Enlighten me on alignment

Long story short, truck was in an accident dec 16th, the autobody shop told me it was ready last friday but ended up feeling wrong and had apparently my axle was about to go. Took it back immediately and they found my front diff was bent on top of that, they call today to come get it as their office closed. The truck ended up getting a new passenger side axle and they did the ball joints as well. The new diff and they left their alignment sheet on my dash, is it just me or is this totally wrong? My steering wheel has to be held on an angle for my truck to go straight and it feels funny at highway speeds, my tires rub really bad (they never did before) please tell me it could just be the alignment. I don't want to lose my truck for the 7th week in a row I have stock suspension, getting my lift done in 2 weeks

Here are the specs (picture still won't post properly) Link is here : http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=380785&nocache=1

 

The numbers don't seem bad to me. And your description sounds like it is likely much more then a simple alignment issue.

below I've put some specs and you can see the allowable variances.

I don't have the numbers for your double-cab, but for the access cab 4x4 I have (a 2007) the manufacturer specs say:

Caster angle can range from +1.03 degrees to +1.53 degrees.
Best caster setting being +0.78 degrees with a cross tolerance of 0.5 degrees.

Camber angle can range from -0.21 degrees to +1.29 degrees.
Best setting being +0.54 with a cross-tolerance of 0.5 degrees.

Toe-in can range from -0.07 degrees to +0.25 degrees.
Best setting is +0.09 degrees.

SAI should be set at +11.9 degrees, with a variance of 0.8 degrees.

Best turning angle is 40.3/35.9 degrees, with a variance of 1.5 degrees.

 

If it's pulling like you say, something is off. It's extremely easy to bullshit the alignment numbers. If it's rubbing and not driving straight, there is a problem. I doe are what those numbers say. I've worked on dozens of accident vehicles. I used to diagnose the bent parts, install, then do the alignment. Trust your gut. If it ain't right it ain't right

 

Need to take it back. It is not fixed right, imo. If it didn't rub before and does now, something is still not straight.

 

sub'd

 

when you get it sorted out, you want your caster to be around 2.5 when lifted, or you will have more complaints..


it sounds like you still have some work to be done to the front end parts...


bummer, you are probably going to be without your truck again...

 

I would get it aligned again. Your camber is negative on the left and positive on the right. They both should be positive or negative. Right now you have the top of one tire tilted in and other is tilted out.

 

Yep, you got one degree of cross camber. I'd be curious why that was not corrected because it should have been an easy fix, that is unless something is bent. Don't accept this truck until that's corrected.

 

For what its worth, you can check your toe-in with a string line. Just set it up by taping the line to the back of your rear tire's tread (or tie it to your rear axle) and pull it tight up to your front wheel. Run the line down the center of the wheels. As you pull the string in towards the vehicle, use line of sight to determine whether the front or back of your front tire touches first. Basically, your front sidewalls should be in line with your rear sidewalls, and a string line is surprisingly telling if this is the case or not. It takes a good eye, but it works.