Clunk/Creak after lift install...help

I've searched and read through 3 years of similar threads but I can't seem to find a solution to my problem.

'14 DCLB Sport

Installed 5100 shocks (at zero), OME 885 coils, AALs and Spidertrax wheel spacers 2 nights ago in the garage.

Now, I've got this clunking/creaking sound coming from the front end when I hit bumps. 95% sure its coming from the driver's side.

Things I've checked/confirmed so far:

Torque on everything I took apart
Clearance between driver's side spring/perch and sway bar
Looked for anything out of ordinary
Had it aligned (still making noise)

Any ideas? I'm at a loss here.

 

Wish I could help you browski. I have the same setup plus 1/4 inch spacer for taco lean minus the spacers. No issues here.

 

Coil springs sitting right in the plate? First thing that comes to my mind as it's something commonly done wrong by accident... After that, anyone with this type lift still running a sway have similar issues? I'm trying to think of the parts that actually move upfront any could bind on a bump... Rose are my first two thoughts

 

I had to get sway bar relocates because my 885's were contacting the sway bar

 

I have not had this issue.

 

There is another thread about ice build up and causing weird noises.
I have ice build up and am tired of going through car wash every time.

Check the link
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...een-rocker-panel-front-wheel-wheel-frame.html

 

Yeah, I've got the taco lean 1/4" spacer too. Forgot to mention that.

Coils are sitting right as far as I could tell (bottom coil in notch and flat coils up top). There's no correct orientation as far as spinning around, right?

Was thinking the same thing this morning. Called Toytec earlier and having them overnight me some relocation brackets just in case but I really don't think that's the issue. I checked and even taped the sway bar to look for scuffs but nothing.

She's been sleeping in the garage, so don't think that's the problem.



Thanks fellas.

 

As long as you are checking tape for scuffs in one spot, put tape in several spots, and see if you can determine a more specific location by that.

Maybe have a friend ride with you and stop at a mall or someplace with speed bumps, have him/her get out of truck and listen from both sides as you hit the bump and listen for any distinct difference between the sides and maybe even see about hearing roughly the vertical level of clunk.

 

Good idea. I'll try taping everything. I also tried walking next to the truck while my wife drove over a bump about 20 times but I just can't pinpoint it.

 

Did you see Brady's (haslefre) response in the other thread? Solution was to get inner tube and cut it to pieces put it between all the metal parts for the top plate spacer.

I don't know how wide of tubing you would want but you can go by any bicycle shop and pick up tubes there that aren't outrageously priced. Cut them up with scissors and install as needed.

 

Yeah, we've been PM'ing. He seams pretty convinced it's the 1/4" spacer. I just don't know if even at the harshest bump, that it could move enough to create such a sound.

Plus it seams to creak as the suspension is compressing, which would put even more pressure on that spacer...it's pretty tight! Not ruling it out though.

This is driving me nuts!

 

I would look and see if the shock mount on top is or going up too far when it compresses and giving you a space between the top shock mount and the shock stud up top. I ended up having to put spacers to keep from getting a gap between there and causing a clunk everytime I went over bumps.

 

Anything hitting your UCAs?

 

The FSM does specify the orientation of the shock tower (as if you were looking from the sky to the ground). Not sure if it makes any difference, but there's your trivia for the day.

I had a clunk at one point which was due to worn out bushings on the LCA, but I only experienced it during low speed cornering (like into a parking spot).

Note that you can remove the sway bar to test things out. DO NOT LEAVE IT IN AND DISCONNECTED - EITHER TOTALLY IN OR TOTALLY OUT! Mine's been hung up in the garage for the past several years.

 

I say take off the sway bar to start. I have had similar problems. When I took off my sway bar it took a lot of the noise away, but I think I have the LCA bushing issue as well. Just waiting to see if I am going to replace the bushing in the LCA's, or just ditch it and go with all new LCA's. Anyway, start with the sway bar for sure, and I'd leave it off. Unless you are conering at 80+ you don't need it.

 

I did tighten down the top shocks until I ran out of threads. However, the bushing looks about right (expansion-wise) when compared to how the factory tightened it.

It doesn't look like it. I don't see any marks and I don't see any clearance issues.

I just noticed the orientation picture in the FSM. I may end up spinning the coil to match the picture if my next trick doesn't work.

I don't think its a bushing issue as the truck only has 900 miles on it.

I'm waiting for FedEx to bring me my sway relocation brackets and I'll get them in tonight and take it for a spin. I'm a little reluctant to remove the sway bar completely as it is my DD. I'll do a little more research on it.



Thanks for all your help guys! I REALLY appreciate it.

 

Unless you drive your truck like a racecar, you don't have to worry about sway bar. The sway bar helps to keep the frame from flexing as much in turns, but remember that there is still a lot of metal holding one side of the frame to the other. Some guys pull their sway bar out to get a tiny bit more flex out of their trucks.

 

Well, I'm (somewhat) happy to report that the sway bar relocate got rid of the "Clunk" but I still have the "Creak".

I took it out for a spin and was happy when I left my driveway hump with no noise. Then I turned aggressively left and right and still no noise. I headed over to an area with some ruts and small drops off the shoulders of the road (6") and I'm still getting the creaking noise.

I can drive around town without it making any noise at all, so that's a good start. However, before I do any wheeling, I'm going to have to sort this out.

I think my next step is going to be to take the coils off, insulate the driver's side 1/4" spacer with some rubber gasket material, and orientate the coils as per the FSM (almost 180* from where I have them sitting now). Not sure if that will make a difference but I've gotta try.

 

From experience... And everyone else feel free to jump on me on this if you wish... If you plan to wheel the truck, don't worry so much about the little "creeks". My leafs squeek like hell but I. Know it's cuz there's some mud/dirt in there and it's pointless to get it out.. The next time I hit the trail it'll be there again.

From the sounds of things you took care oft he major issues, I'd just enjoy the ride at this point!

Also, you mentioned being worried about removing the sway bar completely on a DD truck. I took mine off a little over a month ago now and have been lovin it ever sense! I get that little extra flex off-road and noticed alsmot no difference on-road. If you're crushing at about 5-15 mph and rally throw the wheel side to side, you can feel that body roll, same as at high way speeds with quick menuvers but it's not enough to make me feel unsafe, just know you're truck. To each there own but I say ditch it!

 

I had the same problem after my OME install. Really noticeable when going over speed bumps.
I bought a sway bar relocation kit.
Took care of the problem right away.
I ordered it from Sierra Expeditions.