocks and new UCAs and it has been riding great (better than when I first got it) but there was no software for the 2014 for them to check the alignment when I brought it in for maintenance last time. That said it is riding great with no abnormal wear on the tires or steering wheel pull. I don't think they reset the calibration when they did the install though and will talk with them about it when I visit next time.

If not calibrated could it also effect the calculations for my MPG and if so what is it likely to show, less or more??

Thanks for the help.

 

Arrowshot,

The VSC is vehicle stability control. It uses a combination of yaw sensors, steering wheel position sensors, abs sensors (and more I'm probably missing) to detect when the vehicle is in a slide and to correct the slide. Because of the ties to these systems its obvious that when you perform a lift and change suspension componentry you can have a malfunction if you don't tell the system "this is the new zero point (stable) setting".

Just getting an alignment on a stock unmodified vehicle can cause problems with the VSC if a zero point calibration isn't performed. For this reason, a zero point calibration is supposed to be performed when ever you replace/modify suspension compnents and/or perform an alignment.

All of the new alignment machines have a zero point calibration built into them as part of the alignment. The various vehicles all speak the same VSC computer language, becuase its mandated by the government just like OBDII. If you get an alignment at a shop with older alignment equipment they either manually perform zero point or it isn't done.

Zero point calibration whether done by the alignment computer or done manually works the same way - you are talking to the VSC software saying this is the stable condition now. The manual ZPC sometimes has trouble clearing codes - you can get zero point reset but can't get the codes cleared so the various VSC, TRAC lights may not turn off even if the condition causing the code gets corrected (for instance a broken ABS sensor wire MAY throw a code that cannot be cleared even when repaired).

The dealership has equipent that the alignment shop doesn't. The dealership ZPC starts by reflashing the VSC program (a fresh uncorrupted copy is written over the previous program)' then dealership equipment establishes zero point calibration. Because of the reflash, the dealership can clear codes that the manual or alignment computer ZPC cannot.

When you have an alignment performed at the dealership, the ZPC (including the reflash) is part of the alignment - you have had a zero point calibration performed by your dealership.

The VSC / ZPC has no effect whatsoever on mpg calculations. Changing to larger diameter tires will affect mileage calculations, because you are actually travelling further with each rotation of the tire, but your odometer is indicating the same miles travelled as if you still had the smaller tires. Of course larger/heavier tires DO reduce your gas mileage even if the calculation is corrected....

David

 

David,
Very much appreciate all the feedback and helped immensely. One more small question - Would ARB locker install likely invalidate my warranty (2014 Tacoma with less than 10K)?

 

I'm no expert on warranties.

Generally speaking, they have to prove that the modification caused the problem to invalidate the warranty.

Will the diff with the ARB locker be covered? No

Will associated stressed components like CV joints on a truck w/ front ARB be covered? Almost guranteed no.

Warranty for Less clear cut associated parts like driveline u-joint? Transmission? Maybe? I could see that going either way, bit you are at the mercy of the dealership's opinion.

Engine warranty? Probably no effect, but who knows for sure if they think there was some additional stress from the locker use.

Air conditioning? Interior seats? power windows/locks? Should be no problem.

Personally I wouldn't sweat the warranty - if you add lift, big wheels, lockers, armor, etc - you are pretty much planning on putting the truck in harm's way and you can't realistically expect the warranty to cover it for you. All that said, even heavily modified they are still very reliable vehicles.

David

 

Great answers Dave and appreciate very much your insight. Will probably run the same question by ECGS since I would probably have them do an install for me although it is somewhat down the line financially.