Tacoma Rust Prevention Experiment

Anyone know if will wash off after cleaning the frame in a car wash I like to make sure I have no mud and grime packed into places and presure wash the hell out of it

 

If you read the last few pages on the raptor message board the fluid film beat everything when it came to saltwater. It just didn't fair very well in direct sunlight and heat. I think for most of us we us fluid film because of salted roads and it appears fluid film is much better for that. That being said I can tell that the fluid film I have applied has already wore off some in just about a month. It's still there but not nearly has thick as it used to be, I do drive gravel roads everywhere I go which might affect this as well.

 

Yep that's what I was wondering thanks

 

I did read the whole thread and saw that. He speculated that inside it did better than outside due to lack of heat and sun, but IIRC he said he wasn't sure. And I believe it did better inside than outside because the Florida rain washed off the FF while it was outside over time.

I have no plans to do enough tests that it needs to be run and crunched through SAS because every permutation is covered LOL, not looking for grant money. However I am in total agreement with DoorDing, I don't want to have to do this anymore than I have to. I drilled holes in my frame for my bolt on sliders and have to remove them (or feel I should if I am going to do it right) and want to minimize how much I have to do it. I want the product that provides the best protection too, no doubt about it. But I don't want to have to do it every 6 months to a year. At first I will no matter what I use but over time either CF3K or HDMP should have enough persistence that treatment should move to every 2 years or so.

I think FF works however it does wash off easier than most corrosion resistance compounds that I have tested so far. FF is much better than used motor oil or chain bar oil, proved that easy enough. Talked to the manager in town here that puts plows on most of the trucks around and also chemical treatment sprayers. He said those rigs get chewed up by salt in just a few years. And the best thing he has seen is in the spring to hit the underside with a pressure sprayer as thoroughly as possible. Which is another step in the process I will be doing. High today was -7 F so rust doesn't always get a chance to work when it is this cold, and salt doesn't work so the State and County use sand for much of the winter. Parking in a heated garage? Don't think so even though I have one. A best practice approach is going to be required if I want to keep this thing for the next 20 years. At least that is my 2 cents worth

 

i was going to ask about using cosmoline, but i just read it begins melting at 125 degrees F

 

I will admit the amsoil hd looked to work really well. It seems a bit more involved, with having to let it cure. I'm impressed with how many people have used fluid film and said it was still on a year later, I don't think mine will last that long.

 

looks great, sort of like cosmoline.
I used Tectyl 185w, great results but will try this next

 

Does anyone know how long this stuff lasts before it needs to be recoated.

 

I also used to use Amsoil HDMP on my bike chain. Never gave it a second thought on anything else though. Great post OP. Got to go pick me some up.

 

Looks like great stuff. We have the same problem with salt here in VT. I have a couple of questions for TT.

1. did you apply this right before the winter or did you just treat it anytime? Summer, Fall? Spring?
2. I assume you either wash your truck at home or run it through a car wash like me in the winter several times as I get the undercarriage sprayed to get the salt off. Do you have to treat it several times or just one application last the winter and rinse and repeat in the spring?

Thanks! I will be buying this stuff for sure! Also looking for a solution to remove some surface rust that has started to show this year on my 2010 TRD Double Cab.

 

If you guys can get your hands on this stuff I highly recommend it, squadron I was in spent 9 month in the Persian gulf which is far more corrosive than any salt road and it held up great...works on all types of alloys and will not harm any rubber or electrical connections,

it is a dry film so you don't have the issue of any contaminants sticking to it

http://corrosionx.com/navguard_2.html

 

Was gonna post this link on the FB thread but you found it, cool.

 

Sure is pretty

 

Hey Ding just saw your post. I use Rhino Ramps and 4L too but just for the front end. Do you do the front then back off, move the ramps and back up onto them to do the back ? If so do you find an advantage to just doing the whole joy at once ? Thanks for any reply.

 

I was wondering how salt water would get into rocker panels and doors and if you guys treat them when you do your frame ?

 

Thanks for the reply. I'm a little slow - how exactly do you get it on ramps front and back at the same time ? Thanks.

 

put ramps in front of each tire and drive up (4x4 advised if wet).

I only have two ramps so I drive up my deck

 

Thanks for the reply. I'm a little slow but I got it now. I'm going to have to invest in another set of ramps - no deck that close to the ground. Just ordered my second set of ramps from Advanced Auto Parts. Use discount from TW thread. Thanks for the picture too. Looking forward to to working under my Tacoma with front and back up in the air.

 

I would never be under a car with rhino ramps at least a truck is tall enough if they give out. Way to many documented cases of them collapsing or forming cracks. You are typically one for safety and correct work methods.

 

Thanks for the additional info