Rear shocks for 2" lift

Spacing out and or extending the brake lines is not a huge issue. You could literally unholy the bracket retaining the lines and add some sort of spacer in between, grab a longer bolt and tie it all back in. I like having max allowable stock drop on mine though I do know that ultimately the maximum drop that stock can do, with the right shock setup (would require a major shock relocation) is 12".

Running a larger bump stop is no big deal. Like my picture shows above just get a GM Silverado bump stop. They are 4" tall stock, allows you to do on frame mounting, allows you .5" of additional shimming with the correct size fender washers and nylock nut and can also get you an additional 1/4" of spacing for a max bump stop height of 4.75" with the All Pro U-bolt flip kit.

 

None of them are huge issues but they're still things you need to think about before throwing a taller shock on the rear. End of the day, it's only money, right?

 

I will be going with a 10" travel shock. At full droop will I need extended brake lines?

 

EXACTLY!

lol but in all seriousness though just due to the given time this platform and generation truck has been out there is a plethora of information on this forum both old and recent on what to do as far as lifting goes. This OP is more then good to go on the I info side. Now it's time to apply it to his truck!

You may do that if you'd like, with my 10" shocks, all I did was put a spacer underneath the bracket and above the axle mounting point, coupled with a larger bolt. A 1/4" of extra slack will do.

 

Can you post pics of where you installed the spacers

 

I sure can. Bear in mind those bumps mount on via a central stud that is is above the bump. All I did was take several 1/4 thick fender washers and stack them on top of each other, run it through the frame hole which I had to drill then finally mate it to a nylock slim profile nut. I acquired all of the mounting hardware from a local ace.

I will post some better pics for the mounting setup later on in the day. I am at work right now

 

I get the idea of what you did for the breaker likeness spacer but what'd you use to do it? Other than the longer bolt obviously.. What'd you use for the spacer? Eventually I'd like to get steel braided lines but for now a spacer will do and I'm sure it'd be cheaper!

 

Not true for most situations - the shock is strong enough to take the weight of the rear axle, wheels, and the forces in the springs for the last bit of travel. Take a look at vehicles with rear coil springs (4Runner, FJ) - the shock is the droop limiter.

Of course better to run a longer shock, so you get all the suspension travel available.

I'm running Icon VS 2.0" shocks. They perform well off-road. I leave the shaft exposed and they've stood up to two salty winters without problems.

They are advertised for 0-2" of lift. I'm running TSB leafs (supposedly 1.5" lift over pre-TSB) and the shock has more travel than the leafs at full droop (i.e. I had to lever the shock rod end into the axle clevis with a pry bar).

Keep in mind a 2.5" remote-reservoir shock from a good brand like Icon, Fox or King is still no substitute for a long-travel setup.

 

It was like 235$ shipped from DSM.

Pretty good deal i think, i think the 0-1" IFP rear shocks are like 109$/a piece so the price increase was very subtle.

 

I don't think I need to go true long travel in the rear if I'm not gonna be doin it in the front right? I mean I know the advantages is super long travel (obviously) but the expense of it for the amount of wheeling I do I just can't justify it..

 

Def not looking to go LT, just want my shocks to ride as smooth as possible absorbing the bumps well yet being able to flex them out when off-road without issues.

 

Do you really want to know what I did? Lol you'll laugh at how simple it is. Take your longer bolt run it through the bracket first, then under the bracket put a washer, right under that washer, thread in a nut, then right under that nut one more washer, and right under that washer, thread in your bolt to the fastening point and tighten. Lol. That simple.

Agreed. while I do not totally agree with getting a shorter shock that doesn't allow full droop for a setup, it is not a big deal to max it out. It is maxing it while compressing where I will say 100% of the time that is unacceptable and dangerous of damage to the shock itself.

unless you are going to be a ultra hardcore offroader, I wouldn't invest the extra time and major modifications needed to run a LT setup. I thought about it myself and decided that for the money and time, not to mention the application I intend to use the truck for, it's way overkill. And might actually make me hate daily driving, due to the way it would ride.

 

^ that actually a great idea fort he spacer! Ya a little funny at how simple it is but that's why I asked.. The engineer in me that I get from my dad would incline me to come up with some sort of true spacer block that would have to be machined.. This is much easier, cheaper and faster!

And ya that's all exactly what I was thinkin for the LT setup.. Bt can the down travel on the shocks really take the weight of the rest of the rear? I've heard plenty of stories of people blowin shocks out cuz they "over-extended" them, basically ran a shock that was too short of the travel of the rest of the setup.. I know bottoming it out is bad but I thought really either direction was pretty risky??

 

like I said either way you wanna ideally get a shock they can handle both the down travel and the compression portion of travel and still have some slack left to absorb the hit.that's why I said do it once and do it right.

I actually had no ideas as far as to what to use for a spacer. I didn't want to go get a block machine because I found it to be a huge waste of money that's why I figured some sort of washer or even nut set up for spacing the two would work just as good, when I tried it I found that it worked perfectly for the intended use so I kept it and I haven't had not a single problem since then, it's perfect!

 

Ya ok cool! Have any of y'all had any experience with these shock extenders that toytec sells? For only $15 they seem like they coud be a perfect short term solution until I can afford new shocks..
http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com/Shock-Extenders-05-UP-Tacoma_p_288.html

 

Short term, they'll work but they effectively make your shocks longer without increasing the travel length. You might still need extended bump stops with them though.

 

Well the way I see it, I doing a block lift for now, so the bump stops have effectively been kept in the stock locations while moving the lower shock attachment down the 2". So the bumps should be fine and it seems like these little extentions would effectively allow the shocks to act as they normally would, I.e., they're stock travel length will still be effective here.. That all sound right?

 

I don't know about those man. Unless they are a substantially larger stem I would say if anything, all that is doing is actually taking away some of your ability to compress hits, which while extra downtravel is good, those seem to give, yet take away performance out of sticker shocks. That's just my opinion though.

 

Well if added to a stock setup without any lift I'd agree.. But in this case I've moved my axle and lower shock mount 2" away from the frame while leaving the bumps and all at the same location as stock.. So it seems to me that these would work..?

 

Honestly, as expensive as suspension components are, I'd save up, do it once and get it done the way you want it. Buying extra stuff that you know you won't want later on is wasted money in my opinion. Save up, get the AAL or replacement leaf pack, the correct height bump stops, proper length shocks and get it all done once and correctly. In the long run, you save money doing it that way.