All components for 6" lift purchased.. I think?

Hey everyone,

So I have been researching like crazy for all the needed parts for 6" lift. I own a 09 Prerunner with stock rims and 265/75/16 tires. After a very nice commission check I am able to get the parts! Here is what I have purchased so far, plan on taking a weekend to install them... Anyone in my area interested in coming over and helping me?? Beer and food will be provided! I plan on getting an alignment after install, as well. I just want to know if I missed anything? Bigger Tires and rims are in the near future.

Front
Maxtrac Spindles
Toytec Coilovers for the front (set to 2")

Rear
All Pro Leaf Pack 3"
1.5" Block and extended Ubolts


Extended Brake lines
1.25 Hub Centric Spacers

Also as I have seen the usual FAQ's...

Yes this lift is to compensate for something.
I just like high trucks.
The truck is a DD with the occasional dirt road and mud hole...

 

Nice your truck is gunna look sweet.

 

Scrap the 2 inch block in the rear for a 1 inch. You may find that you don't need one at all.

 

Wouldn't that potentially give me a "Bro" lean? I have a shortbed, not sure if that matters? Thanks for the help...

 

The rear already sits about 2 inches higher than the front, if you get a full 6 out front, you will be close to level, maybe needing a 1 inch block. Blocks aren't great, the smaller - the better.

 

Ok thanks for the heads up, had not bought the block yet luckily that was one I was hesitating on since I have seen so much bad about them... Will wait and see how it sits with just the all pro leaf kit, if I get a flip kit will that add height? Thought I read that somewhere??

 

Shackle flip will give lift, yes.

 

If possible (budget allowing) go for custom rear leaf springs to the desired height. Then you don't need blocks, and they'll ride beautifully. Great time to do a ubolt flip while you have it torn apart. ATO Shackle flip is good for ~3/4" lift

You could unload the allpros locally probably for near what you paid. Also gonna need some extended rear stainless lines, especially if you do a flip. The spindle lift comes with fronts already?

Might not need the LR UCA's either...
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-builds/218338-yotamatts-2012-taco-build.html

 

you will have bro lean with only the 3 inch pack, just go for the 1 inch block the 1st install, ya ppl here will bitch and whine about blocks but you need it and it won't hurt anything, its only an inch

 

Gonna look killer when it's done.. I would switch the 2 inch block for a 1 incher.. It would be more even at 6" in the front and 4" in the rear.. That's how mine is and it sits perfect.. I have a different setup though.

 

You probably won't need the 2" block if your going for the leveled look. A 1" will probably do good but me personally I would go with the 1.5 due to the fact it has a taper to it and the 1" doesn't. Def would do the extended brake lines in the back.

On the front instead of cranking your coilovers to 2" what is another option is get some 5100's and a set of ome 884's which will give you the 2" you need.

Also you might want to look at a driveshaft spacer and a cb drop mount.

beefed taco sells some good ones and on driveshaft spacer
http://stores.streetacos.com/-strse-1/carrier-bearing-driveshaft-vibration/Detail.bok

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/DriveshaftSpacer.shtml#Note3

 

Custom Leaf pack was out of budget, if I flip it and it adds 3/4" that should come close to even right? Not sure what the benefits of the flip is other than avoiding a block... I have read different responses about the UCA's still on the fence about that too, just don't want issues down the road...

 

Sounds alot better than the 2" block...

 

What is the deal with the spacers and drop mount's? I know nothing about these

I thought about the billies and 885's originally but wanted to go with coilovers for easier install

the 1.5 compared to the 1 block seems better but what does the lack of a taper do to the truck?

 

Since you will be lifting the truck 4 inches in the rear the driveshaft will pull out a lil from the transmission. The spacer mounts to the flange where the driveshaft meets the rearend putting the driveshaft where it should be.

Carrier bearing drop bracket is just that to help keep your driveshaft angles in check and avoid vibrations.

The taper on block will also help in your driveshaft angles versus a flat block.

I am attaching pics of the the driveshaft at the transmission so where you can see where it should be and where it will end up w/o the spacer. Also where the spacer would mount and a picture of the cb drop bracket installed.

 

Holy shit! How did I not know about this... I'm a total noob. Thank you for the gift of knowledge wise sir! Will look into these today.

 

Do a 2" block with the 3" pack I have the expo pack and I added a 1" block to get it level

 

Not a problem. You can get the driveshaft spacer after your lift is installed that way you can measure the distance and see which thickness you will need. You will probably need the 1" driveshaft spacer. I run the 1.25 spacer on mine with no problems at all.

 

You could also hold on the UCAs pending your alignment numbers.

 

Ok so I should hold off on the UCA's take it in for an alignment and if they can't get it aligned... buy the UCA's? Sounds good to me I thought I read somewhere that the larger tires will rub on stock uca's or something... So just alignment issues is all lr uca's will fix?