Mod Day. Mod 2. Installing power point in center console -clean look, LOTS OF PICS-

AaronArf · Sep 15, 2014

Good write up on how to remove the lower panel - Might come in handy for when I install OTRATTW switches in that panel. Going to try to do it while its still in the truck though.

Here is another easier to access location to mount a USB or 12V outlet.

yota243 · Sep 15, 2014

condensation from drinks not an issue there? i'd be kinda leery about moisture getting in there

ramonortiz55 · Sep 15, 2014

Taco Dan said: ↑

So why not rotate the outlet covers 180 degrees so the hinge is up top, they will flip up instead of down, making them less likely to break when your grabbing at stuff in the middle? still readable, the print is not necessarily upside down.
Click to expand...

The plastic surround for the outlet covers is designed to have them open that way. I tried flipping them also.

ramonortiz55 · Sep 15, 2014

yota243 said: ↑

condensation from drinks not an issue there? i'd be kinda leery about moisture getting in there
Click to expand...

x2

AaronArf · Sep 15, 2014

yota243 said: ↑

condensation from drinks not an issue there? i'd be kinda leery about moisture getting in there
Click to expand...

Blue Sea water resistant USB outlet. I have had one exposed to the elements in the bed for the past 6 months, works flawless and has seen far more than any condensation you can throw at it.

Rattlecanpaint · Sep 28, 2014

I hate to burst everyone's bubble here but all you need to get the power outlets out is a right angle pick. Open the door and look inside. You'll see a little black square hole on the bottom inside. There's one at the top too. Reach behind the outlet in the dash. (You may have to take the AC control panel out to do so) and push on the connector of the outlet. At the same time use the pick to push in the little black hole at the top and then the bottom and the socket will slide out of the sleeve. then once the socket is out far enough the sleeve will slide out too. No need to remove half the interior to do this.

BigE · Oct 16, 2014

So in order to install a rocker switch in the lower dash part, I have to go through all this crap and take apart half of my interior??

ramonortiz55 · Oct 27, 2014

BigE said: ↑

So in order to install a rocker switch in the lower dash part, I have to go through all this crap and take apart half of my interior??
Click to expand...

No. That was just to remove the outlets.

-dustin · Oct 19, 2015

HOLY SHIT. I had to take a nap half-way through that first post. I'm gonna go tape those things shut now so that they never get used and/ or broken.

stbear · Oct 19, 2015

Nice write up. If my outlet cap breaks I'll just leave it broken as I am mechanically retarded.

TRD2010SpeedwayBlue · Nov 10, 2015

good write up.
i already have my switch for usb in the hole where the blank was.
im looking to wire it to the fuse box. is there anyway to run these wires so i dont have to take all the panels out?

ramonortiz55 · Nov 10, 2015

TRD2010SpeedwayBlue said: ↑

good write up.
i already have my switch for usb in the hole where the blank was.
im looking to wire it to the fuse box. is there anyway to run these wires so i dont have to take all the panels out?
Click to expand...

i stuck a hanger thru the switch blank hole..fished it to come out in the area where the gas pedal is at.. them taped a wire to the hanger and voila!

after that i just made sure the wire was out of the way from the gas pedal. then ran it thru the firewall to my auxiliary power source

Texas50 · Nov 29, 2015

stbear said: ↑

Nice write up. If my outlet cap breaks I'll just leave it broken as I am mechanically retarded.
Click to expand...

I am as well... if mine ever breaks I will just have to trade the truck in.

Nice write up OP.

erik530195 · Aug 13, 2016

Both my sleeves broke off long ago. I think I will leave them alone...

Nocode3738 · Sep 5, 2016

I was interested in installing this http://www.ebay.com/itm/361537698772?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT and was about to shut it down after needing take apart my entire dash, but now...... i'm going to try and just pop out one of the existing 12v's in the lower dash and only have to maybe drill a little bigger and or change the cable tips using the same wires. Maybe a little glue to hold it in so i don't have to remove everything just to screw the back on to the new power port. Powered while key on works good.

JUST ran across these on Amazon. Thinking i could pop a blank out next to the 2 12v's and pull wires off then feed one of these. And besides these, there are many more on amazon that "should" pop right into one of the blank spots. Wouldn't mind having one DEAD 12v to have this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...d-3035-4a40-b691-0eefb1a18396&pf_rd_i=desktop

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...d-3035-4a40-b691-0eefb1a18396&pf_rd_i=desktop

E-Bro New 12-24V Car Dual USB Port Adapter Charger Cell Phone PDA DVR Input for Toyota

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...d-3035-4a40-b691-0eefb1a18396&pf_rd_i=desktop

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...d-3035-4a40-b691-0eefb1a18396&pf_rd_i=desktop

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...d-3035-4a40-b691-0eefb1a18396&pf_rd_i=desktop

DAL350B · Dec 30, 2016

I just installed a new Pioneer Deck and I wanted to add a new HDMI / USB port to the lower part of my dash. After seeing this thread however, I was a little intimidated! But luckily, with having my stereo removed, I was able to remove 1 12 volt receptacle and replace it with this...

