Bleeding the clutch on a 6sp 2nd gen

I can't seem to find a how-to on bleeding a 2nd gen clutch. Anybody have a link or information? Thanks.

 

Has anybody done this?

 

There should be a slave cylinder on the transmission.

 

Found this should be some help

Watch "2006 Toyota Tacoma 4.0L X-Runner Clutch Installation" on YouTube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJBXW65Q2FU&feature=youtube_gdata_player

 

I did mine the same as bleeding brakes. Have someone pump the pedal a few times, hold it down and you loosen the bleeder and then tighten. Repeat till no more air comes out. Fill reservoir.

 

Thanks.

 

I know this is an old post but it just happened to me. Call me a noob or an idiot but I thought I would save someone some serious trouble. I read all the comments about getting a bad unit out of the box, so I returned two of them and bought a pump. The problem was much more simple but maybe not obvious to an inexperienced person.

The brake master cylinder has a divider. The front section holds fluid for the clutch master cylinder. When you remove the cylinder it will drain completely, but again if you are not familiar with this it will still appear to be full since the brake half is still full. Put more brake fluid in until the front side fills up. Then keep refilling until you are done bleeding.

Also note that the cylinder instructions state to not fully adjust the rod out because it may move too far and block the inlet. Therefore you will not get any fluid into the cylinder.

Hope this helps someone as oblivious as I was.

 

don’t know what you mean by rod. I know clutch master at the pedal is adjustable rod. For my CM HydroTOB I believe instructions state set the bite to 50% travel.

regardless of that with a motive pressure bleeder you just pressurize it and open the bleeder under the truck.

 

Yes, there is an adjustable rod that connects the clutch master cylinder to the clutch pedal. But the main point was not to let the brake master cylinder drain empty, as I did. There isn't a pump, no matter how fancy, that will fix that problem. From what everyone else says, you don't even need a pump if you don't do what I did.

 

Dealer and factory tool is probably pump. I’ve done what you’ve done. Pump fixed it. It’s $60.
You wanna hit 10-30psi with constant pressure and supply of fluid? Pump.
One man job. No limit to fluid on how much you want provided you have enough and keep it full.

optional depending on condition and vehicle is techstream to engage ABS.

you can probably crack lines at ABS and bleed with pump too.

 

I don't think you are understanding my point. The post was simply to make people aware that the reservoir is divided and it may still look like it's full if you don't know better.

A pump will certainly make the job easier but it is not necessary. Thanks.

 

a pump fills it higher than the cap. Doesn’t matter if it’s one, divided in 2, or divided in Wu Tang 36 Chambers.

 

Not sure why anyone would want to fill it higher than the cap. I certainly don't need corrosive brake fluid running out all over my engine compartment. And I don't need to ensure all Wu Tang 36 Chambers are full. (whatever that's supposed to mean) I just want the one chamber that feeds the clutch master cylinder to be full. A visual check and a can of brake fluid will do that...That's my only point to someone that isn't a mechanic and doesn't want to spend more on a tool than the part they are replacing. Especially when it is not necessary.

Like I said, a pump may be helpful although it is an unnecessary expense for someone that might need to do this once in a lifetime. But if by conceding that using a pump is the best and only way to do the job, and it will get you to stop replying, by all means! Everyone do not attempt this job without a pump! ‍

 

Fill beyond the cap is to supply fluid and not air. It is in the hose.

Flush is not once. It is every one or two years.

$60 is not an expense on a said to be overpriced truck saving money DIYing. Or borrowing one for free.

 

Had to replace the clutch master and slave on my Supra recently and find this video on doing a 1-person bleed. Most useful video for bleeding a clutch that I've come across. Should apply to the Tacoma too although it might look a little different (my slave was hidden under an access panel that needed removal to access).

How To: Bleed Clutch System (youtube.com)

 

So by the word "cap" I am going to assume you mean CAPACITY (or the MAX FILL line), and not the open brake master cylinder fill cap or lid.

I will also admit that when you said motive pump, I thought you were referring to a vacuum pump. Now that I have researched how a motive pump works, I would agree this is certainly the ideal way of doing it. I was not aware that there is a pump that pressure fills it from the top side. That's all you originally needed to say.

Not sure what all the other references about CM HydroTOB, ABS & Techstream, required PSI, dealer and factory tools, etc. are supposed to mean (and I am not asking for an explanation)....Again, it's all just over complicating a very simple message. Don't let the clutch side of the brake master cylinder reservoir run dry.

And I will stick to my original point, that a pump (motive or vacuum) is not necessary if you just fill the reservoir by sight. And yes, considering I would guesstimate 99% of all people never open their brake lines themselves, it would be considered an unnecessary expense. I am not condoning other individuals maintenance practices. I'm simply stating what most people do with their vehicles. Thanks!

 

That was a really good video and I did watch it before I started. Unfortunately, since that vehicle had its own reservoir for the clutch and did not share the brake master cylinder, it did not highlight the point I was trying to make. All the other parts were pretty straightforward and helpful. Thanks!

 

Hell Yeah Brother

 

My Supra has that same setup with a standalone clutch master cylinder and this vid worked great for me to show me a new way to bleed it by myself. I replaced the master, slave and upgraded to an SS brake line and had no issues bleeding with this method. It shouldn't matter what type of master you have as the bleed process will be the same. But in general, you do not want to bleed so much that the clutch master gets empty. I usually top it off after every 3-4 cracks of the bleed screw. No reason not to top it off higher than the indicated full level during the bleed process as well. I also have a vacuum bleeder but tend not to pull more than 10psi to help extend the life of my seals. Read that some time ago and have stuck with it and it's served me well.

I can't tell if you got your issue figured out Kssooner, but hope you did, and hope that my link helps future people that come across this thread. It's really simple to do alone