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Toolbox bedrail relocate

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by cowman71, Sep 16, 2013.

  1. Sep 16, 2013 at 12:12 PM
    #1
    cowman71

    cowman71 [OP] Member

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    Somewhere I remember seeing a thread where someone relocated the bedrail tie down track from the front of the bed to their toolbox but I'm not turning up anything in a search. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
     
  2. Sep 16, 2013 at 12:22 PM
    #2
    Justus

    Justus fucks not given

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    In ur toolbox
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    not so low, not so slow 2006 6 lug
    stockish
    it was me

    it was on a weathergaurd box with a factory recess.

    the work was done by another member on here to my truck

    [​IMG]


    almostnogap_b9ad9f7505fc10cf2b1e1ad46186410fd1a565e2.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2013
  3. Sep 16, 2013 at 12:24 PM
    #3
    Justus

    Justus fucks not given

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    In ur toolbox
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    not so low, not so slow 2006 6 lug
    stockish
    before
    beforep_e9535728eda056d5ec074e3eef28fa414f5fec7e.jpg
     
  4. Sep 16, 2013 at 12:42 PM
    #4
    cowman71

    cowman71 [OP] Member

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    Thanks.

    Did he reuse the original nuts/studs that were in the bed or simply some metric nuts and a washer on the inside? I thought I remembered the thread having some pics on how the rail was secured on the inside of the toolbox.
     
  5. Sep 16, 2013 at 12:52 PM
    #5
    Brian007Taco

    Brian007Taco 007Taco

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    If you ask. You don't know me very well!
    Mesa, AZ to NM to OK to UT back to Mesa
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    12 OR DCSB 4x4 265/75/16 Goodyear Ultra Terrain wrapped on MB352's. OME 886's w/5100's front and back, and Dakars. Derped Emblems. KM Fab sliders, Mobtown Front and back bumpers w/tire gate, KM Fab Bed Rack, Bestop Supertop, Matt Gecko bed lights. Tree Smashed Taco 06 OR AC Prerunner! OME 885 with 5100's in front, TSB and AAL with 5125's in back. 30" light bar in the valance.
    That's awesome and looks great.
     
  6. Sep 16, 2013 at 5:18 PM
    #6
    Justus

    Justus fucks not given

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    In ur toolbox
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    stockish
    the factory bolts from the rail were used on the toolbox to assure the cleats had enough room to slide in the rail.

    iirc we used #8 bolts to attach a piece of boxed steel where the bedrail was before, to provide some support to the backwall of the bed.

    The factory torx bolts were used on the toolbox, along with (in this order working from the bolt head)........

    1 flat body washer
    1 rubber washer (not an o ring, but an actual rubber washer)
    .....
    to toolbox face (outside)

    then working from the backside of the toolbox (inside) the order was.........

    1 flat body washer
    1 lock washer
    1 nylock nut.

    all hardware was from lowes.

    never leaked

    insanely strong box, so I cannot account for the durability of any other toolboxes... the weathergaurds are damn near bulletproof, even that box I had weighed 80+lbs empty and it was ALUMINUM.
    They are actually made by KNAACK, which says alot to me... Def not a kobalt/husky special. Ive had both, and theres a massive difference.

    Happy hunting.

    fwiw, u will have to cut down the bolts when u reuse them in the toolbox, make sure to grind em down smooth or u may gouge urself digging in the toolbox at a later date..... Also, make sure to paint the box steel u use on the back of the bed.
     
  7. Sep 17, 2013 at 7:36 AM
    #7
    cowman71

    cowman71 [OP] Member

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    Thanks! I appreciate the info.

    I never considered the need to reinforce the rear of the bed after removing the rail but I certainly will now.
     
  8. Jun 2, 2014 at 9:36 PM
    #8
    Ragamorph

    Ragamorph Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys. I just relocated my rear bed rail onto the front of my weatherguard as well. I choose to cut it to length so I could fit the end caps on. I put a 1/8 rubber strip just on the inside with tiny slits cut and forced the bolts trough. Then I backed it with a 14ga steel plate for reinforcement for the toolbox. I used a lock washer and a tension nut to lock it in. I used a hammer drill with socket attachment to make sure the rubber mat was tight enough to create a weather proof seal.
    ha5esety_db804d7136ebbd9b296d97e1abe5073bdebb5924.jpg
    The silver rectangles are are my high lift mount points.
    re9ega6u_ca7c7b6979aac09da21cb680d4044eb98c56bb0c.jpg
    9e9u9ebe_6de9017c8f7559cd37f5f1880f22717e31770730.jpg
     
  9. Jun 3, 2014 at 3:25 AM
    #9
    boomer6

    boomer6 Well-Known Member

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    Looks great.
     
  10. Jun 3, 2014 at 4:46 AM
    #10
    vram74

    vram74 Well-Known Member

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    Question: Why would the back of the bed need re-enforcement after removing the rail? Surely they didn't design the bed so fragile that a strip of removable plastic is supposed to be an integral part of its structure?

    I'm glad I stumbled across this thread as I was wanting a toolbox, but also didn't want to sacrifice the use of the rear rail.
     
  11. Jun 3, 2014 at 5:19 AM
    #11
    MagneticTaco79

    MagneticTaco79 COLD ASS HONKY

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    ALL KINDS OF SHIT
    This looks great, awesome idea.
     
  12. Jun 3, 2014 at 10:38 AM
    #12
    Ragamorph

    Ragamorph Well-Known Member

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    Vehicle:
    ‘06 TRD Off-road 4x4, Manual, Access Cab
    Fab Fours pre-runner front/rear bumper, Anzo projector Head/tail/3rd brake lights. JL door speakers, JL amp, JL StealthBox (center console), Double din aftermarket deck. Weather tech floor mats, SOS Concept Sliders, 3” lift, steel skid plate, Fuel 20x10 wheels, 285 tires, low profile steel bed rail and tailgate caps, K/N high flow intake, Warn winch, and so much more.

    I thought the same thing until I took that strip of plastic off and it turned out to be 10ga steel. I always thought they were plastic.
     

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