Misc cap/topper/canopy ramblings

1. Installed cap, truck is now a rolling blind spot.
2. For added effect the lightest rain or mist forget about seeing out the back window. This turns truck into a box van! Make use of those outside rearview mirrors and backup camera! Rear window wiper/washer needs to be a "factory" option.
3. Immediate 1" drop on suspension (stock SR5) when dropping 200# cap on long bed. This may need to be addressed later.
4. Dog has plenty of room!
5. Hatch lock is, to use a cliché, for keeping honest people honest. Pathetic. For almost 2Gs that's the best mechanism Leer could come up with?
6. Just like everything else, cap is overpriced. But at least it's made in America. Quality looks OK, although already surface rust on hatch support hardware. Mine is black, so color match was not a problem.


Not for added security but for convenience, I installed a Pop&Lock cap/canopy/topper lock. I already had the power tailgate lock. So Pop&lock shipped the lock (which is a solenoid worth about $5.00, made in China), with cable ties that have no "lock" in them, and 3M conduit sticky stuff that won't stick to anything. Annoyances that I could deal with, but companies get away with this BS all the time. Luckily I have a supply of wire ties and cable routing that works well.


The convenience of hitting the key fob twice to unlock the tailgate and hatch is a beautiful thing. Worth the $200? Not sure. The tailgate lock should be a factory option.

 

X1 on this.

I'm milling a cap, just can't decide between hard or soft. There are advantages to both. My main factors are 1) to camp in the truck with topper, 2) to haul the dogs safely, & 3) to be able to store a few things somewhat safely.

So we'll see. Until I'm ready to purchase, I'll continue taking in the info on threads like these...

 

This drop is very dramatic with TRD off road. I just installed Wheeler's Off-road HD rear leafs because of this and it worked well as a solution. But adds to the total cost of owning the cap.

 

factory CAP/TOPPER option... I meant to say.


Of course this makes the install more complex, and most cap dealers probably don't want to be burdened with that. Running a dome light wire properly seems to be a challenge. Which is why I did my own wiring, running the dome light off the dome light circuit, not the parking lamp as so many described as "standard" on this forum.


But yeah, I'll need some convex mirror bubbles to reduce blind spots.


There are different options for latches with leer. Mostly they are for the different door types. The all glass door has a single handle that pulls two cables to unlock latches on either side. Even when locked, twist the handle and it puts enough pressure on the cable to unlatch. I've adjusted to reduce the effect, but it is easily defeated.


I went back and looked at the ARE cap they had on display. Seems slightly more well designed.