USB HDMI Mount Cable – Rerii 1 Meter 3ft USB and HDMI Extension Flush, Dash, Panel Mount Cable, for Car, Boat, Motorcycle and More

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VAJ76SE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The 12v receptacle has 2 pins on it that need to be pushed out. I used a small screw driver, but almost anything would work.

This is one of the small openings you need to push a clip out of. There is an identical opening on the opposite side. Once you push on the pins, the (silver) metal insert will slide right out of the dash. I was able to fit my hand behind the 12v adaptor and help push it out.

I did not remove the stock wiring adaptor, instead I just left it alone and installed my new HDMI adaptor. My thought was if I wanted to ever switch back to stock, I wanted to be able to do that. Unfortunately the new adaptor is 1/8" larger in diameter and I needed to use a Dremel to enlarge the opening. I went slow and was very careful to only enlarge it a tiny bit so that I would still be able to switch back to my stock 12v adaptor.

Once I enlarged the opening, I threaded the cables from the front of the dash to the back. It consists of 1 USB and 1 HDMI cable.

To secure the new adaptor in place, there are 2 nuts that thread on the back. One is larger than the other and it is TOO large to fit in the small space. I used the smaller nut first, then the larger nut which seems to work great.

Here is the finished product.

Hopefully this is helpful! This method of repair would totally work if you wanted to replace the cap on your 12v receptacle also.

ramonortiz55 · Dec 30, 2016

DAL350B said: ↑

I just installed a new Pioneer Deck and I wanted to add a new HDMI / USB port to the lower part of my dash. After seeing this thread however, I was a little intimidated! But luckily, with having my stereo removed, I was able to remove 1 12 volt receptacle and replace it with this...

USB HDMI Mount Cable – Rerii 1 Meter 3ft USB and HDMI Extension Flush, Dash, Panel Mount Cable, for Car, Boat, Motorcycle and More

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VAJ76SE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The 12v receptacle has 2 pins on it that need to be pushed out. I used a small screw driver, but almost anything would work.

This is one of the small openings you need to push a clip out of. There is an identical opening on the opposite side. Once you push on the pins, the (silver) metal insert will slide right out of the dash. I was able to fit my hand behind the 12v adaptor and help push it out.

I did not remove the stock wiring adaptor, instead I just left it alone and installed my new HDMI adaptor. My thought was if I wanted to ever switch back to stock, I wanted to be able to do that. Unfortunately the new adaptor is 1/8" larger in diameter and I needed to use a Dremel to enlarge the opening. I went slow and was very careful to only enlarge it a tiny bit so that I would still be able to switch back to my stock 12v adaptor.

Once I enlarged the opening, I threaded the cables from the front of the dash to the back. It consists of 1 USB and 1 HDMI cable.

To secure the new adaptor in place, there are 2 nuts that thread on the back. One is larger than the other and it is TOO large to fit in the small space. I used the smaller nut first, then the larger nut which seems to work great.

Here is the finished product.

Hopefully this is helpful! This method of repair would totally work if you wanted to replace the cap on your 12v receptacle also.
Click to expand...

This looks good! Thanks for the tip!

TXpro4X4 · Dec 30, 2016

ramonortiz55[OP] initial post: ↑

There was two things I wanted to do in mod 2:

1. The lid broke off my power point below the AC controls. I have this OCD to where I have to have everything clean and original in my truck.

Picture 1:

Therefore I went to my local Toyota dealership and purchased a new power point sleeve.

Picture 2:

2. I wanted to install a power point in my center console and have it look nice and clean.

My 2003 Toyota Camry has a self closing power point in the center console.

So what I did is I purchased the power point assembly from a local junk yard and decided to install it in my 2013 Tacoma.

While removing the power point assembly from the Camry in the junk yard, I broke the sleeve, so I went ahead and ordered one from my local Toyota dealership:

This was the part number:

Picture 3 and 4:

Ok, now the destruction begins!

I went ahead and opened up my center console and emptied all the junk out. I pulled out the little mat at the bottom, and using a 10MM socket and ratchet I undid the two bolts that were at the bottom.

Once I did this, I pulled out the cup holder that is closer to the AC controls. It's in there pretty tight, but I pulled on it hard enough for it to come out. Its set in there with four clips.

Picture 5.

At this point, I was able to stick my hand down there and pop out the plastic cover that has the other cup holder directly in front of the center console. (Remember to unscrew the shift knob)

After this, I pulled out the center console housing by removing two little black screws (seen as empty screw holes in picture 6). Then I removed the screws that hold the shifter housing to the shifter assembly (pointing with my finger).

