Ram Mount and USB Charger Locations

I'm working on adding a RAM Mount to my 2013 Tacoma SR5. I've seen a few options on this forum, such as from the driver side grab bar. I'd prefer something mounted to the dash (although I thought the grab bar was pretty clever).

I'm considering two locations for the RAM ball:



Option A: The triangular space below the air vent horizontal wheel to the left of the radio.

Option B: One of the spare switch blanks to the left of the wheel (the upper bank has two blanks). With this option I also plan to add a USB charging jack in the second blank.

I've added these locations to the picture below:



For Option A: Can someone tell me if there is room behind the flat space below the air vent wheel control for a 1/4-20 lock washer and nut? I'd rather not have to dismantle my dash to find out there isn't!

For Option B I'm considering two methods. The first would be to move the fog lamp switch to the lower bank where there is a blank (not sure if there is enough wiring slack - anyone know?) and machine up a thick aluminum plate which covers all three spaces and is held in place with either toggle bolts or just three screws with fender washers and nuts behind the switch blank openings. I would machine an opening for the USB port and drill a hole for the 1/4-20 bolt for the ball.

The second approach using the switch blanks would be to use the blanks themselves, one of the ball, one for the USB port. The USB port would be easy and this seems like a good method for that. Using the blank to mount the ball concerns me a bit as these blanks weren't meant to support the force the RAM Mount could exert on it. I could add a fender washer or toggle bolt behind the blank to try and stiffen it up.... but seems like it could get wobbly.

I'd appreciate any thoughts from those more mechanically gifted than myself. Is either location likely to provide a more solid mounting point?

 

I don't have answers to your questions but I am interested to see where this goes.

Sub'd

 

Well, I opted for Option A. After ordering a special 12V to 5V @ 3A DC/DC converter with a USB panel mount, I discovered that it didn't have the necessary circuitry to allow an Android device to actually charge at 2A, making it next to useless. I ended up hacking apart not one, but two lighter adapters (the first one mysteriously filled with epoxy during installation....). So, the final result:



FIrst step was to remove the stereo and the center dash panel. Using the panel popper tool and working slowly with a couple searches on these forums for tips, I was able to get it out without any damage (one clip snapped, but not in an important way, it still works fine):



Next, I carefully located a place for the hole and used a sharp 1/4" Forstner bit for the ball mount.



Here is the RAM Mount ball, arm, and X-Mount installed:



I then carefully marked (with a knife) an outline of the USB slot on the back of the panel using the device itself as a guide. Some have a flange, some are straight. Try to get a straight one so the hole can be smaller. Also, try to get one where the jack sits proud of the circuit board or mount so it can sit into the panel a bit, otherwise the plug might not insert fully. I drilled two undersized holes and very carefully finished the rectangular hole with a small square and flat file. File a tiny bit, test the fit again, until it fit just snug.

<REDACTED lots of cursing and swearing at the useless dc/dc adapter and the first usb adapter I filled with epoxy/>

Now, use some scotch tape to cover any holes in the metal jack that might get filled with epoxy... cough... ask me how I know... and mix up some 5 minute epoxy and apply carefully. In my case, the circuit board provided three points of contact which I set with super glue to hold it in place, then applied the epoxy with a small craft stick, then working the epoxy back into place as it tried to run all over the place. A panel mount is desirable in my opinion, but mine was useless with only two wires running to it (need 4 and some circuitry to enable full speed charging on modern devices). If this one breaks, replacing it will not be much fun.



After the epoxy cured, run the power lines. I planned on running these to a fuse tap, but it turned out to be a lot easier to tap power and ground from the 12V lighter supply just below the center panel.



Finally, reinstall the panel, stereo, and all those other "extra" parts...

 

You did a good job but it blocks the view of the radio and that would drive me nuts.

I opted for this set up....

Galaxy Note 3 at my fingertips







​

 

As it turns out the picture makes it look a lot worse than it is, but it does block it some. I only use the radio over Bluetooth from the phone (90% anyway), so it works for me. I had it down low as you have shown, but I didn't like it there for Navigation as it meant looking away from the road for too long. I should try to get a better picture that reflects what it actually looks like from the driver's perspective.

 

Ah... Yeah I can see that. I didn't pay close enough attention to your radio. I thought yours was a Nav unit also. Yeah, it would be a issue where I've got mine mounted then.

 

Right, blocking a nav unit would be a problem. I guess I'm a cheapskate, but I couldn't see paying the money for the nav unit when the phone app was free, had better integrated search, more up to date maps, connected with my address book and Google favorites, etc etc. Anyway, lots of options out there. I'll get a better pic issued later today.

 

I did the A-pillar handle version back when I was deciding where to integrate my GPS unit in without the stupid window suction mount. It has worked very well for me, though I could imagine anyone with big hands (and depending on size of your GPS) would come in contact with it by turning the steering wheel, unless you opt for one of the shorter RAM arms.

Looks good though! Those "tech deck" things a guy is selling on here would also be a viable option for anyone as well, though I think where you implemented it is better.

 

The tech deck is interesting. Much easier to install. I think this ball with the threaded post and some countersunk machine screws would tidy up the tech deck too.