Picture 6.

This section now pulls out and the center area will look like this.

Picture 7.

I then proceeded to pop out the AC controls.

I did this by using a butter knife with the tip wrapped in tape to prevent scratching the trim. I stuck it right at a corner and popped the AC controls out.

Pictures 8 and 9.

There are two plugs behind the AC controls, these come out with ease.

Once this was done, I had to pop out the radio head unit. YES. the radio head unit.

I did this by removing four 10MM bolts under the unit.

Picture 10.

Now in order for me to remove the center console that holds the power points below the AC controls, I have to remove the radio head unit face plate.

That comes out by taking the following steps.

I popped out the driver's door bottom plastic foot plate. This is not held down by screws, so I used a small screw driver to start it and once it popped off, I used my fingers.

Picture 11.

I then popped off the foot rest at the bottom. This goes out by pulling outwards. No screws, just clips.

Picture 12.

I then proceeded to remove the rubber screw cap that is revealed after pulling out the foot rest (see picture 12).

This allowed me to remove the side panel, which is also held down by a few clips.

Picture 13.

Once I removed this side panel, I was able to take out a 10MM bolt (see picture 13 for location).

I then pulled out the following two trays. These trays pull straight out.

Picture 14 and 15.

Next step is to remove the bottom cover. This cover is held down by the 2 10 MM bolts, the first one was removed in picture 13 and the second one will be removed in picture 16.

Picture 16

After this bolt was removed, I carefully unplugged the switches to the left of the steering wheel (mirror controls, hood lever, etc)

Picture 17

Once the bottom cover was out of the way I needed to remove a black metal bracket that wraps around the steering wheel and is held down with 3 10MM bolts.

Picture 18

Now I needed to remove the cover for the instrument panel.

This was done by locating two push clips

Picture 19

The center of these push clips must be pressed by a thin screwdriver.

Once they push in, I was able to pull them out.

Picture 20
The push clips come out like this

The push clips must be separated like this to go back in later.

Picture 21

Once the push pins are out, I pulled out the instrument panel cover slightly, just enough to be able to pull out the head unit faceplate.

Picture 22

oooo were not done yet.

Now we need to remove the glove compartment.

This is done by removing the plastic "shock absorber" (shown in picture 23) and pulling the glove compartment straight out. Remember to push the ends at the inner top to "release it" (picture 24).

Picture 23

Picture 24

After the glove compartment is set aside, I am able to FINALLY pull the head unit faceplate out! This is being held down by clips only.

Picture 25

Picture 26

Finally, I was able to remove the console below the AC controls!

Remove 10 MM bolt to the right of the center console below the AC controls.

This will be visible after removing the glove compartment.

Picture 27

At this point, I was able to pull out the center console below the AC controls, this was finally held down by clips, and wiring to the power points and USB connector.

Picture 28

Picture 29

So I took the set up inside the house and worked on it.

It took awhile, but I was able to pull out the cig lighter out of it, and then the sleeve popped right out.

Picture 30 , 31 , 32, 33

Now part 1 of this mod is complete!

Now I went and located the center console and the materials for the last part of this mod.

Picture 34

I located a spot where I wanted the power point at and used a 15/15" spade bit to drill a hole.

Picture 35

I then used a box cutter knife to cut out the "notch" in the cig lighter sleeve.

Once this was done, I dropped in the sleeve (I had to trim the hole a bit more with the spade bit and clean it with the box cutter knife).

Picture 36

Picture 37

And again, it has a self closing lid!

Picture 38

I then wired connectors to the bottom wires.

Picture 39

Trimmed the small mat to fit around the power point lid

Picture 40

and finally attached connectors (blue connector tips) to the end of wiring that I had previously routed for this project. I ran two wires from my blue sea box, one positive, one ground. Ran them thru the firewall grommet and down to the center console area. Used a 10 amp red fuse, the last one towards the front of the truck. Just make sure you get the polarity right on the wiring or it won't work. The cigarette plugs are not reverse polarity.

Picture 41

Picture 42

Picture 43

Click to expand...

I am jealous. If i had done this i would of had to wipe everything down because all the fine dirt and dust from the adventures, would have cakes everything and beige color dust in all those crevices coves grills and whatnot
I did thisNot exactly I want what I wanted as far as Aesthetics is concerned but it's very very convenient and it serves its purpose very well

clcoyle · Aug 8, 2017

Great write-up and photo documentation. I used it to replace my Aux Jack. Thanks for taking the time to post the removal procedures.

ramonortiz55 · Aug 8, 2017

clcoyle said: ↑

Great write-up and photo documentation. I used it to replace my Aux Jack. Thanks for taking the time to post the removal procedures.
Click to expand...

you welcome!

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